Davey Silensor Benutzerhandbuch

Silensor Pool Pump

SERVICING INSTRUCTIONS

Warning!

• All work should only be carried out by qualied persons.

• Davey products recommend that all installations are tted with earth

leakage or residual current protection devices.

• The ttings on this product are constructed of ABS. Some PVC

jointing compounds are incompatible with ABS - check suitability

before use.

• Barrel unions need to be hand tightened. No sealant, glues, or

silicones are required.

For all other trouble shooting and warnings please refer to the Silensor

installation and operating instructions supplied with each pump or contact

the Davey customer service centre on 1300 2 DAVEY (1300 232 839).

Tools Required

Ring spanner 13mm

Davey Small Silensor spanner - Part number 13810-1SP

Davey Large Silensor spanner - Part number 13810SP

Davey bearing tools - Part number 48678

Davey Silensor bearing tool - Part number 48678-6

Bearing Press

Soft head mallet

Flat blade screwdriver (6mm - 12mm blade)

Allen key 10mm

Heat gun

Note Wiring

Position

Capacitor Housing

Unscrew the bolt from the rear cover using a ring spanner

(13mm) and remove the cover. Note that it has a gasket

on the inside. Check for damage and replace if necessary.

Remove the capacitor from its housing. Take note of the

connections and then remove from motor.

Warning! Care should be taken when handling capacitors.

Remove the oating neck ring from the impeller and with

a at blade screw driver break the plastic tab blocking the

impeller nut.

1. 2.

Tap the pump foot towards the rear with a soft head

mallet. This makes it easier to unscrew the locking nut

using the large Silensor spanner (part 13810SP). If the

spanner is tight hit the spanner with a sharp tap of the

mallet to free up the nut.

Disassembly

Procedure

Disassembly

Procedure

Rear Cover

Balance

Drum Ring

Mechanical

Seal

Hold the front of the motor and gently tap the foot to slide

off the outer casing and expose the rubber bafe.

7. 8.

9. 10.

Using a at blade screwdriver in the slot at the rear of the

motor to hold the rotor steady and an Allen key (10mm) in

the impeller nut unscrew the impeller in an anti-clockwise

direction.

The rubber bafe can be removed by peeling it off from

the split on the underside of the motor.

With the small Silensor spanner (Part 13810-1SP) undo

the locking nut at the rear of the motor and remove. You

might have to hit the spanner with a sharp tap of the

mallet to free up the nut.

Remove the power lead from the non drive end shield,

then tap the motor shaft with a soft head mallet to remove

the stator assembly from the casing.

Remove the mechanical seal & Myler Washer located

beneath the mechanical seal from the impeller. If the

unit is tted with a balance drum ring then remove it and

discard as it is no longer required. This was tted up to

serial number 07078-8046.

Myler

Washer

To remove the rotor and perform a bearing change

remove the slinger, O-ring and the front sealing ring in

that order.

With a heat gun, heat this area turning the stator shell so

as not to blister the paint. After approximately 2 minutes

you should be able to tap out the rotor or push it out using

the bearing press.

Remove both bearings from the rotor but only replace the

non drive end bearing.

With the aid of the new bearing tool place the other

bearing on top and place the tool under the bearing press.

12.

13. 14.

15.

Slide the stator and shell down over the bearing tool and

press it down until the bearing is seated correctly in the

stator shell.

16.

11.

Tap off the non drive end shield taking care not to damage

the wiring. Move the power cord out of its recess to a safe

position before proceeding to the next step.

Slinger

O-ring

Sealing Ring

Remove the stator and shell and turn upside down on the

small bearing tool then place back under the press. Insert

the rotor being careful of the windings and then press it

into the bearing with the press.

17.

Replace the front sealing ring, O-ring, and slinger. The

motor is now ready for reassembly.

The diffuser should be inside the front casing simply pull it

out and check for distortion and also check the O-ring that

is on the inside.

18.

19.

Note: The SLS front casing has a removable rubber ap

valve, the SLL has not.

20.

Fit the O-ring to the casing and then insert the

assembled stator and rotor into it with the motor leads at

approximately 1 o’clock to the slot at the bottom of the

casing.

Place the motor shaft down through a hole in the work

bench and stand the unit on end. Next replace the end

shield by bringing the stator wires through the slot in the

end shield while the other slot should line up with the cut

out in the casing.

Bring the power lead out through the bottom slot and

push it into the cut out in the casing thread now you

can replace the casing nut and tighten it with the small

Silensor spanner (part 13810-1SP).

Replace the large case nut and bring the power lead

through it .

1. 2.

3. 4.

Note: It is a good idea to

have a hole in the work

bench to be able to stand

all motors on end.

O-ring

Re-assembly

Procedure

Re-assembly

Procedure

Replace the rubber cover with the anged end down

and lock it into the slot in the casing with the power lead

running down the middle.

Slide the outer cover down over the assembly so that the

slot lines up with the slot in the casing and the power lead

comes through.

Place the mechanical seal back into position on the

impeller ensuring that the Myler Washer is located

beneath it.

Stand the assembly on its foot. Use a single drop of

Loctite 401 on the shaft, secure the shaft with a at

blade screw driver at the non drive end and screw on the

impeller by hand or with the aid of a 10mm Allen key in a

clockwise rotation. Do not over tighten.

Fit the diffuser complete with O-ring into the front casing

with the lug on the diffuser at the top.

5. 6.

9. 10.

Replace the oating neck ring on to the impeller and also

t the casing O-ring.

Myler

Washer

Mechanical

Seal

12.

13.

Use the large spanner to tighten the nut. Be aware that

there is a lug on the nut that should not nish at the top

as it can interfere with the barrel union on the SLS model

Tuck all wires into the capacitor cover and then t the rear

cover complete with gasket and tighten the bolt using a

ring spanner (13mm). The pump is now ready for water

testing.

With the pump facing you place the front casing against it

and turn the casing nut anti clockwise to lock it in. There

are two slots in the motor casing that the front casing

locks into.

11.

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