ELECRAFT KAF2 Bedienungsanleitung

Elecraft • www.elecraft.com • 831-662-8345

ELECRAF T KAF2

AUDI O F I LTE R a n d REAL - TI M E CL O CK

Assembly and Operating Instructions

Introduction

The KAF2 option supplements the K2's crystal filters with effective, low-noise audio filtering. It also adds

a real-time clock, allowing you to check the time or date with a tap of the K2's D I S P L A Y button.

Audio Filter

The KAF2 includes a passive, balanced low-pass filter (LPF) that is in-circuit at all times. It provides

significant attenuation of signals above 3 kHz, including hiss, high-pitched splatter, and carrier leak-

through. The LPF is particularly useful on quiet bands, when using headphones, or with small antennas.

Also included is a narrow, active band-pass filter for CW or data use. The center frequency of the filter is

tunable via two potentiometers. The A F I L switch on the K2 front panel selects either O F F (LPF only),

A F 1 (first CW filter stage), or A F 2 (both stages). The operator can choose to treat both CW filter stages as

a single setting (A F 2) by installing jumper W1.

Real-Time Clock

The real-time clock displays 24-hour time, as well as date. You'll find the clock convenient for field

operation since it eliminates the need to bring a separate clock. Time can be easily set using the B A N D +

and B A N D - switches. The on-board lithium backup battery will power the clock for up to several years.

Specifications

Low-pass filter Flatness: better than 1 dB, 0.5 to 2 kHz; Atten.: approx. -20 dB at 4 kHz

Band-pass filter Bandwidth: approx. 80 Hz @ -3 dB, 270 Hz @ -20 dB (two stages cascaded)

Clock Accuracy +/- 20 ppm (+/- 1.7 seconds per day) at 25 degrees C

Date Formats MM-DD-YY or DD-MM-YY; handles all calendar months and leap years

Current Drain Approx. 10 mA

Size 1.5" (L) x 1.5" (D) x 0.5" (H) (3.8 x 3.8 x 12 cm)

Caution: Some parts in this kit can be damaged by static discharge. Before handling any

transistors or ICs, put on an anti-static wrist strap, or touch a grounded, unpainted metal surface.

Parts Inventory

The table below lists all parts in the kit. Refer to the K2 manual parts lists for photographs.

Ref.

Description

Part No.

Qty

BT1

Battery, 3V lithium, 20 mm dia., CR2032 or equivalent

E980039

C19

Capacitor, 33 pF ("33" or "330")

E530064

C9, C15, C16

Capacitor, 470 pF ("471")

E530080

C11, C14

Capacitor, .01 µF ("103"), 0.1" lead spacing

E530019

C3, C4, C7, C8

Capacitor, .01 µF ("103"), 0.2" lead spacing

E530009

C5, C6

Capacitor, .022 µF ("223")

E530056

C1, C2

Capacitor, .068 µF ("683")

E530081

C12, C13, C17, C18

Capacitor, 0.22 µF ("224")

E530079

C10

Capacitor, electrolytic, 10 µF

E530045

D1, D2

Diode, 1N5711

E560004

CTRL-J1

Conn., 5 pin female, 0.1" spcg., gold

E620051

CTRL-J2

Conn., 3 pin female, 0.1" spcg., gold

E620009

L1, L2

Inductor, 82 mH, 5%, shielded ("823")

E690015

Conn., 5-pin male, 0.1" spcg., gold

E620052

Conn., 3-pin male, 0.1" spcg., gold

E620053

Q1, Q2, Q3

Transistor, J309 JFET

E580009

R11, R12, R15-R17

Resistor, 220 ohms, 1/4 watt, 5% (red-red-brown)

E500002

R3, R7

Resistor, 470 ohms, 1/4 watt, 5% (yellow-violet-brown)

E500003

R13

Resistor, 910 ohms, 1/4 watt, 5% (white-brown-brown )

E500070

R14

Resistor, 2.7 k, 1/4 watt, 5% (red-violet-red)

E500005

R9, R10

Resistor, 10 k, 1/4 watt, 5% (brown-black-orange)

E500015

Resistor, 47 k, 1/4 watt, 5% (yellow-violet-orange)

E500067

Resistor, 100 k, 1/4 watt, 5% (brown-black-yellow)

E500006

Resistor, 180 k, 1/4 watt, 5% (brown-gray-yellow)

E500068

Resistor, 510 k, 1/4 watt, 5% (green-brown-yellow)

E500069

R1, R2

Trimmer potentiometer, 5K ("502")

E520009

RP1

Resistor network, 3.9 k, 4 resistors, 8 pins

E510000

Miniature slide switch, DPDT

E640009

IC, quad low-noise op-amp, LM837N

E600037

IC, programmed microcontroller, PIC16C621A-04/P

E610009

IC, real-time clock, NJU6355ED

E600038

IC, voltage regulator, 6V, 2.5%, ZR78L06C

E600017

Conn., 2-pin male, 0.1" spacing

E620054

Crystal, cylindrical, 32.768 kHz

E660015

Ceramic resonator, 4 MHz, 3 pins

E660001

MISC

Jumper, 2-pin shorting (for W1)

E620031

MISC

KAF2 PC board

E100128

MISC

Socket for BT1

E980040

MISC

IC socket (for U2), 18 pins

E620031

HDWR

Standoff, male-female, 1/2" long x 1/4" dia, 4-40 thd

E700057

Firmware Requirements

To use the KAF2's real-time clock, you'll need main microcontroller firmware revision 2.01 or later. If you

have an earlier version (1.xx), you should have received an upgrade. You can install the firmware upgrade

during assembly of the KAF2 (as explained later), or you can install it ahead of time.

Note: The main micro is U6 on the K2 Control board. To check your firmware revision, hold any switch

when powering up the K2. When you release the switch, the revision will be shown on the LCD (left side).

Assembly

A fine-point, temperature-controlled soldering iron (700-800 degrees F maximum) is

required to assemble the PC boards. A higher-wattage iron or one with a wide tip may damage

components, pads, or traces. We also recommended the use of a Panavise (or equivalent bench vise)

and an illuminated magnifying glass to facilitate PCB and connector assembly.

To avoid soldering conflicts, install components only in the order described below. Double-

check all values before soldering, since removing parts from double-sided PC boards can be difficult.

Locate the KAF2 PC board and identify the top and bottom sides. The side of the board with outlines

of the ICs (U1-U4) and most other components is the top; the side with the "KAF2" label is the bottom. If

an assembly step does not specify top or bottom, the component should be installed on the top side.

On the top side of the board, install the two 1N5711 diodes, D1 and D2. The cathode end of each

diode has a black band which must be aligned with the banded end of its PC board component outline. The

leads of the diodes must be bent very close to the body in order to fit between the two pads.

Make sure D1 and D2 are seated flat against the PC board, then solder and trim the leads.

The leads on small capacitors can be fragile. When handling capacitors in the following

steps, do not pull on the leads or bend them excessively.

There are two different types of .01-µF capacitors supplied. Both are labeled ".01" or "103", but they

have different lead spacing. Locate the two .01-µF capacitors with 0.1" (2.5 mm) lead spacing, as well as

the four with 0.2" (5 mm) lead spacing. Separate them into two groups.

Note: For all remaining assembly steps, you should solder and trim component leads after installing each

group of components unless otherwise instructed. Leads can be trimmed before or after soldering, but trim

them as short as possible.

On the top side of the PC board, install the four .01-µF capacitors with 0.2" (5 mm) lead spacing:

__C3, __C4, __C7 and __C8.

Some components will be installed on the bottom of the board. These components must be

seated down onto the board as far as they'll go. In the case of capacitors with formed leads, there is

no need to re-form the leads. A small amount of lead length can remain exposed.

Install the two .01-µF capacitors with 0.1" (2.5 mm) lead spacing:

__C11 (top side of the board), __C14 (bottom side).

Trim the leads of C14 as short as possible, using flush-cutters if available. If the leads are not kept

very short, they may interfere with installation of U1 on the top side of the board.

Locate the two .022-µF capacitors, labeled "223". Also locate the four 0.22-µF capacitors ("224").

Make sure you can tell the two types apart, and separate them into two groups.

Install the four 0.22-µF capacitors ("224") on the top side of the board:

__C12, __C13, __C17, __C18.

On the bottom side of the board, install the 470-pF capacitors ("471"):

__C9, __C15, __C16.

Trim the leads of C15 and C16 as short as possible, preferably flush with the board.

On the top side, install the .068-µF capacitors ("683"): __C1, __C2.

Install electrolytic capacitor C10 (10 µF). The (+) lead of C10 must be installed in the hole marked

"+". The (+) lead is usually longer than the (-) lead. The (-) lead is identified by a stripe on the body.

Install the following resistors (top side). When installing R9 (10 k), keep the body of the resistor

elevated just slightly above the board so that it doesn’t contact the soldered leads of C16.

__R9, __R10 (10 k, brown-black-orange)

__R15, __R16 (220 ohms, red-red-brown)

__R3 (470 ohms, yellow-violet-brown)

__R5 (100 k, brown-black-yellow)

__R8 (510 k, green-brown-yellow)

Install the following resistors (bottom side). When soldering, be very careful not to touch adjacent

components with the soldering iron.

__R11, __R12, __R17 (220 ohms, red-red-brown)

__R7 (470 ohms, yellow-violet-brown)

__R13 (910 ohms, white-brown-brown)

__R4 (47 k, yellow-violet-orange)

__R6 (180 k, brown-gray-yellow)

__R14 (2.7 k, red-violet-red)

Trim the leads of R14 as short as possible so it won't interfere with the installation of U3.

Install trimmers R1 and R2 (5 k) as indicated by their component outlines on the top side of the board.

Install resistor network RP1 (3.9 k, 8 pins). This resistor network is symmetrical and can be installed

in either orientation, but for consistency you should orient it with the pin 1 end (black dot) toward pin 1 of

the PCB outline (round pad, also labeled "1").

Install the miniature slide switch, S1. The switch should be pressed down onto the board as far as it

will go before soldering. Use a minimum amount of heat to avoid melting S1's plastic body.

Set S1 to the OUT position.

Locate the 18-pin IC socket. One end will have a notch or other mark indicating the pin 1 end. Install

this socket at U2, with the pin 1 end of the socket toward the notched end of the IC's PC board outline.

Install the ceramic resonator, Z1. (Z1 looks like a capacitor with three leads.)

Before handling ICs and transistors, touch an unpainted, grounded metal surface.

Install transistors Q1, Q2, and Q3 (J309) as indicated by their outlines. The installed height of the

transistors should be no more than 3/8" (9 mm). Use a minimum of soldering time (1-2 seconds per lead).

Voltage regulator U4 (ZR78L06C) has a 3-pin TO-92 package, like a transistor. Install U4 in the same

manner as Q1-Q3.

Install the quad op-amp IC, U1 (LM837N). Orient the notched or dotted end of U1 toward the notched

end of its PC board outline (pin 1 end, to the left). Double-check the orientation before soldering.

The real-time clock IC, U3 (NJU6355ED), must be handled carefully. Be sure to touch a grounded

surface before and during its installation. Install U3, noting the orientation of the notched end as you did

with U1. Verify the orientation before soldering.

Install C5 and C6 (.022 µF, "223"). C6 may be a tight fit due to its proximity to U1. Adjust C6's

position slightly if necessary, but be careful not to stress the leads.

Install the 2-pin male connector on the top side of the board at W1 as shown below. The short ends of

the pins are inserted into the board, and the long ends face up. Do not solder yet.

Make sure that the 2-pin male connector is flat against the PC board, then solder.

Install the 5-pin and 3-pin male connectors on the bottom side of the board at P1 and P2. The short

ends of the pins are inserted into the PC board from the bottom (see drawing, page 5). Do not solder yet.

Solder just one pin each of P1 and P2. If the connectors do not appear to be seated flat against the PC

board, or they are tilted, re-heat the pins and adjust the connectors as needed. Once the connectors are

correctly installed, solder all remaining pins.

Install the two shielded inductors (L1 and L2) as indicated by their component outlines. Make sure the

inductors are pressed down onto the PC board as far as they can go, then bend the leads slightly to hold

them into position while soldering. Trim the leads as close to the board as possible.

Install the battery socket, straightening the leads if necessary. The battery itself will be installed

later. If it is installed in the socket at this time, remove it.

Install cylindrical crystal X1 vertically between U3 and BT1. The exposed lead length should be 0.1"

(2.5 mm) or less. Be careful with the crystal's leads, which are very thin and may break if stressed.

The KAF2 date display format is normally MM-DD-YY. If you prefer DD-MM-YY, solder a short

wire jumper at W2. The pads for W2 are located on the bottom of the board, near pin 10 of U2.

Capacitor C19 (33 pF) must be soldered onto two pads of U3, on the bottom side of the PC board (see

below). Pin 1 is identified in the illustration (round pad). C19 should be soldered to pins 2 and 4. Make sure

that the body of C19 is not touching any adjacent pads.

R14

C19

U3-1

Before handling U2, touch an unpainted, grounded metal surface.

Carefully straighten the pins on the microcontroller, U2 (PIC16C621A). The two rows of pins must be

parallel to each other, with no pins bent.

Press the microcontroller into its socket, orienting the notched or dimpled end of the IC with the

notched end of its component outline. The labeling on the microcontroller should read from left to right,

like the other ICs on the board.

Control Board Preparation

If the firmware on the Control board must be upgraded, do so now. Follow all instructions supplied

with the upgrade, but leave the cover off when finished. Make sure the firmware installation is complete

and that the K2 is working correctly before continuing.

Turn off the K2. If the internal battery (KBT2) is installed, put its switch in the OFF position.

Remove the K2's top cover (six screws). Disconnect cables for the options, speaker, and freq. counter.

Remove the two screws that hold the Control board to the Front Panel board. Extract the Control

board using the long-handled Allen wrench as explained on page 40 of the K2 Owner's Manual (fig. 6-11).

Place the Control board on a clean work surface, with the top side up (the side with most parts).

Check the revision of your Control board, which appears at the bottom right. If your Control board is

revision A (or earlier, i.e. XA, XB, XC), you'll find that the component outlines for the KAF2 connectors

(J1 and J2), as well as the audio filter module itself, appear on the bottom side of the board. DO NOT

install J1 and J2 on the bottom side of the Control board. The KAF2 module and associated

connectors will be installed on the top side.

When removing R18 and R19 from the Control board in the following steps, be very careful not to

damage the pads or traces. You can use solder wick or a vacuum desoldering tool. Another method is to

clip the leads of the resistors right at the body, then remove the leads one at a time. Use long-nose pliers to

hold the lead, then heat the joint until the lead slides out with very little pulling force. If R18 and R19 are

jumpers rather than resistors, removal will be easier, but it must still be done carefully.

Locate R18 and R19 (resistors or jumper), located near the right end of the 36-pin connector, P2.

De-solder and remove them from the Control board. Observe the precautions above.

Use solder wick or a vacuum desoldering tool to remove residual solder from the resistor holes. Do

not overheat the pads. The holes must be completely clean to allow installation of the KAF2 connectors.

Install the 5-pin and 3-pin female connectors, J1 and J2, on the top side of the Control board. (As

mentioned above, if you have an older Control board, the outlines are on the bottom. You'll still use the

same holes.) Solder just one pin of each connector.

If either J1 or J2 is not seated flat against the board, reheat the appropriate pin and adjust the connector

as needed. Once both connectors are straight and seated correctly, solder all remaining pins.

There are several electrolytic capacitors on the top side of the Control board in the area where the

KAF2 will be installed. (See illustration on next page.) Straighten C28, C29, C32, and C33 to avoid

possible interference with the KAF2. Make sure that all other components in this general area have short

leads and are seated correctly.

Plug the Control board into the RF board. Make sure that all three connectors on the Control board are

properly mated with their respective RF board connectors.

Installation

Two screws are used to hold the Control board to the Front Panel board. The screw on the left end

(as viewed from the K2 front panel) will be replaced with the male-female standoff supplied with the

KAF2. Once the KAF2 is in position, the original screw and lock washer will be used to hold it in place.

Thread the 1/2" (12 mm) male-female standoff through the mounting hole in the control board (near

C29) and into the front panel standoff. The standoff should be firmly hand-tightened.

Plug the KAF2 module into the Control board as shown below. All pins of P1 and P2 on the KAF2

must be correctly mated with J1 and J2 on the Control board, or either board could be damaged.

J1 J2

MCU (U6

)

KAF2

If the standoff does not line up with the hole near the middle of the KAF2 module, you may

have the pins of J1 and J2 shifted by one position.

Use the original Control board screw and lock washer to secure the KAF2 to its standoff.

Alignment and Test

Turn on the K2. If you see or smell smoke, turn the rig off immediately and refer to Troubleshooting.

Low-Pass Filter

Switch to LSB or USB mode and select a wide crystal filter bandwidth using X F I L . Use O P 1 (option

filter 1) if you have the SSB adapter installed; otherwise use a wide setting of the variable-bandwidth filter.

Turn the preamp and attenuator off using P R E / A T T N. (Make sure the annunciators are turned off.)

Disconnect the antenna, and plug in a pair of headphones.

Set RF GAIN fully clockwise. Set AF GAIN so that you can clearly hear receiver background noise.

Move S1 on the KAF2 module to the IN position, which puts the KAF2's low-pass filter in-circuit.

You should hear a significant reduction in noise (hiss). If not, see Troubleshooting.

Connect an antenna and tune in an SSB or AM broadcast station. Again test the OUT and IN positions

of S1. Switching the KAF2 IN should not affect the intelligibility of voice-band signals, but it will result in

a slightly "warmer" tone due to the low-pass filter1.

Band-Pass Filter

The band-pass filter will be aligned to match your CW sidetone pitch. The cover of the K2 must be off

to make this adjustment, so be sure you've selected your preferred sidetone pitch (S T P menu entry).

Switch to 40 meters. With the K2 still set for a wide bandwidth, locate the K2's weak "birdie" at 7000

kHz. You may need to turn on the preamp and disconnect the antenna. You can also use an on-air signal.

Tune the VFO until the pitch of the weak RF signal matches your CW sidetone pitch. To do this by

ear: (1) hold S P O T; (2) adjust the AF GAIN control until both the sidetone and RF signal are at about the

same strength; (3) move the VFO slowly until the RF signal seems to "disappear"; (4) cancel the K2's spot

signal by tapping any switch. Alternatively, you can use an audio spectral-analysis program to do pitch

matching and filter alignment2.

Make sure S1 on the KAF2 is in the IN position, enabling all audio filter circuits. (Also make sure that

jumper W1 is not installed.) Then hold the K2's A F I L switch. You should see A F 1 on the display,

indicating that the first band-pass filter section has been enabled. The receiver sound should change due to

the narrower bandwidth. The signal may decrease in amplitude.

Using a small screwdriver, adjust R1 on the KAF2 (the pot closest to the RF board) for maximum

signal strength. The peak will be broad. Hold A F I L again to enable the second band-pass filter section; you

should see A F 2 on the display. Adjust R2 for maximum signal strength; then re-peak R1. Hold A F I L

again to return the KAF2 to O F F.

Repeat the two band-pass filter adjustments if necessary. When the filter sections are properly

adjusted, the RF signal should be clear, distinct, and slightly louder when A F 2 is selected.

A 2-pin shorting jumper is supplied for optional use at W1. When the jumper is installed, audio filter

mode A F 1 will be skipped. If you prefer to keep the A F 1 setting, you can still store the jumper on W1 by

attaching it to just one of W1's two pins.

Connect the frequency counter cable from P6 on the Control board to TP2 (BFO) on the RF board.

We recommend that you adjust all CW filter BFO settings so that their center pitch matches your

sidetone pitch. Since the audio filter was also matched to the sidetone pitch, this will ensure that the KAF2

works well in combination with narrow crystal filter settings. Refer to the K2 Owner's Manual for details

on BFO and filter setup (C A L F I L). Again, this can be done by ear or with the aid of a computer program.

1The roll-off point of the low-pass filter can be altered if desired; see Using the Audio Filter.

2See http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/new_fil_docs/filter_apps.htm for further information.

3-Volt Battery Installation

Turn the K2 off. Remove the top cover or left side panel to gain access to the KAF2.

The (+) side of the 3-volt battery must be oriented toward the "+" symbol on the KAF2 board. The (-)

side must face the left side panel of the K2. Insert the battery in its socket, under the spring clip. DO NOT

use long-nose pliers to hold the battery--this will short the + and - sides of the battery together.

Setting the Date and Time

Turn the K2 on. Tap M E N U, then tap D I S P L A Y to switch to the secondary menu, and locate the

R T C menu entry. E D I T the parameter and change it to O N using B A N D + or B A N D -. (This enables the

clock feature.) Tap M E N U twice to return to the frequency display.

To set the real-time clock you must set the date first, then the time, as described below. (The KAF2

firmware enforces this sequence to help prevent accidental time changes. If you attempt to set the time first,

or if you switch between time and date display more than once, any changes will be disabled.)

1. Turn the K2 off, wait a few seconds, then turn it back on. If you plan to use WWV or some other on-

air time announcement, tune it in now. If you're setting the clock to UTC, don't forget to use the UTC

date if it's different from the local date.

2. Tap D I S P L A Y. After about 1 second, you should see a time display (H H . M M . S S). The time may

not be changing at this point, and may be set to 0 1 . 0 1 . 0 1 or to a random time. Note: The receiver is

not muted when time is displayed, so you may hear microcontroller-generated noise. If the noise is

objectionable, turn down the AF gain when leaving the clock displayed for long periods of time.

3. Hold B A N D + and B A N D - together to switch to date display (M M - D D - Y Y or D D - M M - Y Y

3).

4. Tapping B A N D + or B A N D - will now change the day, and holding B A N D + or B A N D - will

change the month. To change the year: If the month is set to 1 2, each subsequent hold of B A N D +

will increment the year. If the month is set to 1, each subsequent hold of B A N D - will decrement the

year. Once the desired year is selected, you can set the month by moving it back in the other direction.

5. With the date now set, hold B A N D + and B A N D - together to switch back to time display.

6. Tapping B A N D + or B A N D - will now change the minute, and holding B A N D + or B A N D - will

change the hour. Every change resets seconds to 0 0, so you can sync to a time reference if desired.

7. To disable further changes, switch to date display, then back to time display. Then move the VFO knob

or tap D I S P L A Y twice to return to the normal frequency display.

Final Assembly

Turn off the K2. Re-connect the speaker cable and any option cables.

Replace the K2 top cover and secure it with six screws.

Set the internal battery switch to ON if applicable.

3Jumper W2 must be installed to select D D - M M - Y Y date format; see page 6.

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