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Possible cause 3: Insucient ow.
If using a cartridge lter: Conrm this by running the system with the
cartridge removed from your pump and lter unit, this will supply the
heater with the maximum ow rate your unit is capable of. If the heater
then switches ’On’ (ie: red light ’On’) a blocked cartridge can be conrmed
to be the cause. The cartridge should be cleaned or replaced.
If using a sand lter: Check the pressure indicator on your sand lter and
back wash if necessary.
Note: In some cases the ‘Thermal safety cut-out’ tripping and a low
ow rate can be linked ie: when a lter becomes choked air can be
drawn into the ltration system and become trapped inside the
heater, so causing the thermal cut-out to trip.
General Trouble Shooting
THE FLOW TUBE DOES NOT FEEL WARM
Due to the high eciency of your electric heater no warmth should be
detectable from the ow tube of the heater.
The most likely causes of the ow tube feeling warm are:-
Possible cause 1: The heater has been positioned in direct sunlight.
Possible cause 2: An air pocket is trapped inside the heater particularly if the
ow tube feels warmer at the highest point (as air rises).
THE WATER ENTERING MY POND DOES NOT FEEL MUCH WARMER
The temperature gain of the water after it has passed through the heater
will be directly proportional to the volume of water being pumped in
relationship to the power output of the heater.
For example: A 6-kW heater, when connected to a 4,000 litre / hour
(4m/h) pump, will produce a lift in temperature of approximately 1.2°C
(almost undetectable to the human hand) however, as the water being
heated is re-circulated from a single body of water, the time required to
heat it remains unaected by the volume of ow. A popular misconception
is that slowing down the ow rate will speed up the heating process.
