Hobie Mirage i12s Bedienungsanleitung

Hobie Mirage i12s

Thank you for choosing a Hobie Mirage Inflatable Kayak. As a member of the

Hobie way of life, you are now on the road to pure adventure in pedaling and

paddling. This owner’s manual is designed to help you get maximum enjoyment

from your new Hobie kayak. But more important, it is designed to help you use

it safely. The content of this manual covers all inflatable Mirage kayaks.

Welcome to the Hobie Way of Life

Sit-on-top Cockpit

Hobie Mirage kayaks are open-top cockpit designs. This

allows the kayaker to enter and exit the kayak easily from

the shore, dock or water. Scupper hole(s) make the kayak

self-bailing. The design also eliminates the need to perform

an “Eskimo roll” (advanced kayak technique).

Scupper Hole(s)

Drain holes (scuppers) in the cockpit or cargo well will allow

any water that enters the cockpit to immediately flow back

out.

Patented Inflatable Hull Design

The Hobie Mirage Inflatable line of kayaks uses a patent

pending drop stitch construction to give performance that is

comparable to a hard shell kayak. The black material along

the bottom is stretched tightly to give you a fair hull shape

for maximum performance. It is important to know that the

bottom surface creates a bilge area inside the kayak that

can collect water if punctured, but the kayak will not sink.

See the draining instructions later in this manual.

Maneuverability

All Inflatable Mirage Kayaks come with the (patented) Twist

and Stow rudder system which comes pre-installed by our

factory. This new rudder is designed to flip out of the way

during land transport. It has an optional larger rudder blade

for more turning authority with the kayak sailing option.

Durable PVC Construction

Hobie Inflatable kayaks are made from a durable PVC to

continue Hobie’s tradition of quality, long-lasting products

that will give you years of enjoyment.

Hobie Mirage i14t w/ Sail

About the Design of your Kayak

Inflating Your Hobie Mirage Kayak

Follow the instructions below for valve operation and correct

inflation and deflation procedures.

Valve Operation Your kayak is equipped with three differ-

ent chambers that need to be inflated. All of the valves are

located near the rear of the boat. There is one valve on each

of the tube sides and one valve on the floor.

To close off the valve for inflation, make

sure that the center valve pin is in the "up"

position. If it is in the "down" position,

press down on the valve pin and turn it

counterclockwise until it pops up.

To open the valve for deflation, press

down on the valve pin and turn it clock-

wise so it locks down. Be careful of any

sand or debris around the valve area

when deflating as small particles could

become airborne with the release of air

pressure!

Always lock the valve cover over the

valve stem when in use. This will prevent

accidental air release and entrance of any

particles into the air chambers.

Kayak Inflation Steps

1. Make sure that all of the valves are in the closed position

(valve pin up) so they hold the air inside the tubes.

2. Open up the forward hatch on the firewall.

3. Press the pump nozzle into the valve receptacle.

4. Start pumping air into the kayak

chamber by sliding the pump piston

in and out. Start by inflating the floor

first, then the tube sides. If you can

pick up one end of the kayak with the

other end on the ground and the kayak

does not buckle, the floor is properly

inflated. The tube sides should be

inflated until all wrinkles are smoothed

out of the exterior surfaces.

Tip: If the pump piston starts to

squeak, apply some spray silicone on

the piston shaft.

Hold

pump

here

Inflation Tips and Precautions

· The boat can be inflated either with our hand pump or an

electric pump. The electric pump can inflate the boat to a

moderate pressure and save a lot of time with about 90%

of the required air volume. You will need to use your hand

pump to inflate the chambers to the correct pressure.

· Do not use an air compressor. Damage to your boat

caused by over inflation from an air compressor is not cov-

ered by your warranty.

· After 2 or 3 days there may be a small decrease of pres-

sure due to temperature change. If so, add a few pumps of

air to each chamber.

Kayak Deflation Steps

1. Open up the forward hatch on the firewall.

2. Clear any water or debris out of the valve areas.

3. Slowly press down on the valve stem to start letting air out

of the kayak. There will be an initial burst of air, but that will

slow down very quickly. Once the air flow has slowed down,

press the valve stem all the way down and turn it clockwise

to lock it into the "open" position.

4. Follow this same procedure with all of the chambers.

· Before undertaking a long trip, inflate the boat for a full 24

hours to be sure all chambers are completely airtight.

If you are seeing a consistent decrease in air pressure, fol-

low the instructions for leak detection in the kayak repair

section of this manual.

· Do not over-inflate the kayak. A pressure of 3-5 PSI is

adequate if you have a pressure gauge. The easiest gauge

of a good working pressure is to have the chambers inflated

to a firm pressure when you press on them.

· Do not pump to a high pressure and let the kayak sit out

in the sun. If the kayak is going to be in a warm environ-

ment, slightly under-inflate the chamber and allow the heat

from the sun to increase the internal chamber pressure.

When kayaking, the colder temperature of the water may

cause a slight loss in chamber pressure. It is a good idea

to carry a pump with you so that you can add some air to

the chambers if necessary.

· If you notice that the bow area is sunken in when inflat-

ing, make sure that the forward Twist&Seal Hatch is open to

prevent a vacuum from building inside the bilge area.

Rear Draining Scuppers

Located just behind the seat on the

i12s and behind the rear most seat

on the i14t are two draining scup-

pers. These will allow any water to

drain if it collects near your seat bot-

tom. Pull the plug out of the tube to

allow water to drain. If you have the

kayak loaded heavily with passen-

gers and gear, you may want the plug in the tube to prevent

water from surging up into the kayak.

Plug in Cart

To make transportation from

your car to the water a breeze,

there are transport wheels

available. The two prongs of

the cart plug into two receiv-

ers located on the bottom of

the plastic Mirage well. The

cart scuppers are designed to handle relatively light loads

and smooth rolling. Rough terrain and jumping over curbs

could result in damaging the Mirage well.

Seat Adjustment

To hold the seatback to

the floor of the kayak,

there are three padeyes

that are used as anchor

points. Notice that there

are three lengths of web-

bing with hooks on the

end. Clip those to the padeyes and tighten up the webbing

straps to hold the seat securely in place. This webbing sys-

tem allows you to adjust the fore and aft location of the seat

to accommodate both tall and short paddlers in addition to

the adjustment of the pedals on the drive.

Bilge Draining

As mentioned earlier,

it is important to know

that there is a bilge

area between the bot-

tom surface the tubes.

If water collects in this

area the kayak will feel

heavy and you will hear water sloshing around; it will need

to be drained. On the right corner of the firewall is a drain

plug. Simply lift up the kayak and rotate it toward the drain

hole to drain the kayak. To prevent moisture build-up in the

kayak, leave the front hatch open to allow the interior to get

fresh air and dry.

Kayak Features

Rudder Operation

Steering Operation and Adjustment

On the left side of the

kayak is a steering

handle which turns the

rudder left and right.

When in use, place

your hand on the disk

and rotate the tab left

and right to turn the

rudder.

Up/Down Rudder Control

Located just to the right of the seat are two T-handles which

control the up and down motion of the rudder. Pull on the red

handle to raise the rudder and the green handle to lower the

rudder. Once the rudder is in the desired position, run the

black line into the cleat to hold it in position.

The right steering

control line passes

up through the hole

here and is tight-

ened down with

the small screw

alongside it.

The left steer-

ing control

line is tied off

at the screw

here.

Hobie Mirage Drive

Drive Installation/Removal

1. Insert the Hobie Mirage Drive into the

opening of the hull in front of the seat

location so it is facing forward. The front

of the Mirage Drive can be determined by

the location of the fin masts. The forward

edge is illustrated to the right.

2. As you drop the drive straight

down into the hole, it will automati-

cally lock into place when the spring

loaded cams snap over the steel

Mirage drum shaft. Pull up on the

drive when you think it is installed

just to make sure that the cams are

securely locked.

3. To remove the drive from the

kayak, flip back the locking cam on

both sides of the Mirage Drive and

pull the drive out.

FORWARD

Stainless

Steel Masts

1. Locate the pedal that has a

number followed by the letter "R"

on the backside of the pedal. This

is the right pedal. Squeeze the

adjuster handle and slide the end

of the pedal crank into the slot on

the right drum.

2. Align the hole in the crank

so that you can slide the bolt all

the way through the outer part

of the drum and the crank. Use

the wrench provided with this kit

to thread in the bolt. Tighten the

bolt so that it is snug, but not so

tight that it prevent the crank from

moving back and forth to allow for

adjustment.

Drive Assembly

The Hobie Mirage Drives for the inflatable kayaks have the

pedal cranks removed from the drums and can be done in

the future for more compact packing. The following steps will

guide you in how to install the pedal cranks.

3. Follow this same procedure with the left pedal.

Washing

After using in salt water or dirty water, wash the Hobie Mirage

Drive with fresh water. Allow to dry, then spray metal parts

(nuts, chains, cable ends, etc..) with WD-40™ or equivalent.

Cable Adjustments

Determining if adjustment is needed...

Occasionally the cables may need to be

re-tightened. The cables should be kept

taut; however, the front chain should be a

little tighter than the rear chain. Push with

your thumbs at the points marked "A"

with moderate pressure (see the image

to the right). The side of the chain should

not go beyond the inside edge of the

drum casting.

Drum Casting

When turning the cable adjusting nuts, use a 7/16 inch open-

end wrench, only giving it one half a turn at a time, then do

the same to the remaining three nuts. Re-check the tension

and adjust accordingly.

Note: Keep the pedal shafts and masts parallel. When the

shafts are together, both masts must be straight down. The

idler pulley cable (see item "B" in the illustration above) will

be tightened automatically when the front chain assembly is

tightened.

Pedal Adjustment

The pedals of the Hobie Mirage Drive are adjustable to

accommodate different leg lengths of kayakers. To adjust

the pedals:

1. Squeeze the adjuster handles

located on the pedal cranks.

2. Keeping the adjuster handle

squeezed, move the pedal crank to

the most comfortable position. Like

a bicycle, it is best to adjust the ped-

als so your legs do not fully extend

and knees lock. Make sure that the

metal pin on the crank fully engages

the adjustment hole. The pin from the right and left pedals

should be in the same adjustment number hole on both

drums

The kayak storage bag is a travel design to allow you to get

your kayak into the bag as easily as possible with minimal

folds. Follow the diagrams below for the best folding proce-

dures of the tandem and single inflatable kayaks.

Kayak Folding Steps

i12s

i14t

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