Honeywell WP230A-M Montageanleitung

Honeywell

CONTENTS

Introduction....................................................................

Maintenance Schedule

.............................................................

Maintenance

....................................................................

Troubleshooting

................................................................. 4

Repair ........................................................................

Parts List.........................................................................

Ordering Information. .............................................................

WP240 Wiring Diagrams

............................................................

WP250

Refrigeration Drier Operation Check, .............................................. 16

Data Tables ....................................................................

Rev. 7-77

J.R.W.

Form Number 75-7131

Commercial Div

depe

iring

.Check the oil level (and oil pressure on 2

and larger),

3. Check the tank and

pressure

bserve

compressor operation to ascertain that the

pump does build up to

cut-out

pressure and does

shut

off.

2. Check intake filters,

3. Check tension and condition of the belts.

4, Check safety relief valves,

Check drier operation

(

Every Year

1. Change the intake filters.

2. Change compressed air filters,

If the

compressor

installed

extremely

dirty

dusty

atmosphere,

the

filters

may

need

to be changed more frequently . The

three

month checks will indicate a

need

for more

frequent replacement.

uincy

units

1/4

3/4

are splash lubricated

units and larger are pressure

lubricated.

dipstick is provided on all units for

checking

the oil

level.

To check the oil level, stop the pump, remove the

dipstick, wipe it off,

and

replace

it. Then

remove

it again

and check the level of

oil,

If oil is needed; addit through

the dipstick hole, ny good grade nondetergent oil is

satisfactory. Consult Table I for correct oil viscosity.

Under most circumstances, the crankcase will not

need to be flushed. However, if flushing becomes neces-

sary, use a nonflammable solvent. Lubricate the motor

annually in accordance with the instructions on the

nameplate.

Table 1. Compressor Oil Requirements

DRAINING THE TANK

Drain the tank by opening the drain cock. This is

located in the middle of the tank at one end on the 30

gallon and larger units and at the bottom of the 20 gal-

lon tanks. Allow a few seconds to purge the tank. Units

having an automatic drain require only a visual check of

the bowl to confirm performance. The drain can be

operated manually by pushing the red button on it. The

frequency of draining depends upon climatic conditions,

however weekly draining is the minimum requirement.

In humid climates, daily draining may be necessary. If

this is the case, consider adding the AK3485 automatic

drain kit.

AIR INTAKE FILTER

The filters used on the 1/4 to 2 HP compressors are

specially selected for use on Honeywell air compressors.

To check the filter, remove it from the adaptor. Hold a

flashlight tight against the intake openings. The light

should be visible from the inside of the filter. In a brightly

lit area, shield some of the ambient light from the filter.

Replace the filter if the light is not visible.

The 3 HP and larger units use the

Quincy

Air Maze

filter silencer which can be checked in the same manner.

It is washable and can be cleaned in a nonflammable

solvent or warm soapy water.

The 1/4 to 2 HP compressors manufactured after

September 1974 have one-piece replaceable filters.

These should be visually checked for foreign material

build-up. A dirty filter causes excessive oil consumption

and should be replaced.

FILTER CARTRIDGE

The condition of the filter element may be checked

by noting the line pressure after the filter if a gauge is

installed at this point. Subtract this pressure from the

tank pressure while the system is operating. The differ-

ence should not exceed 15 psi (105

kPa).

When changing

the filter, refer to PP902A and I3 Service Data, Form

75-2558.

The filter separator drain on the refrigeration unit of

WP250 Compressors should be periodically checked. The

cinder bronze element is washable.

To change the filter in 3 to 20 HP units, refer to

Figure 1. Shut off air to the filter and bleed down the

housing by manually operating the drain trap, Remove

the wing nut and clamp ring from the housing. Then

remove the housing and automatic drain, Remove the

knurled nut at the bottom of the filter and replace the

filter. Reassemble, making certain that the “0” ring

seal on the bottom of the cover has not been disturbed.

Turn on the air slowly and check for leaks.

SAFETY RELIEF VALVES

Safety relief valves are factory set to approximately

15 psi (105

kPa)

higher than the rated pressure of the

compressor. Check each safety relief valve by pulling on

the ring to unseat it. Malfunctioning valves should be

replaced or repaired immediately. Safety relief valves are

located next to the pressure switch or on the tank.

WING NUT

Fig. 1.

75-7131

l1/Z” APPRX (13mm)

MOTOR

PULLEY

1938

Fig. 2.

BELT ADJUSTMENT

Hand pressure should depress the belt about

1/2

inch.

See Figure 2. The belt should be tight enough so that no

slipping occurs. A belt that is unnecessarily tight can

cause excessive wear.

Adjust belt tension by loosening the motor

hold-

down bolts, moving the motor until tension is correct.

Then retighten the bolts. Make certain that belts and

pulleys are aligned properly. If a belt becomes worn or

frayed, replace it.

PRESSURES

When making weekly maintenance checks, verify that

the tank pressure is in the 70 to 90 psi (480 to 620

kPa)

range. Also make certain that the PRV pressure for

each unit is at the proper setting.

COMPRESSOR OPERATION

As part of the weekly operational check, confirm that

the compressor does have an “off" period and is not

running continuously. Note that on WP240 Compressors,

the manual alternation system should be switched over

to confirm the start-up and off cycle of both pumps.

Every three months, the cut-in pressure, pump up

time, cut-out pressure, and off time should be measured

under normal operating conditions. It should be below

50 percent operation, that is, it should have more off

time than on time. It should operate approximately

from 70 to 90 psi (480 to 620

kPa)

on the 1/4 to 5HP

units and from 60 to 100 psi (415 to 690

kPa)

on the

7-l/2 to 20 HP units. Note that on the

WP240

units, the

pumps should be switched and rechecked (switching is

automatic on some units).

A good maintenance practice is to keep these figures

for practice. If possible, attach a card with the figures to

the device. Decreasing off periods with no change inthe

pressure range indicate an increase in air consumption,

Pump up times will increase also. This can be caused by

added devices or leaks. Increasing pump up time withno

change in the pressure range or off time indicates wear in

the compressor and may warrant closer observation, This

is usually followed by an increase in oil consumption.

If there is suspicion of wear, the dead ended pump

up time (pumping up the tank with the system shut off)

should be checked against the value given in the data

table. If it differs from the data table by more than 10

percent, then an analysis of the cause should be made

and the situation corrected. Refer to the

WP240

Wiring

Diagrams and the

WP250

Wiring Diagrams for operation

unique to these models.

TROUBLESHOOTING

ROTATION OF FLYWHEEL

MUST BE IN THE SAME

DIRECTION AS THE \

/--

OIL

PRESSURE

GAGE

WRONG

OIL

PRESSURE

Normal oil pressure for these compressors is from 10

to 20 psi (70 to 140 kPa). There should be no pressure

during the “Off” cycle. Check the oil level and clean the

oil intake filter before adjusting pressure. The oil pres-

sure is regulated by a spring loaded ball that is mounted

in the bearing carrier or in the crankcase near the bearing

carrier. See Figure 3, This is on the same side as the dip-

stick. The spring pressure is controlled by an adjusting

screw. Turning the screw inward will increase the pres-

sure.

Be sure to loosen the adjustment lock nut before

making any adjustment. Turn the adjustment screw

slowly until the oil gauge registers approximately 1.5 psi

(105 kPa). After the adjustment has been made, tighten

the adjustment screw lock nut.

75-7131

If it is impossible to get sufficient oil pressure, check

the oil pump and pressure gauge by unscrewing the

pressure gauge until oil seeps out around the threads

during operation of the compressor. This will indicate

that oil pressure is reaching the system and confirms

operation of the pressure gauge. The compressor requires

oil pressure to pump and to operate intake valve un-

loaders. Lack of pumping ability is a good indication of

loss of oil pressure. If oil appears at the threads of the

gauge and the oil pressure gauge indicates no pressure,

the gauge is probably faulty and should be replaced. If

no oil appears at the threads of the gauge, this is an

indication of possible oil pump failure.

If the oil pump must be replaced, refer to the “Oil

Pump Replacement” section for instructions on removal

and repair of the oil pump housing. In cases of low (not

zero) pressure, the cause may be excessive wear in the

pumping unit. Pump up time should be checked against

the table. Listen for unusual knocks which might indicate

worn bearings.

1/4 HP..

................. .OverYear

1/2 HP.

.................. .OverYear

3/4 HP.. .................. Over Year

1HP ......................

*Over Year

1-1/2 HP..

.................

*Over Year

2HP ....................... 280Days

3HP ....................... 190Days

5HP ....................... 115Days

7-1/2 HP.

................... 75Days

10 HP. ......................

55 Days

15 HP ....................... 40Days

HP.

......................

28 Days

2. Make certain the proper grade of oil is being used

AND THE COMPRESSOR IS NOT BEING OVER-

FILLED. Over filling always causes high oil con-

sumption Oil level should never be above the high

mark on the dipstick.

3. Check for leaks.

4, Check intake filter/piping and crankcase breather

valve for cleanliness and obstructions. Restricting

the intake air will cause higher oil consumption.

OIL LEAK

Most common oil leaks occur around screws and

gaskets. They generally can be corrected by tightening

the screw or replacing the gasket. If you are unable to

locate the source of the leak, clean the unit thoroughly

and sprinkle the areas suspected with baby powder.

Make certain not to get any baby powder into the intake.

Recheck the device after several hours and the leak

should be more easy to locate.

Excessive oil on the after cooler pipe or compressor

head usually indicates air leaks. Locate these with a soap

and water solution when the unit is operating. The un-

loaders should also be checked while the compressor is

in the “off” cycle because they are pressurized during

that time.

EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION

Oil consumption is a difficult problem to resolve and

the following steps should be taken before any repairs

begin.

1. Confirm the Complaint-Oil at the tank drain does

not necessarily indicate high oil consumption.

A 20 HP unit may consume a pint of oil in two

weeks and still be within specification, Since oil

is commonly available in quarts, the following is

the minimum number of days a quart should last

(assuming 50 percent or less operating cycle).

5. Check for excessive oil pressure or high percent

operation. If after performing the above, it is still

considered an oil consumer with no apparent ex-

ternal cause, then:

a. With the valve to the system closed, check

pump up and cycle pressures against the values

in the data table. Differences greater than 10

percent indicate worn parts.

Remove valves (the l/2 HP unit does not have

removable valves so the head must be removed)

and examine piston top. Oil wetted is acceptable

but any accumulation of oil indicates a defective

pump

OISY PUMP

The most common rea

son for a noisy pump is a loose

flywheel or motor pulley.

Check these first; then check:

Oil pressure-if low, check pump as described above.

Lack of oil pressure may have caused bearing

damage.

2. Valve assemblies-make certain they are tight.

3. Wrist pin or connecting rod bearings-stop pump

and remove belts. Rotate pump back and forth a

couple of inches, using the flywheel. If knock can

be heard, it is probably a bad wrist pin or

connect-

75-7131

ing rod bushings. Rod bushings can be inspected

by removing the side place and rod caps. Another

way to check is to remove the head and observe

the piston while rocking the flywheel. The piston

should follow the movement without play (except

at the top and bottom dead center where piston

will appear to hesitate). Inspect the cylinder and

head for carbon build up.

4. Bad main bearings-check for end play by attempt-

ing to move the flywheel in different directions.

Listen and feel for any play, End play on the

crank shaft can usually be eliminated by removing

one of the shims beneath the bearing housing

adjustment plate. A slight drag when turning by

hand is proper.

NOISY MOTOR

Most likely cause is a loose motor pulley, A low

pitched growl could be an indication of low voltage.

If the noise was slight, lubricate motor in accordance

with instructions on nameplate. If noise disappears, the

motor will probably be OK but should be watched more

carefully as its life has been shortened by the dry bearing.

To check bearings, stop the motor and remove the

belt and check for side play in the motor shaft. Also

turn motor by hand. Any side play or noise is an indica-

tion of bad bearings. Replace motor. End play (move-

ment of motor shaft in and out) is common in this type

of motor and not an indication of wear.

NOISE NOT LOCATABLE

The use of a large screwdriver or similar implement is

handy here. Place the pointed end against suspected

areas and the other against the ear. WATCH OUT FOR

THE SPINNING FLYWHEEL AND BELT.

In the 1/2 and 1/4 HP sizes a noise which cannot be

traced to the pump or motor will usually be the check

valve (the larger units do not have a check valve). The

check valve should be disassembled and inspected.

Replace if cleaning does not stop the noise.

Another noise which is not easily traceable is the belt

guard. This can be checked by applying hand pressure to

the outside surfaces at different points.

Intake filter gaskets should not be modified since

they are designed to minimize noise.

WON’T START

If there is no attempt to start, make certain power is

applied and fuses installed, With

W240

units, checkout

of electrical power application to the pump motor will

differ with the operation requirements of each system,

See wiring diagrams. If a voltage tester is available, check

for proper power at the motor terminals. If no power,

trace wiring back towards the source to locate the

problem.

CHECK FIRST AT THE PRESSURE SWITCH

If there is power at the motor terminals but the unit

is making no attempt to start, feel the motor. If hot,

built-in thermal protectors (up to 1 HP only) may be

disconnecting motor. Disconnect power and allow motor

to cool down. If motor now attempts to start, treat as

as described above. If cold, motor is defective and must

be replaced.

If it attempts to start, remove the belt and see if the

motor will start and run by itself. If the motor fails to

run, repair or replace motor. If the motor appears to run

properly with no load, it may have a defective capacitor

or centrifugal switch (single phase models only). With

the belts removed, try turning pump by hand. It should

run freely. If so, the motor is defective or voltages is

not within motor limits. Recheck both voltage and

motor operation and replace motor if voltage is proper.

GOES OUT ON ELECTRICAL OVERLOAD

If this occurs the first time at startup, the motor

wiring or voltage may be wrong. Recheck these and also

confirm that the oil has been added to the compressor.

Check for excessive tank pressure or faulty check valve.

Remove belt and check motor alone. Turn pump by

hand; it should turn

freely,

If the motor appears to run properly without the

pump, and the pump turns freely, reconnect the pump

and run with intake plugged (cover with hand). If the

motor and pump now run properly, a low voltage con-

dition probably exists. Take a voltage reading at the

motor terminals while the unit is pumping. Fractional

HP motors will usually “growl” with low voltage, a good

clue to the problem,

An oversized motor pully can also cause electrical

overload. Check the RPM and pully size (see Data Table).

WON’T PUMP AIR

This section is broken up into three categories as

follows:

1. Runs, but tank shows no build up

2. Builds up, but not completely or takes excessive

time

3. Pump slows, stalls, or goes out on overload

75-7131

RUNS, BUT TANK SHOWS NO BUILD UP

Cut off building air supply to eliminate possibility of

broken lines by closing supply valve on tank. If unit still

fails to build up, remove air intake filter. If still no

success, disconnect copper lines connected to intake

valves (3/4 HP and up). While the unit is running, no air

should be

coming

out of the copper line. If air is coming

out of the line, the unloader pilot is stuck or defective.

It should be removed, cleaned and inspected. The un-

loader pilot is at the other end of the copper line. See

Parts List for details of unloader and pilot.

If unit is not equipped with unloading valves (1/4 to

1/2 HP are not), remove discharge tube and check for

air flow. Block with hand to check ability to build up.

If poor or no discharge air, disassemble and inspect valves.

If discharge is good, look for air leak between pump and

tank valve (cracked discharge tube, tank, etc).

BUILDS UP, BUT NOT COMPLETELY, OR TAKES

EXCESSIVE TIME

Cut off system by closing tank valve and check pump

up time (see Data Table II). Remove intake and recheck.

Disconnect copper line at intake valves(3/4 HP and up).

If air is coming out of line (while unit is running), dis-

assemble and clean unloader pilot located at other end

of line. See Parts List for details.

Another reason for poor delivery, in multicyclinder

units, could be

valve unloader sticking. The valve un-

loaders can be checked by disconnecting the copper line

leading to them and removing the cover bolts. Tapping

with a blunt instrument such as the handle of a large

screwdriver or small hammer, will loosen the cover so it

may be lifted off. Carefully remove the diaphragm; this

will expose the piston cup which operates the unloader.

With the unit running, manually depress the piston.

There should be a distinct change in the intake sound

indicating the valve is

being

held open. Slowly depressing

the piston, you should first feel the resistance of the

return spring, then the

piston

contacting the intake

valve, then the sound

change

is you move the valve off

the seat. Use fingernails to remove this piston cup for

cleaning beneath, if necessary.

If the source of the trouble has still not been located,

remove and inspect intake and exhaust valves for dirt or

warpage. (NOTE: The head must be removed on the 1/2

HP unit to service valves as they are not removable.) The

piston top and cylinder walls can be inspected at this

time.

PUMP SLOWS, STALLS, OR GOES OUT ON OVER-

LOAD

This is probably the result of the pump seizing. Check

oil level (and pressure in 1 HP and

up).

Check tank pres-

sure, should be 90 psi or lower. (On

WP240

units, turn

off power to both motor-pump units.)

Remove belt and bleed down tank. Turn pump by

hand, it should turn freely. If it does, motor may be

defective. If it does not, it may be the pump or a

plugged aftercooler tube. Disconnect discharge tube and

turn pump by hand again. If still hard turning, problem

is internal to the pump. If it now turns freely, check

piping to tank for obstructions.

EXCESSIVE VIBRATION

Usually due to omission of vibration pads or an

uneven weight distribution on the pads. Check this by

shutting off unit and applying your weight to the dif-

ferent corners of the unit. Excessive rocking should be

shimmed out. In very uneven floors, adjustable levelers

may be needed.

Belt guards often produce a vibrating noise even

under normal operating conditions. Readjusting will

usually eliminate this.

In some cases, the normal operation of the com-

pressor is considered excessive noise or vibration. In

these cases a remote air intake, adjustable pads, and air

line vibration isolators may be required, Isolators are

stocked in the commercial warehouse.

PUMP REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT

Shut off power, drain oil, and bleed down tank.

Remove belt guard, loosen motor mounts and remove

belt(s).

Remove aftercooler tube at pump end. If tube is type

which wraps around crankshaft, then remove both ends

and any hold down straps.

If flywheel is accessible, then remove at this time;

otherwise it can be removed afterward if necessary. The

1/2 HP unit is held on with a keyed shaft and setscrew

and will probably need a puller. All others use a split

hub and key and can be removed by removing hub bolts

and nuts and driving a wedge into split.

Remove pump intake filter and the unloader air

supply line

(3/4

HP and up). Remove pump hold down

bolts and remove pump. (CAUTION: If flywheel has not

75-7131

been removed, its weight may topple pump when the

hold down bolts are removed.)

When installing new pump, be sure flywheel is in line

with motor pulley before removing wedges and tightening.

NOTE: When removing discharge tube connector from

old pump, it is recommended that the male

coupling on the discharge tube be loosely

installed in the connection to prevent its

collapse during removal.

The oil pump is factory ground as an assembly, and

partial replacement is not possible. In the event that the

pump, or crank bearing which is part of the pump, is

deemed faulty, it should be replaced as a unit. The

assembly is held by four bolts (see Fig. 4, front view).

The replacement does not include an oil gauge. If needed,

it must be ordered separately. After reinstallation, the

oil pressure must be adjusted.

K?VKEE

ASSEMBLY

SlDE VIEW FRONT VIEW

3425

Fig, 4. Crankcase and Oil Pump.

INTAKE VALVE ASSY.

WP230

Fig. 6. Air Unloading of Intake Valves on 1HP Units.

75-7131

7483X

AIR UNLOADER

ASSEMBLY

-HEAD

WP230-n

Fig. 7. Air Unloading of Intake Valves on 3/4

Units.

Disconnect power and loosen motor clamping bolts

and slide motor towards unit. If the compressor has a

totally enclosed belt guard, it will have to be removed.

Remove and replace belts. Motor should be held snug

against belts when retightening so that the belt(s) do not

have more than 1/2 inch (12 mm) total play. Make

certain alignment is correct, reinstall guard and turn on

power.

NOTE: Sometimes new belts stretch excessively after

being installed; recheck after one week. See

Data Table.

If motor is considered Af fective, disconnect power

and replace motor. When installing motor, reset belt

tension.

Many motors are dual voltage. Check motor

internal wiring against diagrams on motor or inside

of wiring cover plate for proper connections for

voltage being used.

INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES, UNLOADER

The intake valves, exhaust valves, and unloader

mechanisms can be disassembled for inspection, clean-

ing, or repair in all sizes except the 1/2 HP, The 1/2 HP

unit is a sealed assembly in the head. In the event the

valves are deemed defective in this unit, replace the head

assembly

(Quincy

Part No. 2400-X2P).

On the 1/4 HP unit, remove the two valve locking

nuts in the head and the valve parts can now be removed

for inspection. See Figure 5 for proper order of re-

assembly. The 1/4 and 1/2 HP units have check valve on

the pressure switch and an unloader.

The

3/4

HP unit and larger units have automatic

unloaders on intake valve(s). The unloader for the 1 HP

unit is shown in Figure 6. All other units

(3/4

HP and

up) use the unloader shown in Figure 7. Access to the

intake valves is gained by unscrewing the unloaders from

the head assembly. Exhaust valves can be removed by

unscrewing the hold down caps covering them. See the

Parts List for the replacement numbers for these units.

Fig. 8, Three-Way Valve Assembly (3/4 HP).

Fig. 9. Hydraulic Unloader Assembly.

75-7131

The unloader pilot is located on the crankcase and is

connected to the unloader by a copper line. The

3/4

unit uses a pilot that is mechanically activated. All

others are operated by oil pressure (Fig. 9). The units

should be disassembled and cleaned if they are suspect.

See Parts List for repair kits, if required.

PRV STATION

Some 1/4 to 2 HP units use a Honeywell PP902

PRV. For detailed maintenance and repair information,

see Honeywell Sheet No. 75-2558.

The PRV station used on 3 HP units is a combination

of Pall-Trinity-Micro Corp. filter and Norgren regulator

and relief valve.

To perform any maintenance and repair work on the

PRV station, first shut off air supply from tank. Then,

bleed down system by manually operating the drain

(push red button on drain valve). Note that all valves

and dampers will return to their normal position.

The regulator and relief valve can now be removed

and replaced or repaired in place with the appropriate

repair kit (see Parts

List).

After repairing or replacing, slowly turn air back on

checking for leaks.

PARTS LIST

INTAKE FILTERS QUINCY AIR MAZE INTAKE FILTER

1/4 TO 2 HP

INTAKE FILTER

STANDARD OUTDOOR

5318

Quincy

Part Numbers

HP No. 4363HX

QUINCY # 8839 WITH 8914 ADAPTER

5319

Fig. 10.

75-7131

Fig.

11.

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