Hyperdrive Havoc 2.0 Bedienungsanleitung

J & D Machine / Hyperdrive / MSA

3711 Moon Bend Rd.

Chapel Hill, TN 37034

www.HyperdriveRacing.com

Shown with optional GFR-1017R Body Posts

You now own a state of the art 1/10 scale oval race car. The Hyperdrive

Havoc 2.0 has gone through months of testing by our factory drivers to

insure that you get a car that has maximum performance and

adjustability built in. In purchasing this kit you have not only helped the

hobby and sport of Dirt Oval racing by supporting your local hobby shop

but you have also bought the quality of a Hyperdrive Racing

performance product. How well your car performs is dependant upon the

assembly of your car kit. Take your time and assemble your car as

shown in this manual. This will give you a good starting point from which

you can make adjustments dependant upon the track you are racing on.

The following items are required to complete your car:

• Two channel Surface Radio

• Electronic Speed Control

• Shock Oil

• Tires

• Body

Tools needed in the construction of your car:

• Phillips Screwdriver

• Hobby Knife

• Allen Wrenches;3/32,1/16,5/64 & 0.050

• Pliers or appropriate sized Nut Drivers/Sockets

• 1/8” Reamer or Drill Bit

• Medium Sandpaper

Step #1: Take medium grit sandpaper and lightly

sand all edges of the graphite. Run a small bead of

Super Glue around the sanded edges.

Step #1: Attach nose plate to the chassis using (2)

8-32x7/8” FH and (1) 8-32x1/4” FH.

Step #2: Attach front bulkhead to the nose plate

using (4) 8-32x7/16” FH.

Step #3: Check the fit of the hinge pins. Make

sure the pin will spin freely in both the arms and front

bulkhead. If needed take an 1/8” reamer and ream

Preparation

bulkhead. If needed take an 1/8” reamer and ream

holes until proper fit has been achieved. Attach front

arms to front bulkhead using the 1.43” hinge pins.

Step #4: Check the fit of the hinge pins. Make sure

the pin will spin freely in both the arms and castor

blocks. If needed take a 1/8” reamer and ream holes

until proper fit has been achieved. Attach front arms to

castor blocks using the .98” hinge pins. Make sure the

castor block will rotate freely in arm. The castor blocks

are molded pieces and sometimes are a little tight. If

needed take sandpaper and remove material on the

castor block until proper fit has been achieved.

Step #5: Press the front axle into the steering arm.

Align holes in both the parts so they will allow the king

pin thru.

Step #6: Place the steering arm into the castor block

with a 1/8” plastic spacer between the top of the steering

arm and the top of the castor block. Slide the king pin

thru the castor block and steering arm. Put a 1/16” plastic

spacer over king pin and then put the e clip on.

Step #7: Install ball studs in the middle holes of the

front bulkhead.

Step #8: Using the supplied ball cups and the

turnbuckles, assemble the two camber links. Remember

the turnbuckles have a right hand thread on one end and

a left hand thread on the other. Use a little grease on

each end of threads prior to putting on the ball cup to

make threading them on easier. Reference dimensions

are 2.95” for the right front and 3.00” on the left front.

Press one end on the king pin stud and one end on the

front bulkhead ball stud. Repeat for opposite side.

Step #9: Slide the (2) bell crank risers over the 8-

32 screws. Put a .020” thick washer over the screw.

Press (4) 1/4x3/8” flanged bearings into each side of

the bell cranks. Slide the bell crank standoffs down

thru the bearings. Thread the standoff down to the

risers making sure the washer goes over the standoffs.

Tighten the standoffs against the risers.

Step #10: Using the supplied rod ends and the (2)

.75” long turnbuckles, assemble the two steering rods.

Use a little grease on each end of the threads prior to

putting on the rod ends to make threading them on

easier. Reference dimension from center of rod end to

center of rod end is 2.125” for both the right front and

the left front.

Step #11: Install ball studs in the middle holes of

the bell cranks. Press on the plastic molded tie rod

onto each side of the bell cranks.

Step #12: Using (2) 4-40x3/8” BH screws on the

steering arms and (2) 4-40x3/8” BH screws on the bell

cranks install the tie rods as shown in picture. Tighten

(2) aluminum 4-40 locknuts on the inner 2 screws.

Step #1: Check the fit of the hinge pins. Make

sure the pin will spin freely in both the arms and rear

mounts. If needed take an 1/8” reamer and ream

holes until proper fit has been achieved. Attach rear

arms to rear arm mounts using the 1.79” hinge pins

and (2) .02” brass shims.

Step #2: Check the fit of the hinge pins. Attach

hub carrier to rear arms using the 1.18” hinge pins.

Slide hinge pin from the back of the arm thru the arm

thru (2) .020” thick washers, thru the hub carrier, thru

an 1/8” plastic spacer, and then thru the other side of

the arm. Make sure the hub carrier will rotate freely in

arm. Repeat for remaining arm.

Step #3: Using (4) 4-40x3/8” FH screws install the

rear arm mount to the chassis as shown picture.

Make sure the 0,2 markings are toward the back inner

part of the chassis. Now install the rear tower block to

the chassis with (2) 4-40x3/8” FH screws. Then attach

the rear tower to the block with (2) 4-40x5/16” BH.

Now attach the other tower block to the tower using (2)

4-40x5/16” BH.

Step #4: Using (1) 4-40x3/8” SH attach the rear

camber link spacer to shock tower. Use (1) ball

stud and screw into the camber link spacer.

Assemble rear camber links using (2) rod ends, (2)

ball cups, and the 1.75” turnbuckles. Put a little

grease on each end of threads prior to putting on

the rod end to make threading them on easier.

Reference dimensions are 2.55” for the right rear

and 2.65” on the left rear. Use (1) 4-40x3/8” BH,

attach the rod end to the inner hole on top of the

rear hub carrier. Then press the ball cup onto ball

stud. Repeat for opposite side.

Step #5: Follow instructions for the assembly of

the CVD kit.

Step #6: Insert (2) 3/16x3/8 bearings into hub

carriers. Slide a .050” thick spacer over the axle.

Insert axle thru the hub carrier’s bearings. Put a

.020” thick spacer over the axle. Insert the drive

roll pin. Repeat for opposite side. The hub carriers

are a molded piece and may need to have the axle

shimmed different to achieve the proper fit.

Step #1: Apply supplied grease into the diff ball holes

on the diff gear. Press the (12) 3/32” diff balls into the

holes of the diff gear. Press (1) 5/32" X 5/16" Bearing into

the center of the diff gear.

Step #2: Using the right out drive hub, press the diff

spring into the slotted end of the diff hub followed by the t-

nut.

Step #3: Slide the diff thrust washer onto the 2-56 diff

bolt. Apply a generous amount of grease to the thrust

washer on the side facing away from the bolt head. Now

stick the (6) 5/64” diff thrust balls into the grease on the

thrust washer. Slide the other thrust washer onto the diff

bolt. Use the grease to keep everything in place while

assembling. Slide the bolt assembly into the left out drive

hub without losing any thrust balls. Then insert the bolt

cover.

Step #4: Insert (1) 5/32" X 5/16" bearing into the left

out drive hub. Apply a thin coat of Stealth Lube to both

sides of the diff rings. Now place 1diff ring on both out

drives over the register in the face of the hub. Slide the

diff gear onto the left out drive. Finally slide right out drive

over the diff bolt and onto the diff gear. Tighten the diff

bolt to the t-nut but not all the way. Check to make sure

the diff rings are still in their seat on the out drives and

rotate the diff several times as you tighten the bolt.

Step #5: When the T-Nut reaches the bottom of the

slot, the spring should be fully compressed. Pay

attention to when the spring is fully compressed, you do

not want to over tighten. When the spring is fully

compressed, loosen the diff bolt 1/8 of a turn. Your diff

should spin smoothly.

Step #6: Insert (4) 3/16”x3/8” bearings into

transmission case. Insert (2) 3/16”x3/8” bearings into

the idler gear. Place the idler shaft into the center hole

of transmission. Slide the idler gear over the shaft into

place in the transmission. Using a top shaft spacer on

each side of the shaft gear insert the top shaft into the

transmission case. Place the diff assembly into the

transmission. Make sure the head side of the thrust

bolt is on the same side as the threads on the top shaft

are on.

Step #6:

Take the two halves and press them

Step #6:

Take the two halves and press them

together. Insert the 4-40x3/8 FH into the lower part of

transmission to hold cases together. Press the top

shaft roll pin thru the top shaft centering it. Using the

(3) supplied plastic spacers run (3) 4-40x 1” SH thru the

left side case, thru the spacers and into the motor plate.

Insert (2) 4-40x1/8” set screws into the slipper

eliminator. Then slide the slipper eliminator over the

top shaft and tighten set screws in place.

Step #7: Mount the transmission into the chassis

using (2) 4-40x3/8” FH. Put the (2) .060” thick plastic

spacers between the bottom of the transmission and

the top of the riser plate. Using the two forward holes in

the chassis, mount the transmission. Install the

transmission brace using (4) 4-40x5/16” BH.

Step #1: Using the supplied IRS shocks and

Instructions build the shocks with 30 weight oil.

Measuring from the center of the top cap hole to the

center hole of the ball cup. Make the shock lengths:

Front 2.40” long (short shafts) and the Rears 2.63” long

(longer shafts).

Step #2: Install springs on both front and rear shocks.

The front springs will be the white 4lbs. and the rears will

be the gold 10lbs. springs. Using the adjuster nuts on

the springs seat each spring with just about half of a turn

of tension on them.

Step #3: Locate the front shock tower, and install (2)

4-40x3/4” SH thru the upper middle holes on tower.

Tighten a 4

40 steel locknut down to shock tower. Now

Tighten a 4

40 steel locknut down to shock tower. Now

using (2) 4-40x5/16” BH install front shock tower onto the

front bulkhead. Make sure the screws are facing forward

on the tower.

Step #4: Slide a shock bushing over each of the 4-40

SH with the bigger end facing the nut. Now install the

shocks onto the shock tower by sliding the cap over the

shock bushing and using a 4-40 plastic shock nut to

tighten everything down and in place. Then snap the ball

cup over the ball stud mounted on the top of the front

arms.

Step #5: Install (2) 4-40x3/4” SH thru the upper row of

holes 4th hole from the center of the rear tower. Tighten a

4-40 steel locknut down to shock tower. Make sure the

screws are facing forward on the tower.

Step #4: Slide a shock bushing over each of the 4-

40 SH with the bigger end facing the nut. Now install

the shocks onto the shock tower by sliding the cap

over the shock bushing and using a 4-40 plastic shock

nut to tighten everything down and in place. Then

snap the ball cup over the ball stud mounted on the

back of the rear arms.

Step #1 Opt. Posts: Install (4) 4-40x1/8” set

screws into the bases of the body posts. Slide the

posts into the bases with the turned down side of the

posts sticking out of the bases. Using the body post

swivel mounts and the body clips install the swivel

onto the posts.

Step #2: Install onto the chassis using (2) 4-

40x3/8” FH into the bases of the body posts. Using (2)

4-40x3/8” SH mount the bases to the rear body.

Step #3: Connect the two pieces of the rear body

mount together using (2) 4-40x3/8” BH with 4-40

aluminum locknuts. Now mount the rear body mount

to the rear bulkhead using (2) 4-40x5/16” BH, making

sure the body posts are facing up.

Opt. L/M Bumper: Mount the front bumper with

(2) 8-32x7/16 FH. Then use (2) 4-40x3/8” BH to

connect the body posts to the bumper.

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