Kawai SK-7 Referenzhandbuch

１

KAWAI GRAND PIANO

REGULATION MANUAL

Ver 1.4 2011/7/21

Piano Laboratory

Supervisor Kazuo Goka

２

Regulation Process Index

１ Tighten all Plate Screws・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・P3

２ Strike Point, Keyframe Position ・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・P4

３ Ease Keys ・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・P5

４ Bed Keyframe・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・P7

５ Travel, Angle Hammers ・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・P8

６ Space Hammers to Strings・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・P9

７ Space Levers to Knuckls, Whippens to Capstan Screws ・・・・・・P11

８ Repetition Spring ・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・P12

９ Jack Alignment, Height ・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・P13

１０ Key Height・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・P14

１１ Hammer Blow Distance・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・P15

１２ Hammer Rest Rail・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・P16

１３ Hammer Letoff ・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・P16

１４ Hammer Drop ・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・P17

１５ Key Dip ・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・P17

１６ Back Checks ・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・P19

１７ Back Stop ・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・P20

１８ Repetition Spring (re-check) ・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・P20

１９ Balance Rail Studs・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・P21

２０ Damper・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・P22

２１ Damper Upstop Rail・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・P24

２２ Damper Pedal・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・P25

２３ Sostenuto ・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・P26

２４ Una Corda ・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・P27

３

１．Tighten all Plate Screws

The plate will have countersunk screws which

should be checked for tightness using ratchet

handle with Phillips No. 4 head, or similar. On a

new grand piano the screws should be checked

carefully, because the bolts are lubricated when

installed and can be overtightened. Even on an

older piano we would not expect to get much more

than one quarter turn on some of the screws.

For Shigeru Kawai pianos only, plate screws have 2

types. There are hexagonal head screws around

the outside, countersunk Phillips screws on the

pinblock section. These should be tightened with a

17mm socket for hexagonal screws and Phillips No.

4 head for the countersunk screws, as with the

regular Kawai models.

*Note: Shigeru Kawai pianos now use a machine

bolt around the rim perimeter. This is threaded

into a steel plate support, and should not need to be

tightened.

*Some old Kawai pianos use 14mm screws around

outside and a pin block area.

Caution: Do not tighten the nose bolts.

Other case parts such as hinge screws, music desk

glide screws, lock bar screws, etc. may be tightened

as required.

BE CAREFUL TO NOT OVER TIGHTEN

SCREWS. THEY CAN BE OVER-TURNED OR

BROKEN.

４

２．Strike Point, Keyframe Position

Hammer No. 88 should strike the string 2.16mm

- 3.0mm from the capo bar. The final location

should be chosen by the sound.

To move the action forward glue a shim (thin wood

veneer) onto the hard wood block at the back side of

the Keyframe. To move the action back, file the

wood block. After the block is set correctly, then

adjust the keyframe guides in the cheek blocks to

match.

If most hammers are aligned towards the left from

strings, glue a shim (wood veneer or thick paper) to

the back side of Action Block.

５

３．Ease Keys

3.1 Front hole bushing

While holding the balance rail, check the lateral

movement of the keys in the rest (up) position.

Also check with the keys in the depressed (down)

position. Proper gap should be 0.2 mm to 0.3mm,

with a small but clear “knock” sensation.

Easing a tight front hole bushing using key pliers

3.2 Balance hole bushing

Check the lateral movement of the keys in the rest

position (up) and in the depressed (down) position.

６

Ease any tight balance hole bushings with key

easing pliers.

Lift up the Key back 1 – 2mm and release. It

should fall down slowly by its own weight, without

sticking. For best results, key should fall more

slowly in dry conditions, and a little faster during

humid conditions.

If the key sticks then ease the balance hole. This

process must be done carefully until the key moves

with the desired ease, but is not too loose.

*Do not ease the front and back of the balance rail.

Only ease the sides of the hole by turning the

easing tool inside the key so that the flat surfaces

face front to back, then apply pressure to the hole.

*If the balance hole is loose on the pin, apply a few

drops of alcohol and water (Isopropyl 70%) to the

hole then set aside. Once it is dry, re-fit it to the

pin.

７

４.Bed Keyframe

Raise all of the bedding screws so that they are not

in contact with the keybed.

Place the fingers of one hand against the front rail

and keybed, then tap the keybed with 3 fingers of

the other hand. Listen for a knock noise and feel

for movement between the front rail and the

keybed.

If there are loose areas, pull the keybed out and

trim the tight areas with a plane or sanding block.

As you remove wood from the tight areas, the loose

areas will settle down and become tight

* Note: It is normal for the keyframe front rail to

lift up at the ends during dry weather. Be aware

of the relative humidity when bedding the

keyframe

For the back rail, remove the keys and tap on the

action bracket supports to check for knocking. If

needed, trim the bottom of the back rail at the tight

areas with a hand plane or sanding block, which

will lower the loose areas and eliminate knocking.

Adjust the pressure screw in the cheekblock for

light pressure on the guide pins. This will prevent

knocking of the keyframe during dry weather.

*Note: Keep the balance rail bedding screws

raised until later in the regulation process. This

prevents errors in setting the key height and key

dip.

８

５. Hammer Travel & Angle

Lift a group of hammers by hand or with a straight

edge and look for sideways movement as the

hammers travel upward.

When the hammer was down, the hammer was

evenly spaced. When raised, the hammer has

moved to the side, indicating that it is not moving

straight up.

Place a piece of travel paper between the flange

and hammer rail on the same side of the screw as

the direction the hammer is traveling. Differences

in thickness or length of paper will determine the

degree of correction.

*Note: the travel paper should not be visible once

the flange is screwed back into place.

Check the hammer angle at rest position. If the

hammer molding space is equal but hammer tip is

not equal, the hammer is angled.

９

Checking hammer angle – spaces between

hammers must be equal and parallel at the “rest”

position.

If an error is detected then the shank can be heated

up and then carefully and very gently twisted back

into the correct alignment position.

*Do not use excessive force as this will stress the

flange and possibly damage the bushings.

After the hammer angle is corrected.

６．Space Hammers to Strings

For single and bi-chord notes, the hammers should

be centered under the strings.

*Note: Double-check that the soft pedal is adjusted

to allow the action to return all the way. Press the

soft pedal and insert a strip of paper between the

keyframe and the action stop block. Release the

soft pedal and the keyframe will return and trap

the paper strip. The paper should be firmly

gripped and cannot be pulled out until released by

again pressing the soft pedal.

１０

The contact point of the hammer is centered under

the bi-chord strings.

In the trichord note section the bass side of the

hammer should overlap the left string 1mm.

For easy hammer spacing, put 1mm shim (metal

ruler) between keyframe and action stop block

Use the Hammer flange spacer under the pin block

while looking down between the strings.

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