Makermade Standard Frame Bedienungsanleitung
v 1.5 Updated 8.30.21 ©Maker Made, LLC
The Standard Frame
A guide to assembling the recommended 10ft top beam
frame for our MakerMade M2 CNC Kit.
Set-Up Guide for
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION 1. Intro - 3
SECTION 2. Materials Needed - 4
SECTION 3. Building the Standard Frame
Building the canvas - 5
Attaching the motors - 6
Attaching the stud mounts - 7
Frame legs - 8
Attaching the canvas frame - 10
Leveling your frame -11
Optional skirts - 12
Attaching the chains - 13
Mounting the M2 to your frame - 14
Arduino DUE and shield - 15
SECTION 4. Appendices
Tips and warnings - 16
What’s in the box? - 17
Standard Frame Dimensions - 19
Custom Frame Tips - 20
2
Thanks for buying the M2 CNC Automated Cutting Machine and
welcome to the MakerMade family! The following instructions are
intended for beginners - with no prior CNC experience.
Here are some notes on the layout...
1. Setting up the M2 can be broken down into three main parts: building
the M2, building the frame (or mounting it on an existing Maslow frame),
and calibration. This guide covers the standard frame.
2. I’m Drew and I made this guide! My notes are tips and tricks to help you
along. They are in a different blue font and look like this:
Drew’s Note: Let us know how this guide can be improved. We love to hear from
you!
Drew’s notes are meant to answer some of the “why” questions you might
have and give you tips to get started. We suggest printing the guide in
color, if you want a paper copy.
3. Each step contains written instructions, a visual rendering of those
instructions, color coded pictures of sub-steps or parts needed for that
step, the hardware bag where you’ll find the parts you’ll need, and
underlined words are something that you should write on your frame in
pencil for reference.
We hope you enjoy setting up your kit, happy making!
INTRODUCTION
Here’s me and Spaghetti,
he’s not impressed with CNC
Like this Bag G in
orange
3
The biggest step to starting your M2 CNC adventure is to build the frame that will
hold your material and the M2 while it cuts. The M2 mounts for your frame are
included, but you will need to purchase the following from a local hardware store
to build the standard frame to cut 4ft x 8ft.
Drew’s Note: We recommend reading this entire section before beginning.
ASSEMBLING THE STANDARD FRAME
10ft Standard Frame - Materials Needed
Amount Needed Type Purpose
22in x 4in x 10ft Top and Bottom Beams
22in x 4in x 8ft Vertical Frame Legs
42in x 4in x 4ft Canvas Legs
22in x 4in x 3ft Horizontal Frame Legs
424in x 48in x 5/8in
Particle Board (1/2in thick
particle board, MDF, or
plywood will also work)
Canvas Wasteboards
1 (a second one is
optional)
1in x 6in x 8ft Bottom Skirt and
optional top skirt (see
Part 6)
2 (optional) 1in x 6in x 4ft Side Skirts (Cut a 1in x
6in x 8ft in two, if not
available in your area,
see Part 6)
Tools for
Building
the frame
Tools for M2
operation
Wrench Router
Hammer Dust Collection
System
Phillips
Screwdriver
2 Standard (4-
5lb) Sized Bricks
Drill / Impact
Driver
2+ Clamps
Tape Measure Material to Cut
Speed Square
Level
Pencil
Extra 1.5in and
2in screws
Short/Long frame mounting screws
Bag C and Bag D
Drew’s Note: Nearly every step uses short (1.5in) or long (2in)
wood screws. So, I’m going to leave the bag picture out of the
steps for redundancy’s sake. Just know that you’ll need a lot
of short and long wood screws are from Bags C and D (and
some extras). If you’re experienced with woodworking, feel
free to use any wood screw of your choice to build the frame.
4
1. (A) To build the canvas, lay the four 2in x 4in x 4ft canvas legs on their 2in edges and mark
with the with the word giraffe (or bottom) on one end of each.
(B) Measuring from the giraffe/bottom end on each, draw a line using a speed square at 9in
and 37in.
(C) Position two canvas legs about 4ft apart. Lay one of the 24in x 48in x 5/8in canvas
wasteboard on them with the legs flush with the 48in ends. Use the speed square to make
the wasteboard flush on the 9in line and screw it into the canvas supports with three long
wood screws, evenly spaced on the leg. Repeat with the other two legs with another canvas
wasteboard.
(D) On the 37in line, position another canvas wasteboard with the speed square and use a 2in x
4in board to support the top edge of the waste-
board while aligning and attaching. Using two
long wood screws per side. Repeat with the
other canvas wasteboards and legs to build the
second canvas.
Building the canvas
2in long wood screw
giraffe
giraffe
4ft
2in
Drew’s Note: Labeling the ends of the board ensures that
we are measuring from the same end of each board. This
mitigates small height differences in the 2in x 4in boards,
so the canvas wasteboards are the same height from the
floor on each canvas. I labeled my ends on the canvas
legs, ‘giraffes’ because giraffes are awesome!
giraffe
giraffe
37in (94cm)
9in (23cm)
2in
37in
(94cm)
9in
(23cm)
giraffe giraffe
5
2. (A) Measure the actual length of the 2in x 4in x 10ft beams and mark the exact center of each
on a 4in face. Draw a straight line across the center with the speed square. Write top on a 2in
edge of each and extend the center line around the beam and across the top with the speed
square.
(B) On one beam, write top beam next to the center line. On the other, write bottom beam next
to the center.
3. (A) On the top beam, measure 5ft out from center on each side and draw a straight line with
the speed square on the top edge.
(B) Align the outside edge of the motor mounting brackets flush with the 5ft lines (as shown),
and attach them to the top beam. Use one short wood screw in the front and two in diagonal
holes in the top.
(C) Place one X/Y motor in each bracket, with the black, cylindrical ends toward the center. Use
the motor washers between the bracket and the screw head and fasten the motor screws to the
brackets.
(D) On each motor, attach the motor sprocket by inserting the set screw partially into the gear
hole. Align the set screw with the flat side of the motor shaft, push it all the way down, and
tighten it with 3mm hex wrench to prevent it from slipping.
Attaching the motors
1.5in short wood screw
top
top
center
top beam
bottom beam
motor mounting
brackets
X/Y motors
X/Y Motor
Hardware Bag E
X/Y Motor
Hardware Bag E
top
top
center
5ft 5ftcenter
5ft5ft
top top beam
center
Drew’s Note: If you have Loctite,
placing a bit on this set screw is a great
way to prevent it from loosening over
time.
6
4. (A) On the front face of the top beam, measure and mark 51.5in (130.8cm) from the center on
each side. Draw a straight line with the speed square.
(B) Position a stud mount on the outside of each 51.5in line, with the shorter angle of the stud
mounts toward the top. On one side, push the bottom of the mount against the bottom of the top
beam, use a speed square as a guide to keep it on the 51.5in line, and screw it into the top beam
with four short wood screws. The bottom of the mount should be as flush as possible with the
bottom of the top beam and exactly perpendicular to the beam. Repeat on the other side. Use
the above Drew’s Note for mounting tips!
5. (A) On the front 4in face of the bottom beam, measure and mark 51.5in (130.8cm) from the
center on each side. Draw a straight line with the speed square.
(B) Exactly like attaching to the top beam, position a stud mount on the outside of each 51.5in
line, with the shorter angle of the stud mounts toward the top. On one side, push the bottom of
the mount against the bottom of the top beam, use a speed square as a guide to keep it on the
51.5in line, and screw it into the top beam with four short wood screws. The bottom of the mount
should be as flush as possible with the bottom of the top beam and exactly perpendicular to the
beam. Repeat on the other side.
Attaching the stud mounts
Drew’s Note: For the M2’s alignment calibration
calculation (that’s fun to say), we have to
make sure that the stud mounts are exactly
perpendicular to the beams. To ensure this,
attach each screw part-way before moving
to the next. Repeat on the other two holes and
screw in each from opposite sides by small
increments until they are all tight - just like
changing a tire.
1.5in short wood screw
center51.5in 51.5in
center
51.5in 51.5in
center51.5in 51.5in
center51.5in 51.5in
1.5in short wood screw
stud mount
Side view
stud mount
7
6. (A) Lay the 2in x 4in x 8ft vertical frame legs on the floor, on their 2in edges. Label them
something fun, so you remember that they are, or just vertical frame legs. On each board, write
bottom on one end and top on the other.
(B) Measuring from the bottom end, measure and mark at 55in (139.7cm) , 61.75in (156.8cm), 70in
(177.8cm), and 76.75in (194.9cm) up. Use the speed square to draw a straight line at each mark.
(C) Measure the actual center of each line across the side. Use the speed square to draw a
perpendicular line through the center of the 55in and 61.75in lines. Use the speed square to draw
another perpendicular line intersecting the 70in and 76.75in lines. Repeat on the other leg.
7. Arrange the vertical frame legs parallel on the floor, resting on their 2in edges. Position the
bottom beam on the legs, with the taller ends of the stud mounts flush with the 55in line. Center
the top and bottom holes of the stud mount on the perpendicular center line and attach with the
long wood screws.
Frame legs
Drew’s Note: The actual thickness of your
2in x 4in is around 1.5in. We want to find
the center to ensure that the stud mounts
are mounted perpendicular with the floor
and in the center of your 2in x 4in.
2in long wood screw
bottom
bottom
top
top
8ft
2in
61.75in
70in
55in 55in
61.75in
70in
76.75in 76.75in
bottom
bottom
top
top
55in 76.75in70in61.758in
55in
55in
61.75in
8
8. Position the top beam on the legs, with the taller side of the stud mounts flush with the 70in
line.
Repeat the process of step 7, by centering the top and bottom holes of the stud mount on the
perpendicular line and attaching with the long wood screws.
9. To attach the horizontal frame legs, write back on the ends of the 2in x 4in x 3ft boards. Align
the back end on the inside of the vertical frame legs at a 90 degree angle to make an L shape.
Use the speed square to ensure the 90 angle is square and flush with the back of the vertical
frame legs. Use three long wood screws in a triangle to attach each leg together.
Frame legs (continued)
2in long wood screw
2in long wood screw
70in
76.75in
70in
3ft
Isometric
view
Side view
3ft
Front view
9
~4in
~4in
10. (A) Stand up your frame and push it against a wall. Lean your particle board
canvas from Part One inside of the frame legs. They should be pressed against the
support legs on each side, with about a 4in gap between them.
(B) From the back end of the horizontal frame legs, measure and mark 17.25in (43.8cm) out on
each. Angle the canvases, so that the inside of the angle is on the 17.25in line and the top of the
canvas is flat against the bottom beam. Attach to the canvases to the horizontal frame legs with
two long wood screws on each side.
(C) Attach the top of the canvases to the bottom beam using three evenly spaced short wood
screws on each.
Attaching the canvas Drew’s Note: WARNING: This frame is
designed to lean against a wall for
safety. If it is not against a wall, it could
tip over. For added safety, you can
toenail one of the vertical frame legs
into a stud or use an L-bracket (not-
included), similar to what you would
for an oven safety bracket. Look for a
stand-alone update coming soon.
1.5in short wood
screw
2in long wood
screw
17.25in
Side view
17.25in 17.25in
Left view Right view
10
Dieses Handbuch passt für folgende Modelle
1
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