Nixie Z566 Konfigurationshandbuch
Single Digit Nixie Tube Clock ‘Z566’
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Assembly Instructions
And
User Guide
Single Digit Nixie Tube
Clock ‘Z566’
Software version: 12R
Hardware Revision: 28/08/08
Single Digit Nixie Tube Clock ‘Z566’
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1. INTRODUCTION
1.1 About the clock
Single Digit Nixie Tube Clock ‘Z566’ is a single tube clock utilising a
single nixie tube type Z566M, Z5660M, ZM1040, ZM1042 for the
display. It is a compact design with all components and tube
mounted on a single PCB.
The above types of tube, with a digit height of 30mm, are amongst
the largest nixie tube that can still be obtained in reasonable
quantities. These tubes are principally European in origin and were
produced during the 1970’s and 1980’s, when the technology was
at it’s most advanced. It is expected that the tube will last for very
many years and should not need replacing.
1.2 Clock Features
Single Digit Nixie Tube Clock ‘Z566’ has the following features:
- Hours and Minutes display on a single tube
- Uses the mains AC as the timebase
- Selectable at power-up to work with 50Hz (Europe) or 60Hz
(Americas)
- 12 or 24 hour modes, selectable at power-up
- Simple time setting using two buttons
- Maintains time during setup mode, eg. When changing between
Standard time and Daylight Savings Time
- Three display modes: normal flashing digits , fade-in, and fade-
in-fade-out
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1.3 SAFETY
DANGER: The clock pcb includes a switched-mode voltage booster
circuit. This generates nominally 160 Volts DC, but is capable of
generating up to 300 Volts before adjustment. Assembly may only be
undertaken by individuals who are suitably qualified and experienced in
electronics assembly, and are familiar with safe procedures for working
with high voltages. If in doubt, refer to a suitably qualified engineer
before proceeding.
The voltages generated by this circuit can give a potentially
LETHAL ELECTRIC SHOCK.
DISCLAIMER: This product is supplied as a kit of parts, intended only for
suitably qualified electronic engineers, who are suitably qualified and
experienced in electronics assembly, and are familiar with safe
procedures for working with high voltages. The supplier, his agents or
associates accept no liability for any damage, injury or death arising from
the use of this kit of parts.
This is not a finished product, and the person assembling the kit is
responsible for ensuring that the finished product complies with any
applicable local regulations governing electrical equipment, eg. UL, CE,
VDE.
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2. TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT REQUIRED
2.1 Tools required to assemble the PCB
The following tools will be required to assemble the PCB:
-Soldering iron with a small tip (1-2 mm)
-Wire cutters (TIP: A small pair of nail clippers works very well
for this function)
-Wire strippers (TIP: A small pair of scissors is quite suitable)
-Multimeter
-Small flat screwdriver for adjusting the high voltage supply
2.2 Materials you will need
Solder – lead / tin solder is preferred. Lead – free solder, as now
required to be used in commercial products in Europe, has a much
higher melting point and can be very hard to work with.
Desoldering wick (braid) can be useful if you accidentally create
solder bridges between adjacent solder joints.
2.3 Other items you will need
The clock kit does not include a power adapter. This is because the
kit is sold to many countries around the world, each with very
different household mains outlet socket types. It is more efficient
for the user to buy a suitable adapter locally. This saves shipping a
heavy adapter with the kit, and also the extra costs of managing
stocks of many varied power adapters.
The type of power adapter can be obtained at very low cost. The
following type of adapter should be obtained and used with the kit:
Mains AC to AC adapter (This is important, as the AC signal is
needed for the timebase)
Output 9-12V AC
Minimum power output capability of 250 mA
Output plug: 2.1mm pin
A suitable adapter is shown in figure 1 below:
Figure 1
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3. LIST OF COMPONENTS
3.1 Table of components (In sequence)
Circuit
Designation Part Description
Resistors
R1 390K, ¼ Watt
R2 2.2K, ¼ Watt
R3 33K, ¼ Watt
R4 10K, ¼ Watt
R5 100R, ¼ Watt
Capacitors
C1 470uF, 16-25V, Electrolytic
C2 100uF, 16-25V, Electrolytic
C3 100nF ceramic
C4 330pF ceramic
C5 1uF, 250V, Electrolytic
C6 22nF, ceramic or polyester
C7 100nF ceramic
Transistors
Q1 IRF730 N-Channel MOSFET
Diodes
D1-D4 1N4001
D5 1N4936 fast recovery diode
D6 5.6V Zener Diode
Integrated Circuits
IC1 78L05 5V voltage regulator
IC2 MC34063A boost controller
IC3 PIC16F627A 8 bit
Microcontroller
IC4 74141 / K155N Nixie driver
Miscellaneous
L1 100uH – 220uH Inductor
NX1 ZM1042 Nixie tube or equiv
SW1, SW2, SW3 Miniature push button
VR1 1K Potentiometer
PCB PCB
IC Socket 18 Way IC Socket for IC3
CONN 2.1mm DC connector female
Cable ~60mm two way cable
SKT1-11 1mm Harwin solder-in
socket
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3.2 Parts list / Packing sheet
Part Description Quantity
Resistors
33K, ¼ Watt 1
10K, ¼ Watt 1
2.2K, ¼ Watt 1
100R, ¼ Watt 1
390K, ¼ Watt 1
Capacitors
470uF, 16-25V, Electrolytic 1
100uF, 16-25V, Electrolytic 1
1uF, 250V, Electrolytic 1
330pF ceramic 1
100nF ceramic 2
22nF, ceramic or polyester 1
Transistors
IRF730 N-Channel MOSFET
1
Diodes
1N4001 4
1N4936 fast recovery diode 1
5.6V Zener Diode 1
Integrated Circuits
78L05 5V voltage regulator 1
MC34063A boost controller 1
PIC16F627A 8 bit
Microcontroller 1
74141 / K155N Nixie driver 1
Miscellaneous
100uH – 220uH Inductor 1
ZM1042 Nixie Tube 1
Miniature push button 3
1K Potentiometer 1
PCB 1
IC Socket, 18 way DIL 1
2.1mm DC connector female
1
Cable – 60mm piece 1
1mm Harwin solder-in
socket 11
It is recommended that the kit is checked against the list above, to
ensure all parts are present before commencing assembly.
Single Digit Nixie Tube Clock ‘Z566’
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3.3 How to identify the correct components
Resistors:
The resistors are easy to identify by the coloured bands
across the cylindrical body. Using a multimeter it should will
be possible very quickly to identify the different values.
Capacitors:
Take care when identifying the 2 small ceramic or polyester
capacitors. Depending on part availability, 2 or more different
types may be supplied. The 22nF capacitor (C6) may be
marked 22nF, 22n, or 223.
Transistors:
The MOSFET Q1 can easily be identified as it has a large
metal heatsink. Note: Due to part availability, this part may
be substituted for a different but equivalent part number so
the part marking may not necessarily be IRF730
Diodes:
The four 1N4001 diodes Q1-Q4 are black and are marked
1N4001. 1N4007 diodes may be supplied instead. The other
black diode is Q5, and again due to part availability it may be
substituted for an equivalent.
D6 is the small, glass bodied diode.
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4. ASSEMBLY OF THE PCB
4.1 Diodes D1-D4
Start by bending the leads of the four diodes to approximately
match the spacing of the holes on the PCB. Insert the four diodes
taking care to match up the white bands on the components with
the component marking on the PCB. See Figure 2 below.
Figure 2
Solder in the diodes, then using the wire clippers trim off the leads.
4.2 IC1, IC2
Align the flat on IC1 with the marked flat on the PCB. IC2 must be
oriented correctly. The notch or dot at one end corresponds to pin
1. This goes into the SQUARE pad. Solder both components in and
trim the leads of IC1.
Figure 3
Single Digit Nixie Tube Clock ‘Z566’
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4.3 C3, C4, D5
Take care to place D5 with the white band on it’s body aligned with
the white band marking on the PCB.
Figure 4
4.4 C1, C2 and C5
Now it is time to solder in the three electrolytic capacitors. These
components must be placed the correct way round or else the
circuit will fail. Each capacitor has a positive lead, which has the
longer lead, and a negative lead, marked by a white or grey stripe
on the body. In Figure 5, the longer lead (+ve) and white stripe (-
VE) can be clearly seen.
Figure 5: C5, C2, C1
Place each component with the longer lead on the hole marked ‘+’.
Solder in and trim the leads. See figure 6 below:
Single Digit Nixie Tube Clock ‘Z566’
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4.5 Inductor L1
Place L1 in position, and ensure it is as close to the board as
possible. The leads of the component may not match exactly the
spacing on the board – this is perfectly normal. You can slightly
form the leads so it is a nice firm and snug fit to the board. Solder
and trim the leads as short as possible.
4.6 R1, R2, VR1.
Bend the leads of the resistors as show in figure 7 below.
Now place and solder in R1, R2 and VR1 as shown:
Figure 7: Resistor
leads formed for
mounting upright.
Figure 6: Correct
placement of C1, C2,
C5
Figure 8: R1, R2, VR1
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