PhotoShip One MkTR v2 Bedienungsanleitung

MKTR V2 CAMERA MOUNT

anks for purchasing an mkTR v2 multicopter camera mount. e mkTR v2 is a two axis camera mount with servo

driven roll and tilt axis for cameras as large as Canon 550D or similar. Each axis is proportional allowing for the use of

the Mikrokopter Camera Stabilizer feature on Flight Control (FC) boards by Mikrokopter.

Assembly of the mkTR v2 should take approximately 2 hours. You will need the following tools:

2.0mm Allen hex driver

2.5mm Allen hex driver

3/32” Allen hex driver

5.5mm nut driver

Phillips screwdriver

Slot screw driver

Small hammer

Heat gun or butane lighter

CA glue

180 & 400 sandpaper

File or Dremel tool with cut oﬀwheel and small grinding bit (2 or 3mm)

Let’s begin assembly of the mkTR v2!

Because the tilt axis is gear driven yet needs to be proportional control we must modify the tilt servo to accommodate an

external potentiometer.

Remove bottom from DS16FCD servo. Pull top off servo to expose gears. Remove gears as shown.

Grind away molded tab on ﬁnal output

gear. Be careful not to grind into gear

When complete the gear should look like

this. It is important not to grind into the

teeth of the gear.

Next we will work on removal of the servo

potentiometer.

With a small hammer tap the potentiometer

down into the case of the servo.

Remove the motor/PCB from the servo

bottom to gain access to potentiometer.

Remove the motor and PCB from the servo

bottom to gain access to potentiometer.

Separate the motor/PCB and

potentiometer from the servo case.

Clip the wires to the potentiometer and

discard the potentiometer.

This is the potentiometer you will use for

the servo. This potentiometer also acts as

the tilt axis axle.

Grind away the metal tab on the

potentiometer with a ﬁle or Dremel.

The potentiometer should look like this. Solder the wires from the PCB to the

potentiometer. Pay attention to the

placement of the wires. W/R/B.

Grind or ﬁle a slot in the servo case to allow

the potentiometer wires to exit.

Assemble the case as shown. Assemble the case as shown. It is

recommended to put a liberal amount of

white lithium great into the top gear section.

This will allow for smooth motion of the

servo at slow speeds.

Place the top on the servo and screw the

servo back together.

Install the output gear onto the servo output

shaft and secure with washer and screw.

Sand the sides of the servo with sandpaper

so that CA glue will stick the servo to the

gimbal arches.

Once sanded the servo should look as

shown.

This completes servo modiﬁcation.

CAMERA ARCH ASSEMBLY

Using four 15mm threaded spacers and

M3x6 screws, assemble the arches as shown.

Once complete stand the arch up and check

for squareness. Loosen screws and adjust as

required. It is important the frames be

square to each other.

It is advised to install spacers on one side

ﬁrst then attach the other frame second.

These are the pieces to be installed at the

bottom of the arches. They are the axle and

potentiometer plates.

Install the axle plate in the corresponding

slots in the arches. They may ﬁt tightly.

This is normal. Tap with a small hammer

or mallet if required.

A hammer is used to tap the piece into the slots. Because of the thickness tolerance of the

material varies, you may need to sand a bevel into the edges of the piece for proper ﬁt into the

slots.

Axle plate installed.

Now you will install the servo and

potentiometer into the arches. Install the potentiometer into the plate and

secure with nut. Use threadlock.

Install the potentiometer plate in the

corresponding slots in the arches.

Secure plates with CA glue. Be careful not

to use to much or you will glue the shaft of

the potentiometer and ruin it.

Now you will work on the gear drive for tilt

axis. Find these parts.

Snap the plastic gear onto the aluminum

hub. It may be a tight ﬁt. Then screw the

set screw into the hub only a few threads.

Slide the hub/gear onto the potentiometer shaft. Temporarily tighten the set screw.

Slide the servo up in between the arches. Place the servo such that the gear mesh of

the servo pinion and potentiometer main

gear have no slop or backlash. Not too tight

however! Also the servo gear must be

parallel to the main gear.

This shows proper installation of the

servo.

Now drop some CA glue into the slots to

secure the servo into position. It is recommended to put silicone glue into the joint between the potentiometer and

servo to secure the wires from being pulled loose or collecting debris.

Now you will assemble the camera tray. As

with the potentiometer and axle plates, the

ﬁt may be tight. This is normal. Tap with a

small hammer if needed.

Install M3x10 screws and M3 nuts to secure

the side plates to the main tray.

Now you will install the camera tray to the

arch assembly. Gather up three M3x12

screws, one M3 nut, and a washer disc.

Place the washer disc between the gear and

the camera tray sideplate. Two M3x12

screws will go through the sideplate and the

washer disc and thread into the gear hub.

Be sure to tighten the set screw in the

aluminum gear hub. The set screw locks

the potentiometer shaft to the main gear.

Once complete the assemble will look as

shown.

Secure the opposite end of the camera tray

with a M3x12 screw and 3 nut. Do not

tighten this screw/nut to tight. The camera

tray should be able to tilt freely.

This completes the arch assembly.

LANDING SKID ASSEMBLY

Gather eight ﬂange ball bearings from the

kit. These are used in the roll axis. Insert the

aluminum spacer into the bearing and

secure with threadlock. The ﬂange of the

bearing must face the ﬂange of the spacer.

The bearings are mounted with two

M3x12 screws. Slip a bearing onto the

screw, then thread the 8mm hex spacer Be

sure the ﬂanges of the bearings face AWAY

from each other.

You will install a total of four bearings in

the upper portion of the landing skids.

Install the opposite side frame and secure

with another M3x12. Now install six 23mm threaded spacers.

Use M3x6 screws to secure.

When complete the assembly should look

as follows.

Threaded spacer shown installed. Now install the remaining four bearings

and spacers. This will now capture the

arch in the landing gear via the bearings.

Now ﬂip the landing skids upside down

and drop the arch assembly down into

the skids and rest it on the bearings.

Refer to the above detailed photos. It is important that the arches ride in between the ﬂanges of the bearing. The bearings can be adjusted

closer or further to the arches because the holes for the screws for them in the landing leg frames are slotted. It is IMPORTANT to properly

adjust the bearings against the arch for smooth motion but not so loose as to cause the arch to not be captured by the ﬂanges of the bearings.

This step is very IMPORTANT for a smooth operating roll axis. It is worth the extra time and patience to be certain the roll axis operates as

designed in a smooth motion with little to no slop. If the roll action feels “notchy” or un-smooth, you will want to sand the edges of the roll

arch with some 400 grit sandpaper to smooth them. The machining process can sometimes create small imperfections and cause un-smooth

motion. By sanding you will polish the edges smooth for perfect roll motion. This is usually not required but for a custom and perfect gimbal it

is recommended.

Now install the other DS16FCD servo as

shown for roll axis. Use M3x10 screws and

M3 nuts.

These parts are for the roll axis control

from the servo.

Install the servo output hub to the roll

control horn. The slot in the horn may

need to be ﬁled slightly so an M3 screwcan

slide smoothly.

Now slip a M3x22 screw through the arch

holes and through the roll control horn.

Secure with an M3 nut. Sometimes the

screw ﬁts tightly into the slot of the control

horn. If so you may slightly ﬁle open the

slot in the horn for a custom ﬁt.

Install the roll control horn onto the servo.

Be sure the horn is vertical when the servo is

centered.

M3x22 screw and nut shown installed

through arches and roll control horn.

FINAL ASSEMBLY

Install four rubber grommets into the large holes in the top of the landing skids as shown.

Install the landing skid tubes through the

landing gear legs and secure with the

rubber stoppers. You may need to slightly

ﬁles the holes of the skid legs to get the

tubes to slide through.

Two carbon tubes, four end ﬁttings and

four pieces of adhesive lined heat shrink

are used in the next steps. The end ﬁttings

may require sanding of the edges to snugly

ﬁt into the carbon tube without splitting it.

Slip a piece of heatshrink over the end and

heat with heat gun or butane lighter. Heat

enough so the adhesive inside the heat

shrink tube begins to show at the ends.

Repeat the process of installing the other

ends on the carbon tubes with heat shrink.

BE SURE BOTH ENDS ARE ALIGNED

WITH EACH OTHER.

Now slide each carbon tube through the

grommets as shown.

When complete the assembly will look like

this.

Install the isolators on the carbon tube

ends. Orient them facing downward as

shown.

Now you will install the rubber ball mount

isolators. For cameras over 500gr. You may

ﬁll the inside of the isolators with clear

silicone adhesive. Doing so will double the

weight capacity of the isolators.

Next install the battery tray plates onto the

opposite end of the rubber ball mounts.

Both battery tray plates shown installed.

Now install the four long threaded spacers

onto the battery tray plates. These are the

spacers that will mount to the MK frame.

Use M3x6 screws.

This is a representation of the lower MK

Hex frame mounted to the top of the

mkTR gimbal.

This concludes assembly of the mkTR two axis camera mount. Thanks for your business with PhotoShip One.

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