page 2 of 2Install Guide Rev. C
likelihood of interference low, this may help reduce hum and RF
interference. When securing the cable, use care not to staple or
nail the electrical conductors. Doing so could result in a short
that might damage the electronics.
When connecting your speakers, make sure proper polarity
(phasing) is maintained. Simply put, this means being sure
the same wire which is hooked to the positive terminal of the
amplier has its other end hooked to the positive terminal of
the speaker. It is important to check this on all speakers. If the
connections on one of the speakers are reversed, (out of phase)
the quality of your bass will be seriously impaired.
INSTALLATION
If the speaker locations have not yet been established then do
so now. Assess the ceiling or wall area for possible concealed
obstructions such as wiring, plumbing, heating ducts, etc. For
the ceiling this is best done through an attic crawl space if
available. Absence of a crawl space will require greater study of
observable clues and may possibly require the use of inspection
holes and inspection tools (camera, mirror, ashlight, etc.). Use
a “stud nder” to locate the positions of the joists or studs. We
recommend that the edge of the speaker holes be at least ¾"
(19mm) away from joists or studs whenever possible to allow
clearance for the toggle clamps.
Once the speaker locations are established use the cardboard
template (the outside of the inner cardboard disk) or the plastic
compass provided with your speaker to draw the speaker cut-
out. The hole diameters for the various speakers are marked on
the compass. The cardboard templates may also be used as a
visual aid for placement of the speakers. Temporarily hold the
templates in place with a push tack or tape.
Using the proper tool, cut the appropriate
sized hole in the wall. On drywall, clean
cuts can be made with a drywall saw. Cut
the hole to the inside of the drawn circle.
If the cable has not yet been run, do so now
that you have access to the ceiling or wall's
interior. Once the speaker cable has been run, pull the end of the
cable out of the speaker cut-out, strip back a section of the jacket
as needed, and then expose ½" (13mm) of each conductor.
To aid in speaker performance, a brous material, such as
berglass or polyester ber, may be placed behind the speaker.
This may also help to reduce unwanted sound from being
transmitted into adjoining rooms. If the ceiling space has blown
or loose insulation, it is important to prevent the insulation from
entering the back of the speaker. This can be accomplished by
placing a batt of berglass insulation, fabric barrier, or bag over
the back of the speaker. Alternatively
you may use an Insu-Flate ISF-147,
which is an acoustically transparent
fabric cover specically designed
for this application. Placing a rigid
enclosure behind the speakers can
be done but the enclosure should
be large enough not to degrade the
performance of the speaker. Rigid enclosures of less than 0.75
cuft (21 liters) should be stuffed with acoustic insulation such as
berglass.
Remove the diffraction rings using the supplied wire tool,
inserting it at one of the notches, and pulling gently outward.
As the drawing shows, the speakers utilize Toggle Clamps which,
after tightening, hold the speakers in place. Ensure that the
toggle clamps are rotated into their
“Home” position. This way, they will
clear the edge of the cut-out.
Verify that the speaker ts properly into
the cut-out. If the hole should have
been cut a little too large the ange on
the speaker should cover this. Remove
the speaker from the hole.
Connect the wire conductors to the
terminals on the back of the speaker
by depressing each spring terminal, inserting the wire into the
hole, and releasing the terminal. Use care to observe the proper
polarity (+ & -). Speakers wired out of phase will exhibit an
apparent loss of bass response.
Note: Single-Point speakers have both the left and right channel
connections on the same speaker. Ensure that both channels are
connected and in phase. An out of phase connection to a single-
point speaker will be immediately obvious when signal is applied
since there will be little if any bass output. If disconnecting one
of the inputs increases the bass output then the inputs are out of
phase.
Insert the speaker into the hole and tighten the four toggle
screws. As you start to turn each screw the toggle clamps will
rotate outward to engage the ceiling or wall material as shown.
CAUTION: DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN THE CLAMPS. Too much
torque may damage the toggle, causing the speaker not to seat
securely. A snug t is all that is necessary to assure proper
performance.
The grilles can be painted using multiple light coats of paint.
Certain paints will require thinning to avoid clogging the grille’s
perforations. It is not necessary or recommended to remove the
scrim cloth from the back of the grille prior to painting.
If your speaker includes a pivoting tweeter aiming it toward the
listening area will raise the amplitude of the highest frequencies
(>12kHz), adding brilliance. USE CARE TO AVOID DAMAGING THE
DOME OF THE TWEETER WHEN AIMING!
The mid and high frequency levels can also be adjusted as
desired on speaker models that include mid frequency (MF) and
high frequency (HF) switches.
Attach the diffraction rings and the grilles to the speakers and
enjoy. Should you wish to remove the grilles from the speakers
pull at the grilles' edge. Initially there will be a signicant
resistance because the grilles are magnetically attached.
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ISF-147
Tighten 4
Phillips screws
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