Sealife DC2000 Bedienungsanleitung

Great Pictures

Made Easy

with the Camera

Capture the Magic

As a scuba diver, you have encountered coral reefs teaming with strange

creatures and vibrant colors that appear as if they were from another planet.

You know what it’s like to oat effortlessly without gravity. You have learned to

use your eyes to see and experience the underwater world, one of the greatest

miracles on earth.

You capture these treasured moments with your underwater camera to relive the

adventure and share your experiences with friends and family. Of course, there is

no better way to tell your story than with pictures and videos

As the manufacturers of SeaLife, we believe that an underwater camera will help

divers and non-divers to experience and see a part of our world which is essential

to our survival. We hope that you will enrich and enlighten your life by capturing

valuable impressions in the underwater world with your SeaLife Camera.

Over the last 25+ years of developing underwater cameras and lighting systems,

we have received countless images - many of which have been posted to the

SeaLife website Photo/Video Gallery.

While underwater photography certainly has its challenges, we found that most

poor pictures are the result of not following a few simple and basic principles.

When you understand and apply these basics, your results will greatly improve.

I. Basic Camera Settings

II. Underwater Basics

III. Restoring Lost Colors

IV. Taking Underwater Photos without a

Flash or Photo/video light

V. Taking U/W Photos with a Flash or with a

Flash and Underwater Photo/video light

VI. Taking U/W Photos with a Photo/Video light

VII. Focusing Tips for Taking Sharp Pictures

VIII. Basic Tips for Taking Great Pictures

IX. Underwater Video

X. Using Manual Mode Underwater

XI. Alternative DC2000 Camera Modes

XII. Recommended Menu Settings

XIII. Take Your Photography to the Next Level

Table of Contents

Photo by Tobias Friedrich

I. Basic Camera Settings

II. Underwater Basics

This guide will teach you the basic principles of

underwater photography and how to take great

underwater pictures with your SeaLife camera.

Before you start, you should read through the

camera’s instruction manual and become familiar

with the basic camera settings and button controls.

Download the Instruction Manuals Here

Follow this link to a helpful video about the DC2000

There are a few important differences between underwater and land photography

that you should know.

Water is about 800 times denser than air.

As you descend deeper into the water,

the light conditions become darker. The

water absorbs red, orange and yellow

color, which makes everything look blue.

The diagram to the left demonstrates

the effect water has on light and color

as depth increases. That is why many

underwater pictures turn out blue. There

are a couple of ways to restore lost colors,

which are explained later in this guide.

a. Light and Color

Coral, sponges and most other underwater

sea creatures are bursting with colors.

Brilliant reds, vivid orange and bright yellows

highlight the underwater world. These intense

colors help to camouage the sea creatures.

Since red and yellow colors are absorbed by

the water, the sea creatures appear colorless

unless you bring a light with you and uncover

the hidden treasure of colors.

b. Effects of Water Refraction

Water has a magnifying effect. Objects underwater appear 33% larger and closer

than they actually are. It tricks you into underestimating your shooting distance. One

important rule for achieving colorful and sharp underwater pictures is to keep your

shooting distance within 6ft/2m or within the effective range of your ash or photo-

video light. 4ft/1.5m or closer is better. An adult’s arm is approximately two feet long,

so if your subject is more than one and a half to two arm lengths away, it’s too far for

your ash/photo-video light to be effective. Get closer or change the camera to the

Dive or Snorkel mode (See Page 9).

This Angelsh appears 2ft/60cm

away but is actually 3ft/1m away This sh appears inside of 6ft/2m,

but is actually 8ft/2.4m away

Expand your viewing angle with a SeaLife 0.5x Wide Angle

Dome Lens or the 0.75x Wide Angle Conversion Lens that

compensates the underwater magnifying effect and allows

you to get closer to the subject and still t everything in the

picture. These lenses are ideal for shooting still images as well

as videos. They can be installed or removed underwater.

Using a Wide Angle Lens allows you to get closer to the

subject so that you will be within the effective range of your

external ash or light.

The above two pictures demonstrate why you should not use the camera’s

internal ash unless you are taking close-up macro (within 12”/30cm) pictures

in crystal clear waters. The camera’s internal ash is not very powerful and

positioned too close to the camera’s lens, so it’s only useful for close-up pictures.

No matter how clear it may look underwater, there are always plankton and tiny

particles suspended in the water. You may not see the particles with your eyes, until

you light them up with a ash or photo-video light. The small white dots that appear

in your underwater pictures are called “backscatter”. The closer the ash or light is

positioned to the camera lens, the more backscatter you will see.

c. Backscatter

The external ash is positioned very close to

the camera lens. Notice all the backscatter

in the top of the image.

Here, the external ash is positioned away

from the camera lens. There is practially no

backscatter.

The DC2000 features a built-in Flash Diffuser into the housing. The same

location allows you to mount the included ash link adapter and optical

cable(s) when shooting with an external ash.

Underwater photography using an external ash (strobe) or photo-video light with

a Flex-Connect Arm results in the brightest, sharpest most colorful pictures, with

minimal or no backscatter because the light source is positioned away from the

camera lens.

Positioning the ash or light next to the lens (Figure 1) illuminates the front of the

particles facing the lens. Positioning strobe away from lens (Figure 2) illuminates

the sides of particles not visible to the lens.

Figure 1 Figure 2

How to Avoid Backscatter

• Avoid using the camera’s built-in ash unless shooting close-up macro

pictures in clear water.

• Use an external ash or photo-video light positioned away from the lens,

which produces the brightest, sharpest and most colorful pictures while

minimizing backscatter.

• Keep your shooting distance within 10% of your visibility. If the visibility is

30ft/10m, limit your shooting distance to 3ft/1m.

• ISO settings of 200 or higher are much more sensitive to backscatter when

using an external ash and/or photo-video light.

• Don’t stir up the sand and debris on the bottom. Control your buoyancy.

III. Restoring Lost Colors

Blue pictures are the most common complaint among beginning underwater

photographers, but it’s easy to improve. Here are two primary methods to bring

back the lost colors absorbed by the water:

Method 1

Use the SeaLife Sea Dragon Digital Flash and/or Photo-Video light accessory

(sold separately)

Taken without ash - image

lacks color

Taken with ash to reveal the

vibrant colors

From left to right: SeaLife DC2000 Pro Flash Set (SL745), SeaLife DC2000 Pro 2500 Set (SL744),

SeaLife DC2000 Pro Duo Set (SL746) with ash and 2500 lumen photo-video light mounted

on Flex-Connect dual tray.

Method 2

Use SeaLife underwater color-correction modes

If you do not have an external ash or photo-video light, you can use the DC2000

camera’s built in color-correction lter to restore lost colors. Set the camera to

Dive Mode for depths greater than 25ft (8m) or Snorkel mode for shallower wa-

ter. Dive mode will add a little more red and yellow to the image than Snorkel

mode. These color correction modes work well in water depths less than about

60ft, where the ambient light conditions are not so dark. At greater depths, there

is a complete absence of reds and yellows, so color correction modes/lters are

not so effective. An external ash or photo-video light is the most effective way to

restore color at any depth or ambient light condition.

What’s the difference between an external ash and photo-video light?

• A ash (or strobe) can only be used for still photos, not video. A photo-video light can be

used for photos and videos, as well as viewing in low light.

• An external ash is typically brighter and has longer range than a photo-video light. The Sea

Dragon Digital Flash has an effective range of about 6-8ft, while the Sea Dragon 2500

Photo-Video light range is about 4ft, depending on visibility and ambient lighting conditions.

• A photo-video light is easier to use than a ash because the camera “sees” the effect of the

light and automatically adjusts exposure accordingly. What you see is what you get. With a

ash, the camera won’t see the light until the ash res, which typically requires some

ne-tuning of the ash brightness to optimize image exposure.

• A photo-video light can also be used as a focusing light to assist the camera’s auto focus

system in lower light conditions.

Normal underwater picture at 25ft without Dive Mode

With Dive Mode color correction - restores lost colors

IV. Taking Underwater Photos Without an

External Flash or Photo-Video Light

Now that you have learned how water affects underwater pictures and how

to restore lost colors, let’s learn how to take the best underwater pictures

without an external light source. Even if you are using a SeaLife external ash

or photo-video light, this information will be useful for taking photos and video

with subjects further away.

1. Set the camera’s scene mode to Dive Mode [or Snorkel Mode] –

a. Turn the Mode dial to the icon

b. Push the Menu key

c. Scroll down to “Underwater Scene Modes” and push “OK” button

d. Scroll up/down to select Dive (or Snorkel) mode and push “OK” button. The

Scene mode is saved when powering off the camera.

e. The rst thing you will notice is that the viewing image on the LCD display

appears red in color. That’s the effect of the underwater color correction

lter. Underwater, the viewing image will look natural. In Dive/Snorkel mode,

the camera automatically turns the Flash off to help avoid backscatter.

Picture taken at 25ft/8m without Dive Mode Picture taken at 25ft/8m with Dive Mode

Photo by Tobias Friedrich

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