WOODENTIMES QUARTUS Bedienungsanleitung

QUARTUS

International and Federal Copyright Laws and Treaties. Any unau-

thorized reprint or use of this material for commercial purposes

is prohibited. Except for the personal, non-commercial use of the

retail purchaser no parts of these plans may be reproduced or

transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechani-

cal, including photocopying, or by any information storage and

retrieval system without express written permission from the au-

thor / publisher.

©David Atkinson 2011

Thank you very much for buying the Quartus clock kit. A lot

of thought and design have gone into the Quartus, and I hope you

enjoy building it. If you have any questions, suggestions or even

criticism please get in touch, per e-mail , I will respond as

soon as possible.

Remember the old adage “Do in haste, repent at leisure”. Your

clock will last a life time, which will give you more than enough

time to look at a botch job because you could not wait to finish

the clock. So please take your time and give the best you can, it

is more than worth it.

Happy building!

Yours David Atkinson

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION 5

THE FRAME 8

DRIVE ARBOR 11

MINUTE ARBOR 16

INTERMEDIATE ARBOR 1 18

INTERMEDIATE ARBOR 2 19

ESCAPEMENT ARBOR 20

TESTING 21

HOUR TRAIN 22

ANCHOR ARBOR 24

PENDULUM 26

GET TICKING 29

PLAN & SHEET PLANS

INTRODUCTION

Before you start building the Quartus I recommend you read the

complete instructions, and just familiarise yourself with the

building process.

You should in any case watch the tutorial video, that you can

find on my web site.

http://www.woodentimes.com/tutorials.html

It contains lots of tips and tricks, and is an integral part of

these instructions.

Part Notation

All parts have a suffix which correspond to the numbers on the

plywood sheet plans found at the back of these instructions.

For example if you need the minute hand which has the suffix 31B

you will find it on sheet B number 31.

Only break out the piece you require as you need it.

Before You Start

What You Need

Wood Glue

There are many types of wood glue on the market, but I have al-

ways had good results with a standard PVA wood glue (white glue).

Before it dries it can be removed with a damp cloth and dries

transparent.

Epoxy Resin

I use a 2 component quick drying epoxy resin.

Sand Paper

Shop around for good quality sand paper, the sheets you mostly

get at the local hardware store are of such bad quality that af-

ter one or two uses the grit has become unstuck and you are just

left with some expensive paper. The best kind is cloth backed, a

good source for this are the belts used for belt sanders.

Drill Press

If you have a dedicated drill press all the better, but of course

a drill stand and electric drill does the job just as well.

INTRODUCTION

Spring Clamps

You need a minimum of 2, just make sure they have jaws long

enough to span 6cm-2¼.

Screw driver

Standard slot-head medium screw driver.

Needle Files

Not an absolute must, but will be required if you do not have a

belt or disc sander.

Lead Shot

Your lead shot should be of smaller diameter, if the diameter is

too large you will not be able to pack in enough.

Treating

Obviously the treating of your clock is very much a question of

personal preference, you could even make your finish match your

curtains/drapes. You may even have a pet finish, which is why I

will just mention the finished I used.

I used an acrylic, teak coloured, water based varnish, with a

matte finish. The advantages of acrylic are its quick drying time

(hand dry within 5 mins), lack of fumes and the brush can be

cleaned with water.

I sanded all the parts smooth with 180 grade sandpaper, then ap-

plied the first coat. As water will raise the grain, I pretty

much sanded all the varnish off until I got a smooth surface.

Then repeated the process, it will take about 2-3 coats before

the surface remains smooth. It took about 6 layers until I got a

deep lustre with even colouring. And you would have to look

closely to see that it is not solid wood.

I treated just the frame, pendulum bob and hands. Be wary of

treating the cogs as a varnish on the teeth connecting surfaces

will eventually wear off and literally clog the works, if you

want to varnish, mask off the teeth surfaces with masking tape,

and remove any “creeped” in varnish. I never treat the cogs, as I

think they look best untreated and with birch the yellowing is

minimal.

If you do decide to treat the frame, remember to remove the fin-

ish from the inside of frame arbor holes, as this could stop your

clock from working. You could use the supplied ⌀4.2mm drill bit.

INTRODUCTION

Quantity Item

3 Plywood parts sheets

1 Frame back and front

2 ⌀20mm dowel spacers

1 ⌀30mm dowel winding barrel

1 ⌀8mm/12.5cm-5” dowel

2 50cm-20” lengths of ⌀4mm brass rod *

1 72mm-2.835” length of ⌀6mm brass rod

4 ⌀3.5mm/20mm brass screw

6 ⌀3mm/10mm brass screw

1 Brass washer

1 ⌀2mm/30mm brass rod

6 Couplings **

2 Stop rings **

1 ⌀4mm/10mm grub screw

1 ⌀45mm-1¾” washer

1 2m length of weight string

1 1.5mm allen key

1 2mm allen key

1 ⌀4.2mm drill bit

1 Weight shell (optional)

List Of Materials

* Use one length of the rod for the pendulum and the other for

the arbors. The total length needed for the arbors is 32cm-12.6”

so you will have 18cm-7” spare in case you need to remake an ar-

bor.

** Be careful when tightening/loosening the set screws you really

only need a half turn, too many turns and it could fall out and

land on the floor, and believe me once they have hit the deck

they mysteriously become transparent and can not be found :-)

THE FRAME

Firstly fit the pendulum ful-

crum 36C into the top of the

frame front. Because a round

bit does not cut square holes,

you will have to round off the

corners of the fulcrum.

The fit should be tight enough

to hold the fulcrum in place,

but not so tight as to prevent

removal. Here you can see the

frame inside showing the te-

non´s rounded off corners.

Do not glue in the fulcrum yet,

as this would hinder the treat-

ing of the frame.

THE FRAME

Glue the spacers 37C and 38C

onto the back frame rear side.

Make sure frame and spacer

holes align.

Insert both ⌀20mm dowels into

the frame recesses. If the fit

is too tight sand the ends

slightly thinner.

Predrill the holes for the

⌀3mm/20mm brass screws. Use a 2

- 2.5mm (5/64”-3/32) bit.

Counter sink the screw heads,

to prevent tear out put your

drill into reverse. It will re-

quire more force but will give

you a smoother sink.

Also counter sink the 2 wall

mounting screw holes.

THE FRAME

Screw in all four screws, but

be careful as brass screws can

break if the torque is too

much, if the hole is too tight

re-drill wiggling the drill

slightly.

That is the frame finished , you can assemble the whole clock and

treat your frame at a later stage, or you could do so now.

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