Audio Control Architect 1160 Montageanleitung
®
6
ÒBus Select Switches – The switches below each
zone’s local input jacks select the input source for
that amplier zone. If the switch is in the “Local”
position, the zone receives audio signals from the
local input. If the switch is in “Bus 1” or “Bus 2”,
audio signals come from the appropriate “Bus”
inputs. Whenever a Bus Input is selected, the zone
input can be remotely triggered to the local input
using the 12 volt Local Trigger input (see #6 on
previous page).
Ó Local Inputs - These unbalanced RCA inputs
connect to your preamplier’s outputs. Any stan-
dard line level audio signal can be connected to
these inputs.
AC Power Fuse - The Architect is designed with
several layers of protection circuitry. The main AC
power fuse is here just in case something really
awful goes wrong. There are no internal fuses in
this amp.
Power Cord The Architect™ draws a maximum
of 1600 watts at full power. Make certain that it
is plugged directly into the wall outlet or a power
strip with sufcient power rating. Since the Archi-
tect has remote power switching, you should plug
the unit into an AC outlet that is always active.
Master Power Switch - This switch shuts off the
main AC power. Normally the only time you need
to turn the master power switch off is if the system
is going to be shut down for an extended period of
time.
Remote Power Control - This three pin connector
allows you to remotely turn on the Architect. You
can either use a contact closure between the Trigger
In and the +12V output or an external 12 volt trig-
ger between the Control In and Ground terminals.
The +12 volt output is not designed to power other
pieces of equipment.
Ground Lift Switch – This switch selects the
level of isolation between the audio signal ground
and your AC earth ground. In normal operation
this switch should be in the Ground position, but if
you run into trouble with an AC ground hum, try
the other two settings for the best operation. For
your safety, the chassis is always connected to the
earth ground regardless of the switch setting.
Remote Power control (1/8” jacks) - These mono
1/8” jacks are wired parallel to each other and
work in conjunction with the 3-pin remote power
connector. Either 1/8” input can receive a 12-volt
trigger which will turn-on your Architect amplier.
This will then allow the unused jack to output 12
volts that can be used to turn-on a second ampli-
er. If your using the 3-pin connector to trigger
the Architect, both of the 1/8” jacks can provide
output trigger
A Guided Tour Of
The Architecttm 1160 Series
Ò Ó
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1514 13 12
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ARCHITECT
Model 1160/1161
Installer’s Guide
™
7
Hooking Up Your System
What you’ll need:
1. The Architect™ Model 1100 Series Amplier.
2. RCA audio hook-up cables.
3. Small blade screwdriver for terminal blocks
4. (Optional) A balanced line driver (of course we recom-
mend the AudioControl BLD-10 and BLR-10) if you are
going to mount the Architect more than 20 feet from the
preamp.
5. Enough speaker wire to reach all of your speakers.
6. Multi-zone audio controller, receiver, or preamplier.
7. Although you can set the speaker optimization controls
by ear, a real-time audio analyzer such as the
AudioControl Industrial SA-3052 is very helpful.
8. An RJ-45 10BaseT Ethernet connection cable.
(Optional - Architect Model 1161)
Hooking Up Your
System
BLR-10 and BLD-10 Balanced Audio Drivers send audio over CAT-5. Extends
high quality audio up to 1000’.
SA-3052 Real Time Audio Analyzer
®
Installation:
The Long Version
8
Installation: The Long Version
What follows is a step-by-step guide to integrating the Ar-
chitect into your multi-zone system. If it seems overly detailed,
please forgive us. We would rather tell you too much than too
little.
First, check your new Architect for any shipping damage. We
pack ‘em pretty securely, but it’s a vicious world out there and
anything can happen between us building them here in Mountlake
Terrace, Washington and your installation.
PAPERWORK
Yes, lling out the warranty registration card is about as excit-
ing as cleaning out your sock drawer, but we’d denitely like the
card back after you’ve hooked up the Architect and played with it
a while. We DO read each and every incoming card and react to
your suggestions. That’s how great products like this are created.
Next, record the serial number on the sales receipt and make
certain the home owner puts it away in a safe place. Stashing the
receipt away is very important in the unlikely event that your
Architect ever needs servicing, or…well things do happen…you
need to prove to an insurance adjuster that something as great as
the Architect was installed in the system.
PLACEMENT
The Architect Model 1100 Series is a very efcient amplier,
but it does need some breathing room to operate properly. Make
certain that the air vents on the rear and sides of the Architect are
not blocked and have at least ½” of air space. Also make certain
that heat sensitive components such as CD or Tape players are
not directly on top of the Architect. Just as a reminder, you should
avoid putting any leaky pipes above the audio equipment stack.
A benet of having remote power control on the Architect is
that you can install it in another area of the house (such as a base-
ment or utility room) away from the main component stack. Make
certain that you use a good quality audio line driver to extend the
RCA cables if you choose this type of installation.
POWER
Under normal operating conditions, the Architect Model
1100 Series ampliers can draw up to 1600 watts of AC power.
Don’t plug it into a switched outlet on your system unless you
are certain that it can handle the power rating. Also, please don’t
cut off the ground pin on the power connector. It is an important
ARCHITECT
Model 1160/1161
Installer’s Guide
™
Installation:
The Long Version
9
safety feature. If you need to plug it into a two prong outlet, use
a ground adapter (and connect the ground on it). If you have a
ground noise problem, try the ground lift switch on the rear panel.
REMOTE POWER CONTROL
The Architect has several means of power control:
• Main AC Power switch- This is the master control and
must be turned ON for the Architect to function. When the main
power switch is on, the blue Power LED on the front panel lights
up. Normally the only time that you would need to turn the AC
power switch off is when the system is going to be unused for an
extended period.
• Remote 12 volt Power Trigger - This removable 3-pin
remote connector on the rear panel allows simple interfacing with
external control systems. It accepts either a contact closure or ex-
ternal +12 volts DC. (see diagram) The two-color Protection LED
on the front panel illuminates Blue to show that the remote power
control is active.
•Mini Jack - Your Architect is equipped with two mono 1/8”
jacks which are wired parallel to each other and work in conjunc-
tion with the 3-pin remote power connector. Either 1/8” input can
receive a 12-volt trigger which will turn-on your Architect ampli-
er. Additionally the unused mini jack jack can then output 12
volts that can be used to turn-on secondary amplier. If you are
using the 3-pin connector to trigger the Architect, both of the 1/8”
jacks can provide output trigger.
• Ethernet Control - If you have the Architect Model 1161
with the Ethernet control port you have remote control over the
ampliers power from almost anywhere in the world via the Inter-
net. This is also very useful on a more local sense for integrating
the amplier with a home automation system via Ethernet. Do
not use the 12v trigger if you are controlling the Architech via the
ethernet.
• Signal Sensing - Another level of amplier control is the
Signal-Sense circuitry. This provides individual channel muting
control. When active, it senses that an audio signal is present on
the RCA inputs then enables the power and unmutes that zone.
The zone status LEDs on the front panel light up Blue when a
signal is present.
In some installations it may be desirable to defeat the signal-
sense control and leave all zones active regardless of the audio
input. To defeat the signal-sense, press in the Signal-Sense Defeat
button on the rear panel
Installation Hint: If your
installation doesn’t require
this remote power turn-on, you
must put a short piece of wire
between the +12 V
output and the
Trigger In pins.
Warning - Always
connect the safety
earth ground. If
you have an AC
hum problem, use the ground lift
switch
Note: Do not use the 12 volt power
trigger if you have an ethernet
controlled unit. The power turn on
is controlled by the ethernet.
®
10
AUDIO HOOK-UP
If you’re an installation veteran, this may seem repetitive, but
some things can never be repeated too many times.
1) Turn off ALL components before making any connections.
2) When making connections, designate RED RCA plugs as
RIGHT and WHITE, BLACK, or GREY plugs as LEFT. In
fact, this is a good idea for ALL signal connections made in
your audio system. The key is consistency. Stick with the same
color-coding and you’ll reduce possible problems.
3) Whenever possible, keep power cords away from signal cables
to prevent induced hum. This is especially important if you
bundle the cables to keep the installation neat looking.
4) Use quality interconnect cables. We’re not going to get
into the debate about whether $100/meter cables improve the
sound, but we know from experience that really, REALLY
cheap cables
can cause a
multitude of
problems.
They tend to
break inside
or corrode,
causing a
loss of sig-
nal or hum. They also have
poor shielding.
5) If you need to run the
RCA audio cables more than
20 feet you should consider
using an active balanced line
driver for the signals. This
will provide better noise
rejection against nasty things
like hum, spikes, local talk
radio, etc. The AudioControl
balanced line driver compo-
nents (BLD-10, BLR-10 and
BLX-10) are an excellent
way to send audio over long
distances with standard Cat-
5 wiring. Check them out at
audiocontrol.com.
Installation:
The Long Version
Using Bus Inputs
to Create Larger Zones
ARCHITECT
Model 1160/1161
Installer’s Guide
™
WHOLE HOUSE SYSTEM WITH
TUNER ONLY BACKGROUND MUSIC
11
Installation:
The Long Version
®
12
Installation:
The Long Version USING THE 12V TRIGGER FOR
LOCAL SOURCE SELECTION
ARCHITECT
Model 1160/1161
Installer’s Guide
™
SPEAKER HOOK-UP
The same rule applies to the speaker wires as the RCA con-
nections. Establish a standard connection color code and stick
with it. One conductor of the speaker wire is normally marked
by a different color (silver versus copper) or there is a ribbing on
one side. Typically this marked conductor is used for the positive
(+) speaker leads. Of course the really good wire has Positive and
Negative printed right onto the wire jacket.
Your choice of speaker wire gauge and the length of the runs
also affects the speaker impedance load presented to the ampli-
ers. As you can see in this table, even fairly short speaker runs
can have signicant resistance if you use a smaller wire gauge.
This can be a benet if you are paralleling lots of speakers. The
wire itself acts as an impedance limiter, since the amplier can-
not see a speaker load lower than the resistance of the wire. The
downside of this resistance in the wire is that you waste some part
of the total power available to the speakers.
See the appendix for information about bridging the Architect
into mono operation. (Page 25)
Congratulations! You’re done with the audio hook up. Now
for the details of operation…
Speaker connection wiring
Installation:
The Long Version
25’ 50’ 100’ 250’ 500’
24 GA 1.3 Ω 2.6 Ω 5.1 Ω 12.8 Ω 25.7 Ω
22 GA 0.8 Ω 1.6 Ω 3.24 Ω 8.1 Ω 16.0 Ω
20 GA 0.5 Ω 1.0 Ω 2.0 Ω 5.0 Ω 10.1 Ω
18 GA 0.3 Ω 0.6 Ω 1.28 Ω 3.2 Ω 6.4 Ω
16 GA 0.2 Ω .4 Ω 0.8 Ω 2.0 Ω 4.0 Ω
14 GA 0.1 Ω .25 Ω 0.5 Ω 1.26 Ω 2.5 Ω
12 GA 0.08 Ω .16 Ω 0.32 Ω 0.8 Ω 1.6 Ω
13
Speaker Wire Resistance Wire Gauge versus Run Length
®
Equalizing the System
Equalizing the System
Before proceeding on to setting up the Speaker Optimization
controls on the Architect, it’s a good idea to make sure that you
have everything connected and working properly.
1. Double-check all connections. Make certain that all of the
audio and speaker connections are rmly seated and tightened
down.
2. Turn on your audio system. The Power LED on the Architect
should be Blue, the Protection LED should be Blue (after a
few seconds of Red on startup) and (unless you have defeated
the Signal-Sense) the Channel Status LEDs should be off.
3. Start one of the audio sources playing and send that signal
to the Architect (how you do this depends on your particular
multi-room system). The zone status LED should illuminate
Blue within one second after the music begins.
4. Check each speaker output zone to ensure that each one plays
properly.
5. With all the speaker loads turned on, turn up the volume and
make certain that the channel status LEDs on the Architect stay
Blue. If they slowly toggle between Blue and Red, then there
is either a short in the speaker wiring, or the combined speaker
load is too low.
Congratulations! You’re ready to go on to setting the Speaker
Optimization controls.
The following are examples of typical settings of the
Architect™ Model 1160/1161 Series Speaker Optimizer
controls. Naturally, the results of adjustments will vary
depending on the individual acoustic environment, the
type of speakers, and the personal preferences of the
listener. These recommendations are not concrete, they
are simply good starting points.
Note: For the absolutely
best results, The speaker
optimizer controls on The
Architecttm Model 1160/1161 should
be adjusted with a real time analyzer
such as the AudioControl Industrial
SA-3052.
14
Example Settings
SA-3052
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