Connect the remote gain controller to the amplifier. This is optional and not essential.
The plug will slot straight in to the “Remote” socket on the amplifier. The cable needs to
be sufficiently hidden out of view as it is run to the intended mounting point (usually on
the under side of the driver’s side dashboard). It is important to mount the controller in
an easily accessible location, however it must not hamper the driver in the operation of the
vehicle while driving.
Once you have checked that all the connections are good and solid, re-connect the
negative terminal of the battery. If anything goes wrong, disconnect it immediately and
investigate. The amplifier’s power LED should be lit. If not, or the protection LED is lit,
please refer to the “Troubleshooting” section.
Finally, all that is left to do is calibrate the amplifier with the source unit:
1. If using the remote gain controller, turn the knob fully clockwise to “MAX”.
2. Turn the gain knob on the amplifier all the way down
3. Play a CD or similar of music or audio that will be typically played
4. Turn the gain control on the source unit to around 70 – 80% of it’s maximum
5. Slowly increase the gain knob on the amplifier until you can hear distortion
6. Turn the gain knob on the amplifier to just before this distortion occurs (if no
distortion can be heard, this is fine!).
7. Test the system and make any equalisation changes on the source unit or the
amplifier according to taste, it may take some time to adjust all the amplifier
settings to get the most from the setup.
8. If any equalisation changes are made, repeat stages 1 to 7 until satisfied
9. Never exceed the source unit gain that you used to calibrate the system
Remember: It is possible for the amplifier gain knob to be at only a quarter of its
maximum, but the amplifier is actually outputting to its full potential. This could be
because the source unit is supplying slightly more input power than normally expected.
needs to be protected from damage. Failure to protect it from damage could lead to a
vehicle fire. When you have been able to feed the cable to the inside of the car, try to
hide the cable as well as possible on its way to the amplifier (under carpet, or inside
panels).
The TL-1101 kit includes a connector already installed on the end of the power cable for
connecting it to the amplifier. Un-tighten the power (B+) terminal of the amplifier, slide
the connector in, and then tighten. If not using the TL-1101 kit, or cutting the cable to
length, strip the end of the cable and slide the end into the power terminal of the amplifier.
Competition Pro amplifiers are capable of delivering extremely high power levels.
Therefore tight, reliable and clean power connections at both ends are very important, and
ensure maximum performance.
Connect the earth (-) (or ground) cable (0 AWG black cable, 0 AWG minimum) to a
solid, bare metal point on the vehicle’s chassis. A common place for this is the boot catch;
however any existing substantial bolt or screw that makes contact with the car’s body near
the amplifier is sufficient. If there is no existing point, you can make one by drilling into
the car’s body. This should be done carefully as a last resort, ensuring that none of the
car’s electronics or any other component is going to be damaged. A clean connection is
needed, so scraping away the paint for the connection is required. The length of the earth
cable needs to be a short as possible, the one supplied with the TL-1101 kit will connect
straight to the negative amplifier terminal, the other end has a ring connector installed and
is to be bolted to the earthing point.
Connect the remote cable (thin blue wire) from the source unit (head unit’s) remote
output. This is called a variety of things including “remote”, “aerial”, “electric antenna”,
“REM” and “remote turn on”. To do this you will need to have access to the back of the
source unit; it will need pulled out. Please refer to the source unit’s manual to find the
right wire to use.
When the remote cable is attached to the remote output of the source unit, leave the
source unit pulled out for the moment, and run the remote cable to where the amplifier is,
down the same side of the vehicle as the power cable. As with the power cable, try to hide
it under panels and carpet. Slide the connector into the “REM” terminal and tighten.
Connect the audio signal lead (RCA phono lead) to the “line level” or “pre-out” of the
source unit. The pre-out of the source unit should be in the form of two RCA phono
sockets. Simply plug your lead into the sockets, ensuring red goes to red, and white (or
black) goes to white (or black). Then run the lead all the way to the amplifier. To
minimise noise, please ensure that the audio signal lead is run well away from the power
leads. It is normally best to run it down the opposite side of the car. If the cables
are too close, a high pitched whine can get into the system; this is engine noise.
If your source unit has no pre-outs, it is probable that it is not of sufficient quality to work
well with the amplifier; if it is giving poor quality audio then the amplifier will simply
amplify this poor quality audio. However, if a line output converter is purchased, it would
convert speaker outputs to a line level and enable you to operate the amplifier. As
mentioned, the output may not be of a great quality.
Connect the subwoofer speaker cable from your subwoofer(s) to the amplifier. Some
subwoofer configurations are illustrated on page 5, please see your subwoofer manual for
in-depth connection configurations. It is advisable to cut the subwoofer speaker cable to
size. Never connect or disconnect subwoofer(s) when the amplifier is on; you risk
permanently damaging the subwoofer(s).
