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Copyright 2005 Crutchfield Corporation
Planning ahead:
Choosing your location according to these guidelines will help your installation
go smoothly:
• The amp should be at least three feet from the radio to avoid noise radiated
from the vehicle’s electrical system. If it's closer than three feet, the amp can
also interfere with the receiver’s AM/FM reception.
• An amp produces some heat during operation, which its heatsink absorbs
and radiates, so it needs a few inches of air space to stay as cool as possible.
When mounting an amp on a side wall, make sure the fins on the heatsink are
vertical. Never mount an amp upside down, as dissipated heat will radiate back
into the amp.
• There must be enough room on either side to make the wiring connections and
adjust the controls (gain, crossover, bass boost, etc.).
Good locations include:
Under a seat.
• Pros: Closer to the radio, so you can often use shorter patch cables and signal
cables, which are less prone to noise and signal degradation. Closer to the front
speakers, so running wire to them will be easier. No cargo space sacrificed.
• Cons: You may have to remove the seat to do the installation. Larger amps might
not fit. You must elevate the amp to avoid contact with water from rain or snow
brought in on passengers’ shoes.
On the firewall (passenger side).
• Pros: Short wires and patch cords required. You won’t have to remove a seat or
climb into the trunk.
• Cons: Only very small amps fit here. Closer to some common noise sources.
In the trunk or hatch area (mounted on the floor, side wall, or the back of the rear seat).
• Pros: Plenty of room for large amps. Near the rear speakers and subwoofers.
• Cons: You sacrifice some cargo space. Longer wires and patch cords required. If
working in the trunk, tape over the latch so you won’t get trapped inside accidentally.
IMPORTANT: Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for mounting the amp
and make sure it’s secure. An amp that isn’t secure could break loose in an
accident and injure a passenger as it flies through the vehicle.
Making the Power Connections
1. Following your Crutchfield MasterSheet™ (available for most vehicles) or
owner's manual, set the parking brake and disconnect the negative termi-
nal from your battery to prevent any electrical short.
2. Remove the red power wire from your amp wiring kit (usually 16-20 feet
in length). Locate a hole on the firewall; most cars have a pre-drilled one
you can use. If not, you’ll have to find a good place to drill one. If you have
problems, contact Crutchfield technical support at the phone number
listed on your invoice. Once you’ve found or drilled a suitable hole, run
the power wire through the hole into the engine compartment.
3. The red power wire from your amp wiring kit may have a fuse holder
installed. If so, go to step 4 (next page). If not, find a good spot close
to your battery to place your fuse-holder (included in the kit) — less than
6" from the battery is best. Cut a short piece off the end of the power
wire (to cover the distance from the battery to the fuse holder location),
and strip the insulation off both ends with a wire stripper.
Crimp the terminal ring (included in the kit) onto one end of the short
piece of wire, and crimp the fuse holder onto the other end. Strip the
insulation off the end of the red power wire that leads into the passenger
compartment, and connect it to the other end of the fuse holder.
Route the red (power)
wire from your amp
wiring kit through a
hole in your vehicle’s
firewall.
Fuse installed on
power wire, and
secured in engine
compartment.
Always be careful when drill-
ing or cutting in a vehicle. Be
aware of things such as wiring,
windows, fuel lines, and safety
devices. Check drilling/cutting
depth and location to avoid
damage to vehicle appearance.
CAUTION:
!
