FuzzDog Blue Fool Bedienungsanleitung

Blue Fool

Octave-down fuzz fun from

this MXR Blue Box clone

PedalParts.co.uk

BOM

R1 2M2

R2 150K

R3 1M

R4 470K

R5 1K

R6 56K

R7 10K

R8 1M

R9 56K

R10 10K

R11 1M

R12 10K

R13 56K

R14 56K

R15 56K

R16 56K

R17 56K

R18 56K

R19 1M

R20 56K

R21 56K

R22 56K

R23 330R

R24 1M

R25 100K

R26 10K

R27 390R

RLED 2K2 (CLR)

C1 10n

C2 1n

C3 330p

C4 10u elec

C5 47n

C6 47n

C7 10n

C8 1u elec

C9 1u elec

C10 100u elec

C11 10u elec

C12 100u elec

C13 100n

C14 220n

D1-3 1N4148

IC1 4558

IC2 CD4013

Q1-3 2N3904

Q4 2N5088

BLEND 50KA

VOL 100KA

SW1 SPD (ONON)

Schematic

Green shaded area is a LPB

boost circuit to bring the

signal level up to above

unity. his isn’t in the

original circuit.

he switch selects between

2-octaves down (original)

and 1-octave down (mod).

Wiring shown overleaf will disconnect the battery when you

remove the jack plug from the input, and also when a DC plug is

inserted.

nap the little metal tag off the pots to mount them flush in the

box.

You should use some kind of heat sink on the legs of the diodes

and transistors when soldering. They aren’t keen on heat. Any

more than 3-4 seconds of iron and they’re toast.

I’ve incorporated the Current Limiting Resistor for the LED into

the board for your pleasure.

The switch mounts on the underside of the PCB. You can then

mount the whole board in the enclosure using it. Nice!

I recommend not leaving the switch until last - it can be

awkward to get the soldering iron in once all the components

are in place.

VOLUME - kinda self explanatory. The LPB boost I’ve

incorporated into the circuit will give you plenty of punch

BLEND - between Fuzz and Octave signal.

1 2 3

WITCH

This is optional, but

why wouldn’t you

include it?

If you want to take it

out, connect the switch

pads in one of these

combinations:

2-OCTAVE DOWN

(ORIGINAL)

- connect pads 1and 2

1-OCTAVE DOWN

- connect pads 2and 3

est the board!

Once you’ve finished the circuit it makes sense to test is before

starting on the switch and LED wiring. It’ll cut down

troubleshooting time in the long run. If the circuit works at this

stage, but it doesn’t once you wire up the switch - guess what?

You’ve probably made a mistake with the switch.

older some nice, long lengths of wire to the board connections

for 9V, GND, IN and OUT. Connect IN and OUT to the jacks as

shown. Connect all the GNDs together (twist them up and add a

small amount of solder to tack it). Connect the battery + lead to the

9V wire, same method. Plug in. Go!

If it works, crack on and do your switch wiring. If not... aw man.

At least you know the problem is with the circuit. Find out why, get

it working, THEN worry about the switch etc.

YRET

NI UO TU

Wire it up

The Board GND connections don’t all have to directly attach to the

board. You can run a couple of wires from the DC connector, one to the

board, another to the IN jack, then daisy chain that over to the OUT jack.

It doesn’t matter how they all connect, as long as they do.

This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be Tip

Negative / leeve Positive. That’s the same as your standard pedals

(Boss etc), and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.

Now... rattle those speakers!

PedalParts.co.uk

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