Norcold 322 Series Montageanleitung

Norcold Repair Guide

Models 322, 323 Section 12

Table of Contents

Page 12-2 Specifications & Operating Limits

12-2 General Instructions

12-3 Electrical Connections

12-4 Description of Operation

12-5 Lighting & Start-Up Instructions

12-6 Preventative Maintenance

12-7 Troubleshooting

12-17 Removal & Replacement Procedure

12-22 Wiring Diagrams

General Information and Specification

Operating Limits - Models 322, 323

AC Mode: 132 VAC Max., 108 VAC Min.

DC Mode*: 15.4 VDC Max., 11.5 VDC Min.

Gas Mode: 11" W.C. Gas Supply ±0.5" W.C.

10.5" W.C. Min. Burner Pressure

(High Fire)

Models 322, 323 Ratings

LP Gas Mode: 640 BTU/Hr Input

11" W.C. Gas Supply

.010" Orifice (LP10)

AC Mode: 110 Volts AC, 140 Watts

DC Mode*: 12 Volts DC, 140 Watts

Current Draws - 322, 323

AC Heating Element - 1.3 amps @ 110 Volts AC

1.4 amps @ 120 Volts AC

DC Heating Element* - 11.7 amps @ 12 Volts DC

13.6 amps @ 14 Volts DC

* 3-Way Models Only (Model 323)

General Instructions - Models 322, 323

The refrigerator described herein is designed and

certified for built-in installations.

Model 323 is shipped from the factory as a 3-Way

model to operate on propane gas, 120 volts AC or

12 volts DC.

Model 322 is shipped from the factory as a 2-

Way unit to operate on propane gas or 120 volts

AC electric.

To confirm that the installation is adequate, check for:

a. Adequate ventilation (See Section 2 on "Ventila-

tion Requirements").

b. Both gas and electrical components installed

and operating in a safe condition.

c. Adequate seal between refrigerator mounting

flange and cut-out opening.

d. Installed on a solid floor (not on carpet) and se-

by screws through holes provided.

THIS REFRIGERATOR IS NOT INTENDED TO BE

OPERATED AS A FREE STANDING UNIT (I.E.

WHERE THE PRODUCTS OF COMBUSTION ARE

NOT COMPLETELY SEALED OFF FROM THE LIV-

ING AREA) OR INSTALLED IN SUCH A WAY AS

TO CONFLICT WITH THESE INSTALLATION IN-

STRUCTIONS. UNAPPROVED INSTALLATIONS

COULD RESULT IN SAFETY RISKS OR PER-

FORMANCE PROBLEMS.

Fuse Replacement Data

(Refrigerator Control Panel)

AC Circuit: 3 amp Type 3AG (1 1/4" x 1/4")

Norcold Part No.: 61654622

DC Circuit: 20 amp Type 3AG (1 1/4" x 1/4")

Norcold Part No.: 61440522

Gas Circuit: None

WARNING

Information About Electrical Connection

TABLE 1

12 Volt Supply Wiring & Fuse Size

2-Way Models 3-Way Models

min. wire

size max. fuse

size min. wire

size max. fuse

size

0-20’ 18 AWG 6 Amp 12 AWG 20 Amp

over 20’ 18 AWG 6 Amp 10 AWG 30 Amp

Electrical Connection - 120 Volts AC

The refrigerator is equipped with a three prong plug

for protection against shock hazard and must be

connected into a recognized three prong attachment

receptacle. The free length of cord is 24". The cord

must be routed so as not to come in contact with the

burner cover, flue pipe or any other component that

could damage the cord insulation.

DO NOT REMOVE (CUT) GROUNDING PRONG

FROM THE REFRIGERATOR AC POWER CORD.

REMOVAL OF THIS PRONG CAN RESULT IN A

SEVERE ELECTRICAL SHOCK, AS WELL AS

VOIDING THE REFRIGERATOR ELECTRICAL

CERTIFICATION AND WARRANTY.

12 Volt DC Supply Connection

A 12 volt DC supply connection is only necessary if

the refrigerator is a 3-Way model - either a Model

323 or a Model 322 with the DC option added by a

dealer. Both the AC and GAS modes operate with-

out a need for 12 volts.

If the 12 volt connection is required, the negative

connection from the battery is connected to terminal

5 on the terminal block and the +12 volt from the

battery is connected to an in-line fused wire which,

in turn is connected to terminal 6. See wiring dia-

gram at the end of this section. Both negative and

positive supply wires require 1⁄4" female quick con-

nect terminals.

See TABLE 1 for supply wire and fuse sizing. The

wire size is determined by the DC load (heater draw)

and the distance the current must travel from the

battery. Should the wire size be too small, a result-

ing voltage drop reduces the heater wattage and the

cooling capacity in the DC mode. The refrigerator is

designed to operate at full cooling capacity, unlike

other RV refrigerators which operate at a reduced

capacity to conserve battery drainage. The DC heat-

ing element has a continuous current rating of 11.6

amps @ 12VDC.

WARNING

Operation

The controls are designed so that each mode of

operation is independent of the other. All electricity

could be cut off and the refrigerator still operate in

the GAS mode. 12 Volts is not necessary to operate

the control circuit.

Gas Mode

The GAS mode uses a thermocouple system to

produce a self-generating power (milli-volts). The

Thermocouple, when heated by the burner flame,

produces enough milli-volts to hold the safety valve

open. A loss of flame de-energizes the safety valve

and shuts the propane gas down.

An Interrupter device is coupled in series with the

thermocouple so that the milli-amps cannot flow to

the Safety Valve (part of the Control Valve) until the

Interrupter contacts are shunted (jumpered). The

shunt is provided by the Selector switch when it is

switched to GAS mode.

The Selector switch not only serves as a mode se-

lector but also as an interlock between modes so

that two sources of power cannot be energized si-

multaneously.

The GAS mode utilizes an adjustable GAS con-

trol. The control can be manually adjusted to me-

ter the fixed amount of propane gas to the burner

thereby acting as a temperature control to main-

tain cabinet temperature.

Important: Unlike an automatic gas control, this con-

trol does not cycle the flame from high

fire to low fire as with other types of RV

refrigerators. If the cooling load changes,

the GAS control must be manually ad-

justed to maintain the same temperature.

The gas ignition method uses a piezo spark ignitor

- requiring a manual ignition of the burner. See the

Lighting Instructions.

Electric Modes

The AC mode, and DC mode in the case of the 3-

Way model, is thermostatically controlled by a non-

adjustable thermostat. The Thermostat has a capil-

lary sensor attached to the cooling fin. The electric

heater (AC or DC) will cycle in response to the fin

temperature to maintain the cabinet temperature.

Lighting and Start-Up Instructions

DO NOT HOLD GAS VALVE (D) IN MORE THAN 30 SECONDS, IF FLAME IS NOT INDICATED WITHIN THIS

TIME, TURN GAS TO OFF, WAIT 2 MINUTES AND RETRY. CONTINUING TO HOLD GAS VALVE IN WILL

CAUSE GAS BUILD-UP IN THE BURNER AREA AND CAN RESULT IN AN EXPLOSION WHICH CAN CAUSE

PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH.

Lighting Instructions - Gas Operation

1. Open the lower vent door on the outside rear of

the vehicle to gain access to the rear of the re-

frigerator. Open window on front side of Burner

Box to view the burner shown in Figure 8.

2. Set the Energy Selector Switch (A) to the GAS

position.

3. Set the Gas Control Selector (D) to the HIGH

COOL position.

4. Ensure that the manual shut-off valve is open.

See location in Figure 1.

5. While pushing the Gas Control Selector switch

(D) in, press the spark ignitor push-button (B) in,

several times in rapid succession (A click should

be heard each time it is depressed.). The burner

should light; however, continue to hold the Gas

Control Selector (D) in for another 15 seconds

before releasing.

6. Verify that the flame remains lit by looking at the

burner through the burner box window in Figure 8.

7. Adjust the Gas Control Selector (D) to the de-

sired cooling setting. Close viewing window on

Burner Box.

Start-Up Instructions - AC Electric

Operation

1. Verify that 120 volts AC is available to the refrig-

erator and that the AC fuse (C) in the control

bracket is operational.

2. Set the Energy Selector Switch (A) to the AC

position and verify that the Gas Control Selector

(D) is in the OFF position.

3. No other action is required since a non-adjust-

able thermostat is provided to prevent food from

freezing in the electric modes.

Start-Up Instructions - DC Electric

Operation (3-Way)

1. Verify that 12 volts DC is available to the refrig-

erator and that the in-line DC fuse in the DC

heater wire assembly is operational.

2. Set the Energy Selector Switch (A) to the DC

position and verify that the Gas Control Selector

(D) is in the OFF position.

3. No other action is required since a non-adjust-

able thermostat is provided to prevent food

freezing in the electric modes.

Shut-Down Instructions - All Models

1. Set the Gas Control (D) to OFF position.

2. Set the Energy Selector Switch (A) to GAS

position.

NOTE: The Gas Control and Energy Selector must

be switched to the above positions to com-

pletely shut down the refrigerator.

*323 models & 322

model with DC add-on

WARNING

Manual Shut-Off Valve

(shown in open position) Figure 1

Preventative Maintenance

Check-Out of Flame Failure Safety Device

1. To verify proper operation of the flame failure

safety device, first start the system in the gas

mode and verify the presence of a steady flame.

2. Turn off the gas at the manual gas input shutoff

valve.

3. The flame will go out and within three minutes,

the flame failure safety device should automat-

ically close (A sharp click should be heard as

this device closes.).

4. Turn the gas back on at the manual gas input

shutoff valve.

5. Attempt to relight the burner by pressing the

spark ignitor push-button rapidly in succession

but without pressing the Gas Control Selector in.

6. If the burner cannot be re-ignited without holding

the Gas Control Selector in, the flame failure

safety device has operated correctly.

The service facility should review with the refrigerator owner the preventative maintenance steps which can be

performed by the user. The check list is printed in the Installation and Operating Instructions and repeated here.

Maintenance Check List

A safety and performance check should be made annually. The schedule should include at least the

following:

a. Leak test the gas lines.

b. Check combustion seal; repair or replace, if necessary (Visual check without removing the refrigerator.).

c. Inspect or clean the burner or burner orifice.

d. Check/adjust the electrode spark gap.

e. Insure the Thermocouple tip is clean and secure in the burner bracket.

f. Check/adjust AC and DC voltages and gas supply pressure.

g. Check the Flame Failure Safety Device (See procedure below).

h. Insure that the area around the burner and controls is free of debris, oily rags, etc..

i. Inspect the controls, piping and wiring to insure that they are in good condition.

THESE MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES MUST BE PERFORMED BY A QUALIFIED SERVICE PER-

SON. NORCOLD CANNOT ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR REPAIRS, ADJUSTMENT, OR MAINTE-

NANCE PERFORMED BY OTHER THAN A QUALIFIED DEALER OR SERVICE CENTER.

Owner’s Check List

1. Keep the food compartment clean (See section on Cleaning the Refrigerator in the Installation and Operating

Instructions).

2. Check for frost build-up (See section on Defrosting in the Installation and Operating Instructions).

3. Check for proper draining of the fins in the fresh food compartment.

4. Insure that the food compartment door is sealing properly (See section on Door Sealing in the Installation and

Operating Instructions).

5. Be alert to noticeable changes in cooling performance, either overcooling or poor cooling. If this happens with-

out changes in other factors such as weather or resetting of thermostat, contact your dealer or Service Center.

6. Insure that your LP gas supply is Propane, not other types such as Butane or Butane mixtures.

7. Check the flame appearance during operation in the GAS mode (See section on Gas Flame Appearance in the

Installation and Operating Instructions).

8. Inspect the floor at the rear of refrigerator (Look through intake vent from outside of coach). If water appears fre-

quently, contact your dealer of Service Center.

9. Insure the ventilation space behind the refrigerator (the area from the bottom intake vent, up the back of the re-

frigerator and to the top exhaust vent) is clear of obstructions (insulation, supports, bird or squirrel nests, etc.).

10. Insure that the area directly behind the refrigerator is not being used for storage, particularly for storage of com-

bustible material.

Troubleshooting

Failure of Refrigeration

Failure of refrigeration does not necessarily indi-

cate that the cooling system is defective. Other fac-

tors governing its operation must be checked.

If the refrigerator has been operating on gas and a

loss of cooling is noted, convert the refrigerator to

electric operation, AC power (See "Start-Up Instruc-

tions - AC Electric Operation"). If the refrigerator has

been operating on electric, switch it to gas operation.

This will determine if a component failure in the elec-

tric or gas controls is causing the cooling fault.

After the refrigerator has been converted from one

power source to the other (gas to electric, or electric

to gas) allow several hours to assure the unit is cy-

cling properly. At the end of the period the fins

should start to cool providing the following items

have been checked out thoroughly.

1. The refrigerator is level in each direction.

2. The controls have been properly set for the

power source utilized.

3. The power source is at the correct 10.5 - 11

inches water column for gas at the refrigerator’s

pressure tap (Figure 2) and 108-132 volts AC for

electric or 11.5 to 15.4 volts DC.

4. The upper and lower vents are not obstructed

restricting ventilation.

If no cooling is evident after a reasonable time pe-

riod, the cause of failure may be due to a blocked

system. This blockage is caused when the refrigera-

tor is operated for extended periods in an off-level

condition beyond the range of 3 degrees left to right

and 6 degrees front to back. This does not mean the

system is non-functional, but requires the refrigera-

tor to be removed from the vehicle and placed on its

right side when facing the front for a minimum of one

hour. This will allow the ammonia and water to mix

with one another which is necessary in the absorp-

tion system operation.

Once the system has been relieved of its blockage,

operation on AC should once again be initiated for a

reasonable time period to determine if the cooling

process has been restored. If after this period the

fins have no indication of cooling on either gas or

electric the refrigerator will have to be replaced.

Refrigerator Not Cooling on AC

USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN WORKING ON

THE AC ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS OF THE

REFRIGERATOR. BEFORE REPLACING ANY

ELECTRICAL COMPONENT, DISCONNECT THE

AC POWER SOURCE TO THE REFRIGERATOR.

ELECTRICAL CURRENT CAN CAUSE SEVERE

ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR DEATH.

If the refrigerator is not cooling with the Selector

switch in the AC mode - yet cools in the gas mode -

the AC heater is probably not energized. Check the

following:

1. Check for 110 volts to the heater at AC Termi-

nals 1 and 2 (See Figure 3 for location).

Connect Manometer

to Pressure Tap Tee

Figure 2

Figure 3 - Identification Terminal Block Connections

WARNING

If there is no reading, the possibilities are a) AC

supply not connected, b) 3 Amp fuse blown, c)

wiring connections, or d) defective switch or

thermostat. Proceed to Step 2.

If voltage is measured (108-132 volts), then the

heater or the wiring to the heater is defective or

the heater is not positioned properly in the heater

well. Proceed to the Continuity test in Step 4.

2. If no heater voltage is measured, disconnect the

AC supply cord and measure the voltage at the

AC receptacle. If no reading, determine why the

power is not connected. If voltage is present,

check fuse in next step.

3. Without reconnecting the AC supply cord, check

condition of the 3 Amp fuse (should be 0 Ohms

using an Ohmmeter set at lowest scale); replace

if necessary and repeat Step 1 to insure there is

no secondary problem. If fuse blows a second

time, go to Step 4 since it indicates either a

shorted heater or a grounding fault.

NEVER OVER FUSE A CIRCUIT. REPLACE

BLOWN FUSE WITH EXACT REPLACEMENT IN-

DICATED BY NORCOLD. OVER FUSING OF A

CIRCUIT CAN RESULT IN A FIRE.

If the fuse is good (and still no voltage to the

heater), the problem is an open circuit either in

the Control Assembly or the interconnecting wir-

ing. Using the wiring diagram and Figure 4 as

reference, check the wiring for loose connec-

tions or incorrect connections. If a check of wir-

ing proves OK, either the Thermostat or the Se-

lector Switch has an open circuit. Isolate the

open circuit as follows:

a. With the AC cord disconnected, unfasten the

Control Assembly and lay back to view the

control wiring - See the first four steps of the

selector switch removal procedure on page

12-20. Without removing any wires, place a

jumper across terminals W1 & W2 as illustrated

in Figure 5. Make sure the jumper is making

contact with the copper wire of metal terminal.

Note: Access to the terminals can be gained

by probing through the end of the Quick

Connectors as shown in the illustrations.

If the AC heater is now energized when

power is applied, replace the Thermostat. If

not, remove jumper and go to (b).

b. With the AC cord disconnected, lay back

the Control panel as described in Step (a) and

place one jumper from AC2 to W2 and an-

other jumper from AC1 to W1 according to

Figure 6. If AC is now energized when power

is applied, replace the Selector Switch per re-

placement procedure on page 12-20.

WARNING

GAS-AC-DC

Selector Switch

Figure 4 - Wiring Connections to Selector Switch

GAS-AC-DC

Selector Switch

Figure 5 - Thermostat Jumper Connection

GAS-AC-DC

Selector Switch

Figure 6 - Selector Switch - Jumpers on AC Section

4. Ground Fault Test: With the Selector switch

still in the AC position and the AC Supply cord

disconnected, use an Ohmmeter (set on highest

scale) to measure resistance between the HOT

and GROUND prongs, as illustrated in Figure 7.

Read the Ohmmeter and refer to TABLE 2.

Continuity Test: With the Selector switch still in

the AC position and the AC cord disconnected,

use an Ohmmeter to measure resistance be-

tween the HOT and NEUTRAL prongs of the AC

cord connector, as in Figure 7. Read the Ohm-

meter and refer to TABLE 2.

5. If the Ground Fault or the Continuity Test meas-

ures a short (0 Ohms), this causes the 3 Amp

fuse to blow. Repeat the test where 0 Ohms was

measured but this time with the AC heater dis-

connected (Reason: to determine whether the

short is in the heater or the controls).

a. If the Ohmmeter still shows a short (0 Ohms),

the control panel has a short. Remove the

Control Assembly and lay back according to

the first four steps of the selector switch re-

moval procedure on page 12-20. Carefully in-

spect all connections for erroneous grounding

of electrical terminals. If nothing found, re-

place the Control Assembly. See page 12-18

for replacement procedure.

b. If the Ohmmeter now shows an open circuit,

the short is in the heater and must be re-

placed.

Figure 7 - Continuity Ground Fault Test - AC

TABLE 2 Ground Fault/Continuity Check

Test Points on AC Cord

Prongs (See Figure 7) Ohmmeter Reading Indication Action

Hot Terminal & Prong 0 Ohms

(dead short) Indicates a

grounding fault Go to Step 5

Hot Terminal & Prong Open Circuit Normal condition Possibility of ground

fault is eliminated

Hot & Neutral Terminals 76 - 85 Ohms* Heater is good Go to Step 7

Hot & Neutral Terminals above 85 Ohms or

below 76 Ohms Heater is out

of tolerance Replace heater

Hot & Neutral Terminals 0 Ohms

(dead short) Indicates a short

in the AC circuit Go to Step 5

Hot & Neutral Terminals Open Circuit

(no reading) Indicates an open

in the AC circuit Go to Step 6

* If the heater is hot when the measurement is taken, the correct resistance range is 82-91 Ohms.

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