Rans Crank Forward Bedienungsanleitung

OWNERS MANUAL for Crank Forward & Recumbent Bikes

YOUR RESPONSIBILITIES

A lot of these items are common sense, and it may seem silly to include them in this booklet. In spite of this, when accidents occur, usually one or

more of these items were ignored. A little review of the basics can’t hurt.

You must have the skill to operate the bicycle safely before riding in trafﬁc. Every bike has different handling characteristics. Take the time to learn

the behavior of your bike. If you are riding a tandem or short-wheelbase bike, remember there is wheel- overlap which means that your front wheel

can strike your foot if you turn sharply. Practice in unobstructed open areas before riding on public roads.

Always wear a bike helmet and use a rear-view mirror.

Check the operation of brakes and steering before each ride, along with tire pressures. Make sure all the clamps on the handlebar and risers are

snug. Inspect tires for cuts, bulges or excessive wear.

Maintain your bike. Don’t unnecessarily expose it to the elements. Watch for corrosion. Promptly touch up any areas of paint damage.

Do not overload the bicycle. RANS bikes are designed for loads up to 250 or 275 Ibs. (Check our web site for weight limit speciﬁc to model.) Car-

go may affect the handling of your bike. Be especially careful of any cargo or apparel that could interfere with the braking or steering mechanisms

or contact the wheels of the bike when in motion.

Aftermarket items such as fairings, tailboxes, body socks, pedals incorporating clip-in devices, assisted drive systems, and other items not specif-

ically engineered for your bike may adversely affect handling and safety, and are the sole responsibility of the rider as to their suitability for use on

a RANS bike.

Ride under control. This goes double for tandems. Avoid excessive speed going down hills. Ride slowly on damp surfaces. Remember, you will

need extra stopping distance when wheel rims and tires are wet. Be aware of drain grates, gravel or sand, uneven pavement, wet leaves and

debris. If your bike suddenly begins to handle differently, stop immediately and inspect for problems.

Be sure your reﬂectors are correctly installed and not damaged or missing. Do not allow your reﬂectors to be obscured by gear or cargo. Keep

your reﬂectors clean. Reﬂectors are not sufﬁcient for night visibility. Use powered front and rear lighting for maximum safety.

CRANK FORWARD BICYCLES

PROFESSIONAL ASSEMBLY OF YOUR RANS BIKE IS REQUIRED BEFORE RIDING!

Check security of the wheels, handlebars, brake levers, shifters, grips, and

seat prior to riding. Adjustment of the gearing and brakes may be required.

Seek the help of your dealer, local bike shop, or qualiﬁed bike mechanic

for best results.

Check tire pressure and inﬂate as required. Pressure limits are printed on

the sidewalls of the tires. Always ride on tires inﬂated within the range of

the recommended values.

Three main adjustments come into play in order to ﬁne tune the bike to a speciﬁc rider. The one size ﬁts all design is

accomplished by the laid back angle of the seat tube. As the seat raises or lowers the distance to the handlebar and

pedals change. Most riders will ﬁt with simple adjusting of seat height and tilt. Handlebar height, or rotation adjustments

can be made to suit individual taste and some may require a deeper bar for greater reach back. Other bar choices are

available, consult our web site at www.ransbikes.com for detailed information on handlebar options.

Rider weight limit is speciﬁed on your bike, this decal is usually on the seat tube. Use of the bike with loads greater than

speciﬁed voids the warranty. Ramping and jumping the bike also voids the warranty.

FITTING THE BIKE TO THE RIDER

GENERAL

Begin by setting the seat with the front tilted down slightly. This adjustment is

made using the QR on the underside of the seat. Step over the bike, hold the bars

and check for proper leg extension. Proper seat height occurs when the leg is

straight when the heel of your foot (with the intended riding shoes) is on the pedal.

Place the toe on the pedal and there should be slight bend at the knee.

Seat tilt will affect seat height. The more nose down tilt rotates the body slightly

down and forward requiring a slight raise to seat height. Less tilt raises and

pushes back the body; meaning seat height may need to be reduced.

These settings are not critical, riding a bit and experimenting with tilt and

height is recommended. The increase in comfort will be noticed once you have

achieved the right setting. Note: seat tilt is usually at the right angle when it feels

like you are almost sliding out of the seat. A foot on the pedal will secure you

in the seat. This effect will be a little less on the Cruz and Fusion due the more

laid back seat angle. Too little tilt may result in the front edge of the seat applying

pressure against the thighs and chaﬁng, and less circulation can result. Tilt the

seat until no pressure is felt.

We also provided numbers etched on the seat post that correspond with

your pant inseam. This usually places the seat very close to the correct

height. Use this gauge as a starting point ride to ﬁne tune. Also knowing

your “seat setting number” allows you to check for slippage and if

removing the seat, restore it to your setting. The inseam scale will vary depend-

ing on size. Refer to the diagram for adjustment in scale readings.

Adjusting seat tilt is as easy as ﬂipping the

Quick Release to position and lock.

Use the “inseam” scale to position seat at

correct height. Your pant inseam corresponds

to this number etched on seat post.

1. Elbows are slightly bent.

2. Wrist are not held at an odd angle producing pressure.

3. The bars are just above the knees or higher.

4. Check the security of clamps after adjusting handlebar.

Adjust seat height so leg is straight when

heel of the foot is on crank at most extended

point.

Note, be sure hips are level.

Do not attempt riding with loose handlebars! Injury may result.

Handlebar height should be set to just above the knees. This general setting can

be modiﬁed after test rides. Rotating the handlebar will also change wrist and palm

comfort and the feel and reach. The best bar position occurs when:

Adjusting seat tilt is as easy as ﬂipping the Quick Release to position and lock.

Use the “inseam” scale to position seat at correct height. Your pant inseam

corresponds to this number etched on seat post.

HOW TO READ INSEAM GAUGE

SEQUOIA - SUBTRACT 3”

STANDARD - SET ON YOUR INSEAM

SMALL - ADD 2”

SEQUOIA

STANDARD

SMALL

3”

2”

AFTER RIDING AWHILE...

Too much Palm Pressure: This is caused by several factors, rough roads, overreaching to the bars, or bars too

low. To correct for the rough road, try taking bumps at lower speeds or wearing padded gloves. Correct overreaching

ﬁrst. Check seat location, too high will cause you to lean down to the bars more. As the bars are raised they come aft

a slight amount helping with the reach. Deeper bars or bars that extend further aft are available from your dealer and

our online store.

Back Muscle Fatigue: This is a sign of overreaching or pulling too much on the bars (before being in shape). Try

rotating the bars to locate them more aft, or try a deeper set of bars. A little more tilt will shorten the distance to the

bars. If everything is adjusted correctly keep riding. As your muscles strengthen the fatigue will go away.

Some ﬁne-tuning tips to enhance performance and enjoyment…

Numb Seat: Time in the saddle is what will cause the circulation to restrict, and numbness to set in. Standing up on

the pedals for a few seconds will help. If this becomes a chronic problem, try putting a layer of open cell foam stuffed

between the stock cushion and seat. Adjustment of seat height and tilt may be required. You can buy open cell foam

for cushions at most craft stores.

Stand Up Riding: The Fusion and Cruz are not intended for riding while standing on the pedals. Coasting yes. but

since the bars will be too close to your knees when off the saddle, this will conﬂict with pedaling. The Dynamik, Zenetik,

and Alterra’s however can be ridden while off the seat. Some may require handlebar adjustment or changing the bar,

depending on your build. While stand pedaling is possible on these two bikes, it is still different from a standard D/F

and will require some adapting. Learning to ride this way is a great asset on the more aggressive trails, where the

Dynamik and Alterra seems to be eager to go.

Handling Characteristics: Long wheelbase has advantages on loose surfaces- it is easy to maintain control. You

will ﬁnd it easy to maintain control on loose sand and other surfaces not so ideal for skinny high-pressure tires. You

will also ﬁnd going a little slower on such roads is a good idea, especially if you are riding skinny high pressure tires.

The fatter tires will be at home on such roads, and it opens up a great experience to be able to cruise the back-roads

on a bike that is comfortable.

The laid back seat angle places less weight on the front wheel, there can be some tendency for front wheel sliding when

tight cornering too fast on a loose surface. Shifting body weight and controlling speed will enhance your ability to corner.

Again tire size, tread type, and pressure will affect this greatly. Otherwise the bikes handle very naturally, there is no

learning curve, simply get on and ride (provided you are currently able to ride a bike!) However learning and understanding the

special nature of this design will enhance your utilization and enjoyment. The more you ride the more you will enjoy.

The CF-1 & CF-2 Seat: The CF-1 and CF-2 seats are wonderful for comfort, and have the added advantage of

springboard affect, especially when more to the front of the seat. This is a great idea if the road is extra bumpy, just

slide an inch or two forward and you will notice the shock absorbing nature.

Special Consideration for Trail Riding the Dynamik: The lighter front loading will come into play during aggres-

sive trail rides, but with a little practice it will become second nature to compensate, and in some cases an advantage,

such as popping the front wheel over small obstacles. Crank clearance can be less than typical MTB’s so watch out for

crank strikes! Bunny hops are no problem once you learn to push down a bit, or stiffen your arms, since the nose of

the bike will pop up easily. As you ride you will notice the same body English works here as on typical bikes, but slightly

different portions. It only takes a few rides though to start nailing the trail. You will get used the low seat height, the few

inches difference really feels big! The bike seems to hug the ground compared to a MTB. Deﬁnitely nice when ducking

under tree limbs! The low top tube height is nice also; it helps avoid painful groin jams when an errant dismount occurs.

Plus the low top tube height is great when you have encountered a hill that wins, you can simply stay on the bike and

walk it up.

Using Shock Forks: Most MTB shock forks will adapt. The rake needs

to be at least 38mm. Stroke can be your personal preference but 56 to

76mm is plenty. Much over 76mm will, however start lifting the head angle

and change the bikes handling.

Front Tire Clearance: If trying out larger tires than spec, foot to tire

clearance may become close or contact possible. Check this prior to riding.

Caution: Changing tire sizes can affect toe

clearance with the front wheel.

Since you will tend to pull harder on the bars on this bike than perhaps the norm, inspect the stem and bar clamps for security.

CARE...

General: The conventional aspects of the Crank Forward line can be maintained, as any bike should. The bike differs

in the seat, seat post, and seat attach brackets. About the only care needed for these special parts is to spray a dry

wax lube onto the seat post shaft and inside the seat tube on the frame. This will prevent corrosion from binding the

seat post. Keep the seat components clean to avoid extra wear at adjust points, and wash the seat cover/cushion in

the kitchen sink using dish soap. The seat cover may even survive most gentle cycles in the clothes washer, but no

guarantees if you try this.

Headset Adjustment: The headset is adjusted to be play free by using the headset adjustor. It is a bit of a

trick to get all the play out, but simple:

PARTS LAYOUT TOP TO BOTTOM

1. Riser clamp

2. Headset adjuster nut

3. Headset adjuster barrel

4. Headset adjuster clamp

Note: Riser clamp and Headset adjuster clamp are identical in function, but are

given dierent names for the purpose of clarity in these instructions.

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