Solarbotics PumLantern Bedienungsanleitung

PumLantern

PumLanternPumLantern

Ltd.

The

Skill Level:

Beginner

(Soldering Reqd.)

Document Revision: May 21, 2009

2 hrs

Charge all day & pulse all night with

a solar-powered night-light!

The PumLantern’s SCC3733 solar cell stores

power all day to release it in pleasant

“pumms” of multicoloured light all night long!

This page is intentionally left semi-blank.

Yeah, it was going to be completely blank, but we needed to put that

boring legal-type stuff somewhere. We were going to say “use this

marvelous empty page as you blank canvas with which to create such

illustrations or notes as to change the very fabric of society.” Instead

it’s now a partially text-populated page with a large and awkward

empty portion in the middle. Feel free to use it however you want.

www.solarbotics.com 1-866-276-2687

Page 2

Boring Legal-Type Stuff:

“SOLARBOTICS” is a trademark of Solarbotics Ltd. Reg. CIPO / USPTO.

Disclaimer of Liability

Solarbotics Ltd. is not responsible for any special, incidental, or consequential

damages resulting from any breach of warranty, or under any legal theory, including

lost profits, downtime, good-will, damage to or replacement of equipment or

property, and any costs or recovering of any material or goods associated with the

assembly or use of this product. Solarbotics Ltd. reserves the right to make

substitutions and changes to this product without prior notice.

Lantern Sides x4

Lantern Top x1

CP1000 F x2µ

74HCT240 x1

SCC3733 x1

DC-20 Pin

Chip Carrier x1

CP0.47 x5µ

D2 x1

SBLED x4

SWire x5”

R100k x1

R1.5M x1

R2.2M x1

R4.7M x1

R6.8M x1

BHoldAAA x1

BattAAA x2

DSST x1

PARTS

SKU Name . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Qty

74HCT240 Octal Inverting Buffer. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

BattAAA Rechargeable AAA Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

BHoldAAA 2 x AAA Battery Holder. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

CP0.47µF 0.47µF Monolithic Capacitor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

CP1000µF 1000µF Electrolytic Capacitor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

D2 Schottkey Barrier Diode . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

DC-20 Pin 20 Pin DIP Socket Carrier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

DSST Double-Sided Sticky Tape (1” Square) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

KPL-PCB PumLantern PCB. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Lantern Sides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Lantern Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

R100k 100k ohm resistor (Brown, Black, Yellow). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

R1.5M 1.5M ohm resistor (Brown, Green, Green) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

R2.2M 2.2M ohm resistor (Red, Red, Green) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

R4.7M 4.7M ohm resistor (Yellow, Purple, Green) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

R6.8M 6.8M ohm resistor (Blue, Grey, Green). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

SCC3733 37 x 33mm Polycrystalline Solar Cell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

SBLED Super Bright LED . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

SWire 5” of Twisted Wire. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Vellum (8”x2.875” rectangle) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

PARTS LIST

Circuit Board

Vellum x1

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Page 3

Let’s get started. Start by opening your bag of parts, and dumping them into a safe

place like an egg-container (remove eggs), pie-plate (eat the pie), or cat-food bowl

(give cat away to gypsies). Don’t simply spread them about on a table-surface where

they’ll roll away, because then you’ll think we forgot something in the kit and have

to call us. Then we’ll tell you to look under your chair, and you’ll find it there and

think we have magic powers. In short, keep your parts safe when you dump them

out - they’re small, and will try their hardest to hide from you!

SOLDERING TUTORIAL

Solder

Soldering Iron

PCB Solder Pad

PCB

Component Leg

Bad

No flow from leg to pad

Good

Flows from leg to pad

Bad

Solder “bridge” across pads

Bad & Good Solder Joints

Remember to take your time. Don’t rush.

It’s almost impossible to “burn up” these parts!

The most important skill needed to successfully construct your device is

soldering. Make sure you start by using electronics solder, not plumber’s

solder. The main trick to getting a successful solder connection is to heat

the junction up before applying the solder to the heated area. Do NOT try

to melt some solder onto the tip of the iron and smear it onto the joint -

you won’t get a strong joint.

If the heat is applied unevenly, you will get solder blobs (see below). To

better apply heat,keep your soldering iron tip clean by wiping it frequently

on a damp sponge or cloth. The tip should always be shiny, and not

covered in tarnish and burned crud (don’t burn crud - bad!).

You’re a roboticist, not a painter!

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Page 4

Let’s start with mounting the chip

carrier to the printed circuit

board (PCB).It makes it easier to

install the actual chip later.

Note the notch on the carrier,

and make it match the notch on

the PCB.

Installation hint: Put the carrier

in, then fold over a leg or two to

keep it locked in. It keeps it from

falling out!

STEP 1: CHIP CARRIER

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Page 5

BUILDING IT!

Step 1:Install

Chip Carrier

Notch

The way the PumLantern “Pums” is determined by resistors R1 and R2 - the

bigger the resistor, the longer the time interval between Pums. Some

people like frequent blips; others more sleepy longer intervals. Or mix ’em

up for a more random light show.

Choose what Pum interval you’d like:

0.3 seconds - use 1.5M (Brown, Green, Green)

0.6 seconds - use 2.2M (Red, Red, Green)

1 seconds - use 4.7M (Yellow, Purple, Green)

1.5 seconds - use 6.8M (Blue, Grey, Green)

R1 controls the Pum behavior of LED1 & LED2; R2 controls LED3 & LED4.

Not that it really matters, but some people like to have fanatical control

over how their devices work.

May we suggest you start with the 2.2M and 6.8M?

STEP 2: THE FINE ART OF RESISTOR SELECTION

Did you pay close attention to those soldering instructions? Well, now it’s

time to put your new skill to use...

1.5M (Brown, Green, Green)

2.2M (Red, Red, Green)

4.7M (Yellow, Purple, Green)

6.8M (Blue, Grey, Green)

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Page 6

Start by installing your selected R1 and R2 resistors. Put the 100k resistor

(Brown / Black / Yellow) for position R3. R3 sets the dark “turn-on”

sensitivity. Lower values make it turn on earlier in the evening. Be careful

installing the D1 diode! Note the position of the band, and make it match

the position printed on the PCB!

Step 3a: R3

100k Resistor

(Brn/Blk/Yel)

Step 3b: R1

2.2M Resistor (Red/Red/Grn)

(or your choice)

Step 3d: R2

4.7M Resistor (Yel/Purp/Grn)

(or your choice)

Four capacitors work with the R1 and R2 resistors to make the timing

circuit that drives the PumLantern. The fifth capacitor works with the 100k

R3 resistor’s “dark turn-on” circuit.

These capacitors don’t care which way they are installed. Just snug them

down to the PCB, solder them in, and clip off the extra leads.

STEP 4: 0.47µF CAPACITORS

Step 4: Install 0.47µF

capacitors in locations

C3, C4, C5, C6, and C7.

(Yes, we know we skipped

C1 and C2, but we’ll get

back to them - honest)

STEP 3: RESISTOR & DIODE INSTALLATION

Tip:

After you put the part in, bend the

leads so it stays in while you solder!

Step 3c: D1 Diode

Note where

the band is!

STEP 5: LEDS101 - OR “HOW SILICON LIGHTS UP MY LIFE”

Light Emitting Diodes (”LEDs”) make the light. The ones in your kit are

sooper-dooper bright, designed for maximum PUM. Some have a flat top,

which makes them spread their light even wider than the regular type.

Important things to learn about LEDs: They have a cathode (-) and an

anode (+), which means you have to learn which is which. There are 3

easy ways:

1) The anode is the longer leg. Remember this by thinking of

the + sign as two legs ( “|” and a ” –” ). Add these lengths up,

and it’s longer than the cathode (just “ –” ).

2) If you look carefully at the LED itself, you will see it has a

flat shoulder, which marks the cathode ( – ).

3) Look carefully into the LED. The cup side is always the

cathode ( – ).

Method 1:

Longer lead =

Anode ( + )

Method 2:

Flat spot =

Cathode ( – )

Method 3:

LED Cup =

Cathode ( – )

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Page 7

Your PumLantern lights the LEDs up in pairs LED1 & LED3, and LED2 &

LED4, so if you want to colour-arrange your LEDs, here is an easy way to

check them.

Step 1: Arrange LED so

anode (+) matches solar

cell’s oval pad, and

cathode (–) matches

rectangular pad Step 2: Pinch down

the leads to the pads

hard with your thumb

and finger.

Step 3: Hold up to lamp.

Look at the pretty colour!

Step 6: Bend 1000µF capacitor leads

over right next to capacitor body. One

to the right, the other to the left.

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Page 8

Step 5: Install the LEDs in locations

LED1 - 4, matching flat spot on the LEDs

to flat drawn on PCB.

Installation check: ALL the LED cups will look the same. Either

they will be all right, or all wrong (we have confidence in you!)

STEP 5: LEDSCONTINUED...

With all this knowledge, now you won’t have any problem installing the

LEDs so the cathode side matches the flat-spot marked on the PCB in spots

LED1-4, right?

Install, solder, snip!

STEP 6: PREPARING THE LARGE 1000µF CAPACITORS

The 1000µF capacitors actually store the extra “Pum” power in the circuit.

Fold them like this. Just like this. One cap’s leads to the right, the other

cap’s leads to the left.

See the stripe on the side? That’s the cathode, which should be easy for

you to identify because you’re expert at identify-the-cathode-by-the-lead-

length now.

STEP 7: INSTALLING THE 1000µF CAPACITORS

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Page 9

Step 7: Install caps

so long lead goes

through “+” pad

STEP 8: INSTALL THE 74HCT240 CHIP

Remember the first step where we put in the chip carrier? Let’s put it to

work. We’re almost ready to power-test your Pummer!

Find the chip, and put it in the carrier, so the notch matches the notch on

the carrier. You might find it easier to put it in the carrier after bending in

the legs a bit by laying the legs on a surface and gently bending it over.

Step 8: Install 74HCT240 into the

carrier. Note the notch position

on the chip and carrier, and

make them match!

We had you fold over the capacitor leads before

soldering them in so you are sure not to leave

them standing straight up. If you do, they cast

strange shadows on the inside of your

PumLantern.

Make sure you install the

capacitors correctly. The longer

lead (anode +) is marked on the

board with a “+”, and is also the

round pad. The cathode (–) is

the square pad.

STEP 9: PUMMER TEST!

Time to see how good your soldering is!

Hopefully your batteries will have some charge. If not, charge’em up, or

use a pair of AAA cells (borrowed from a remote control), and stick them

into the AAA cell holder.

Insert the battery holder from the underside (opposite side to where you’ve

done all your work so far), and give it a bit of a bend so the leads make a

secure contact with the PCB. If all is well, you should see your 4 LEDs

jumping to life in a pleasant, pummer-ish manner...

Step 9a: Put fresh batteries in the holder,

and insert it from the bottom. These holes

are labeled “Batt” on the top of the PCB.

Step 9b: Tilt the board to the battery

holder pins so that they are for sure

making contact.

Step 9c: Inspect your handiwork!

You should see 4 blinky lights!

If you don’t see blinky lights, check:

!Batteries charged?

!Chip in right-way around?

!LEDs in right-way around?

There’s not much else that can go

wrong, so if nothing else, re-touch up

your soldering!

www.solarbotics.com 1-866-276-2687

Page 10

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