Sovereign Mk4 Bedienungsanleitung

Photo is Sovereign version with sub-chassis for 12 inch tonearm

Standard Sovereign has shorter sub-chassis

Sovereign Mk4

Owner Manual

It cannot be overstated

that it is VERY important

to read these instructions

or the speed control may

not function accurately.

PLINTH

ARMBOARD

PLATTER

SUB-CHASSIS

MOTOR POD

IMPORTANT NOTES

Never remove the silver strip on underside

of platter.

Motor Pod blue light under platter must

come on when platter is driven. If not

reposition motor pod or raise deck till it

does.

For Multi Layer platters - slacken screws

as per instructions.

Never stretch the belt e cept to place it over

the pulley. If you test stretch the belt you can

damage it resulting in future breakage

Introduction

Congratulations and thank you for choosing an Origin

Live turntable. This should give many years of

enjoyment, reliability and low maintenance.

It's critical that these instructions are read fully to

achieve best performance. Underlined te t is especially

important.

The instructions are written for owners with no previous

e perience, however there are aspects of the deck that

run contrary to e pectations, so e perts should not alter

anything without absorbing these instructions first.

Origin Live turntables are simple to set up. The

instructions appear lengthy because they give proper

e planation of factors that are different to conventional

set ups. If you have a problem not covered in the

instructions - you should speak to your dealer or refer to

technical support on the Origin Live web site

www.originlive.com - See top navigation bar “ support”.

There is a wealth of 3rd party information online.

YouTube videos are particularly helpful on how to set up

cartridges and tonearms should you need more help –

Just Google what you need to know.

Keep the turntable packing bo for secure future

transport.

Safety Warnings

Voltages inside the motor pod are dangerous so the pod

must not be opened.

Ensure that the Mains lead to the motor pod cannot be

pierced by spikes or similar abuse. Also

ensure the lead cannot cause anyone to

trip.

Furthermore ensure the mains lead is

away from areas where liquids could

spill on it.

Parts list

Plinth & Sub-chassis - including 1 cable clip with nut

& bolt.

Bag of parts

Cork washer for arm

Oil bottle

2.5mm Allen key for arm clip

3mm Allen key

4mm Allen key & 8mm A/F spanner

2 plastic + 1 steel foot

Platter

Upgrade platter mat

1 Belt + Spindle for platter + Strobe card

Motor pod

Owner manual, assembly sheet, Packing instructions

Set up & operation

Assemble Sub-chassis to Plinth

Fit the sub-chassis to the deck as per separate instruction

sheet.

Fit spindle

Oil the bearing

Run appro imately 17 drops of the oil supplied into the

top of the bearing house. The spindle will appear a loose

fit in the bearing house until the oil is added. Do not use

anything other than Origin Live oil for performance

reasons.

Insert the spindle

Inserting the spindle into the bearing house needs

attention as careless handling can damage the bearing

surfaces. Wipe the spindle surface first to ensure that it's

absolutely clean and very gently insert it into the bearing

house. If the oil does not overflow when the spindle

touches the bottom then try 2 more drops repeatedly till

you achieve overflow. Overflow can only be seen by

looking at the top of the bearing house with the spindle

inserted. You should notice an oil ridge around the

spindle – see diagram below.

Wipe away e cessive overflow at the top of the bearing

house but be careful to leave oil clinging to the spindle

as you need the top of the bearing to be lubricated by oil

overflow and things like tissue paper can suck this area

dry by capillary action. You should spin the spindle

slowly after it has settled into the bearing to ensure even

distribution of oil.

Note that when you oil the bearing, you can get a false

impression of overflow if the spindle has oil on it - the

oil simply scrapes off as the bearing slides in and ends

up on the top of the bearing house. You can “feel”

overflow when you insert the spindle and it meets

resistance at the bottom. This is not a “thud” of the

spindle hitting the bottom but rather a build up of

pressure as the bearing lands on a bed of oil. By further

pressing, you can then see the oil being squeezed out at

the top.

Notes on the bearing:

The bearing has significant play “rock” which runs

counter to e pectations. However, this feature achieves

very low friction levels. The spindle effectively rotates

on a thick film of oil without contacting the bearing

sides.

This means that there is an almost imperceptible platter

movement in rotation. Small low frequency deviations of

this nature are insignificant to performance.

All platters are rigorously checked for level spinning up

to 45rpm - if you notice significant platter flutter once

the belt is fitted, then remove the platter and clean taper

surfaces. Refit it till it sits true.

Do not spin the platter faster than 45rpm as the bearing

relies on a high precision oil film designed for optimal

sound quality within a specific speed range. At higher

than normal running speeds there will be slight platter

flutter.

Fit Multi-Layer Platter

Fit the platter gently over to the spindle but ensure the

tapered mating surfaces are absolutely clean before

assembly by wiping them with tissue paper.

Holding the Multi-layer platter

The top thin layers of the multi-layer platter are fragile

so do not hold the weight of the platter using the top

layers – also avoid placing the platter upside down on

surfaces as the spindle is fastened to a relatively fragile

material.

Slac en screws in the Multilayer Platter by

2/3rds of a turn

The multi-layer platter is held together by white nylon

screw. These are tensioned up for transit to maintain

concentricity of the centre spindle. However this tension

seriously degrades performance, so turn each screw

2/3 rds of a turn anti-clockwise to release tension.

This step is essential to allow the multi-layer platter to

perform as intended and makes a big difference.

Fit Platter Mat

Finally add the platter mat ensuring the printed logo is

uppermost for sound quality reasons.

Finally add the platter mat ensuring the printed logo is

uppermost for sound quality reasons.

Adjust dec feet

Thread the 2 plastic feet into the 2 front pods and the

Stainless Steel foot into the rear pod. No foot should be

tightened fully onto the pod as performance is best when

the foot sits on the thread alone.

GAP for setting

plinth height

Set Plinth Height

Set the plinth height by rotating the 3 adjustable feet. It

helps to lift the deck slightly for access to each foot in

turn.to set the plinth height correctly, position the motor

pod just clear of the platter as shown below. Correct

height description

Set plinth height using the 3 adjustable feet, to give the

platter 5 to 7mm clearance between the top of the motor

pod screws and the underside of the platter as shown

below.

Level the dec using armboard as reference

For accurate levelling place a bubble gauge on the

armboards central metallic disc as shown below. Do not

place it on the black acrylic portion of the armboard as

this will not be accurate. Now adjust the feet till the

armboard is level.

Alternative levelling method

Once your tonearm is fitted, the above method of

levelling is impossible, but you can use an alternative

method.

The design of the Multi-layer platter is unconventional,

and the top surface is slightly uneven, so use the

following procedure to achieve level.

Remove the platter mat.

Take bubble gauge readings from at least 4 different

positions (suggest within quadrants). Level the deck to

achieve the best average readings for the bubble gauge at

all points.

Position motor pod & fit belt

Power up

Plug the motor pod into a mains socket. We suggest

omitting mains conditioners, filters or anything with

surge protection as these can be highly detrimental for

performance. The aforementioned items inflict no

damage so you can e periment with their inclusion if

you wish.

Ensure items such as power amps or power supplies with

strong electromagnetic fields are kept away from the

location of the pod (i.e not directly underneath or

alongside).

Motor Pod position

Move the pod into position as shown below. The pod and

pod cable should not touch the plinth so rotate the pod if

necessary and check the pulley to platter distance is

initially 217mm or slightly more.

Fit the belt over the platter first and then pull it over the

motor pulley taking care not to twist it.

To set belt tension, simply move the pod.

As a rough guide, centre of platter spindle to centre of

motor pulley should be between 217 - 227mm. Note -

Low belt tension can result in slight platter flutter but for

a new belt start at 217mm.

The belt stretches slightly during the first hours of use so

leave final tension adjustment till 48 hours of running

have passed.

Final positioning of motor pod

To set correct belt tension finally, lift the belt off the

pulley and let it lose it’s tension almost completely

whilst still holding it gently - With no tension

whatsoever in the belt it should be appro 7mm off the

nearside of the motor pulley (flange edge) as per

diagram below. Move the pod till the pulley is this

distance from the belt, then stretch the belt to fit over the

pulley.

Chec belt rides correctly

Rotate the platter by hand for a couple of turns and

check that the belt still sits between the 2 flanges of the

pulley. If this is not the case and it has ridden up onto a

flange push the belt back onto the crown (Curved portion

between the flanges) and turn the platter. Check the belt

remains on the crown.

People comment that the plastic pulley looks cheap -

However it's made from a special plastic which sounds

better than metal and is noteably more e pensive to

machine.

Note that belt grip varies according to the way it's fitted.

This means the deck will sound slightly different if you

refit the belt inside out or upside down from previously.

Therefore when removing and refitting the belt take care

to replace it with the same side in contact with the

running surfaces.

Position the Motor Pod correctly

The speed is controlled very accurately by a light sensor

reading the speed of the platter. You will notice 3 closely

spaced holes near the edge of the motor pod. These holes

house the light emitters and sensors that read platter

speed and must be positioned under the rim of the platter

as shown in photo below.

The sensor reads the silver strip on the underside of the

platter (see below). This strip must never be removed or

the speed will not be correct.

There are 2 blue LEDs which can light up (the other 2

never do as they are sensors). The blue LED nearest the

switch knob remains lit permanently when the power is

connected. The second blue light directly below the

platter, only comes on when the platter is rotating and

shows that the speed is correct. We call this the “speed

sensor light”

When the platter is rotating you should always see the

blue speed sensor LED below the platter, light up

( shown in the rectangle outline shown in preceding

illustration.)

Never disturb, poke or press any LEDs as it will wreck

speed reading.

Note that when you plug in the motor pod to a mains

socket, only the LED ne t to the knob lights up at this

stage and will remain on to show item is connected to

the mains.

Set up for Light speed control

Check that there is at least 5mm of clearance between

the top of the pod and the platter or the light sensor may

not work.

Switch on the speed to 33 rpm by turning the knob

clockwise one click. The deck should start and the blue

sensor light appear shining through the platter.

If the sensor light does not appear then switch off and

raise the deck by 1mm. This increases the gap between

the top of the Motor Pod and the Platter. Switch on again

and the blue light should appear. If not, repeat the

aforementioned process. The blue sensor light should

only shine when the platter is rotating correctly. It turns

off when the switch is turned off or the pod is not

MOTOR POD

positioned correctly.

Once the Blue light is functioning correctly, it’s

important to raise the plinth at least another 0.5mm to

ensure that the blue light is not in a “borderline”

condition leading it to turn off at a later date.

The other factor that may prevent the blue sensor light

from lighting up is if the pod is positioned with the 3

LED holes not underneath the rim of the platter. Ensure

this is not the case.

Initially motors may be a little noisy but soon settle

down within a couple of days continuous running. The

sound quality also improves substantially after 40 hours

of running in.

Fine Tuning Motor screws

It should not be necessary but you can fine tune the

motor mount to give minimum noise and belt vibration

by adjusting the tightness of the 3 screws ne t to the

motor pulley for minimal tension - “just nipped” on the

small rubber O ring. Always check that the motor pulley

is appro imately vertical and that the belt runs clear

above the bottom flange as per earlier diagram. If you

notice the belt vibrating significantly then try moving the

pod AND rotating it slightly. This adjusts the tension and

pulley angle enough to reduce vibration. It can

sometimes help to reduce the tension on the motor screw

nearest the platter.

Motor “running in” should be carried out with platter

turning (no faster than 45rpm).

Control nob operation

The motor is “off” when the speed control knob on the

pod is turned fully anti-clockwise and the indent on the

knob aligns to the reference point.

Turn the knob one click clockwise to turn the motor on

at 33.3 rpm - The second click clockwise is 45rpm

Operating the strobe

You can check the speed of your deck by placing the

strobe disc on the record to be played. The strobe rings

are labelled on the centre of the disc for speed and mains

frequency.

Use correct lighting

The strobe effect shows best in fluorescent light,

although an ordinary bulb held about 2 feet from the

strobe disc will also work fine. The bulb flickers at 50

Hz in the EEC and 60 Hz in the USA.

You can purchase bayonet fitting fluorescent or halogen

bulbs to fit normal lamps. Try to shut out daylight when

carrying out speed reading. Also be aware that energy

saving lighting with switch mode high frequency power

supplies or certain energy saving bulbs will not work

with the strobe disc.

Reading the strobe

As you play the record. watch the relevant ring on the

strobe disc. Read the speed as described in ne t sub-

heading until marks on the ring concerned appear

stationary. It sometimes helps to stare the strobe but

focus your eyes on infinity.

Alternative methods

There are other strobes which are easier to read such as

the KAB strobe which can be found on our web site

under vinyl measurement accessories.

There is also a phone app you can download for Android

or IOS. You simply then place the phone on the platter

and it reads the speed (but not very reliably). Best

results are achieved with the phone close to the centre of

the platter and ideally it should be supported over the

centre spindle of the platter.

Notes on Belt & Motor running

Motor Tilt

Check that the belt rides clear of the flanges – nearly

touching is OK but if the belt sinks down to touch the

flange you need to either increase belt tension slightly or

adjust the tilt of the motor by turning the small cross-

head motor mounting screw positioned nearest the

platter.

Motor Noise

Our DC motors are often slightly noisy initially and

never completely silent in comparison to many a/c

motors. This is due to the high grade precious metal

motor brushes. Metal brushes improve conduction due to

higher conduction and more pressure on moving surface

contact. The result is much lower levels of vibration but

higher levels of audible noise in comparison to low

grade carbon brushes. Severe vibration is far more

detrimental to performance than low energy audible

noise.

Brushless motors are often silent but have very high

levels of vibration due to “Hall effect” sensors which

create intermittent drag as the spindle rotates.

Like most turntable manufacturers we recommend you

leave the turntable running between changing records as

this reduces belt wear due to constant stopping and

starting.

Why measurements can be misleading

The figures on speed accuracy of the deck are well ahead

of industry standards however it's worth mentioning that

the Fleikhart measurement system is now well reported

on the web to be inaccurate due to off-centre discs and

poorly recorded tone. It has currently been withdrawn

from production.

Mobile phone apps are similarly only a rough guide as

they are not particularly accurate.

Fit the tonearm

Mounting Origin Live arms

All newer Origin Live arms have built in VTA

adjustment and can be fitted directly to the arm board as

illustrated below.

If you have an older Origin Live or Rega tone-arm which

has a threaded base but no VTA adjustment, you can fit a

threaded VTA adjuster. The adjuster must be threaded

onto the base of the arm first and oriented such that the

flange is uppermost.

Insert your arm through the hole in the arm board.

Ne t fit the cork washer followed by the large clamping

nut as shown in the diagram on this page.

Lastly fit the tone-arm cables through the cable clip on

the underside of the deck. This improves performance

slightly and safeguards the cables from stressing their

joint at the arm base in the event of being “tugged”. The

cables should not be tight but form a gentle loop.

If clamping the cable is undesirable you can omit this

step.

We will cover setting the arm to e actly the correct

height later as you need to do a number of other things

first.

Final setup of tonearm

You should refer to your tone-arm instructions for

detailed set up of the arm and cartridge alignment.

Fit the arm cable clip

Pass the arm cable through the cable clip supplied and

fasten in position with the M5 bolt located in the

threaded hole near the rear foot. Leave a slight droop on

the cable so that it isn’t “tight”. The bolt is helpful to

minimize cable vibration.

Note – Silver Hybrid cable is relatively thick but both

left and right channels will fit trough one of the cable

clips supplied.

Maintaining your deck

Cleaning

To avoid belt vibration or wow & Flutter, it aids

performance to clean all running surfaces every 3

months with mentholated or surgical spirit. Wiping (not

dipping) with Acetone (Nail Varnish remover) is an

alternative, as is iso-propanol.

Belts can also be cleaned with soap & water then rinsed

thoroughly. Rubber care products can leave behind a

slippery residue.

Clean the deck using a damp soft lint free cloth and wipe

gently – if you have grease marks etc then use a general-

purpose anti-smear, car window cleaner such as Auto-

glym “Fast glass”, but only if necessary. Avoid wa

furniture polish. Do not spray directly on the turntable as

it may clog up the cartridge internals. Rather spray onto

a soft polishing cloth and then use it on the turntable. Do

not use tissue paper or kitchen paper towels as they are

abrasive and can faintly scratch the polished surface.

Scratch removal

If minor abrasions occur on the surface, you can remove

them using a proper plastic scratch remover polish such

as “Xerapol” by E.V.I of Germany or “Plastic Clean &

Shine by Novus inc of USA. Avoid Car and other

polishes as they leave light scratching or bloom.

Every 2 Years or so

The deck is not prone to going out of tune:

Check that the sub-chassis curved damper is

tensioned lightly onto the plate every 2 years or so as the

damper can compress a little over time.

Check belt tension is correct using the method

described for final pod positioning. All belts stretch over

the years so the motor pod may need to be moved out

further than the initially specified 227mm ma imum.

Depending on your use of the deck, the belt should

ideally be replaced every 2 to 4 years.

Every 3 years

Only use Origin Live oil which should be replaced every

3 to 4 years so. You will need to clean out the old oil

with a lint free paper towel or similar wrapped around a

thin rod. Be sure to wipe oil off the spindle as this may

contain microscopic contamination that's not visible.

If you ever withdraw the main spindle you should put a

few drops of oil into the bearing house to compensate for

any possible loss occurring in the withdrawal.

Never tamper with the bolt in the bottom of the bearing

or oil leaks will occur and you will probably not succeed

in re-tightening it.

Mounting platform:

From our past e perience of designing award winning

isolation platforms, we do not offer much advice on

specific platforms because the right choice of mounting

platform depends a great deal on your floor. Some

designs favour concrete floors while others favour

suspended wooden floors. Some platforms are good all

rounders but slightly compromised as a result.

Having said this, the most reliable platform is a slab of

40mm thick finger laminated Oak as supplied by “Hi Fi

Racks”. A platform of this nature can either be purchased

directly from Hi-Fi Racks or a kitchen worktop supplier.

This slab can then be mounted on whatever rack you are

currently using. Our isolation pads or rubber feet are

ideal for decoupling the slab from the supporting

surface.

Troubleshooting

Refer to the Origin Live website > Support > Technical

Support > Turntables if you have any problems

If for any reason the strip of silver foil under the platter

is damaged it can be replaced by cutting a strip of alu-

minium kitchen foil to appro 4mm wide and gluing it to

the underside of the platter as shown below. Note the

most reflective surface of the foil must face the top.

Alternative Mats?

Many of the mats on the market have been tried on our

platters and do not work better than our own award win-

ning mat (supplied with this deck) so we recommend

saving yourself the e pense of trying them.

PAC ING INSTRUCTIONS

1st BOX FOR SOVEREIGN PAC ING

40mm layer of foam -

30mm Layer of Foam.

Sub-chassis upside-down

40mm Layer of Foam

30mm Layer of Foam

Add platter with platter mat right way up

Add Motor pod in cardboard sleeve to protect

motor from end force.

Include Strobe Card & Belt rolled in a bag

Spindle, Feet and bag of parts

Manual + Assembly Sheets

30mm Foam base - Add

Plinth then 30mm Foam

piece on Top

Box Number 2 (Shallow Packing Instructions for Plinth

Plinth must be packed separately from Sub-chassis as shown in

assembly instructions

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