UnionSpecial 39500FS Merkblatt

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

FINE

QUALITY

YLES

500FS

500FT

395

00FU

39S

00G

395

00GL

395

00GT

395

00J

395

00MM

CATALOG

No.

103FS

SECOND

EDITION

LEWIS•

COLUMBIA

CLASS

39500

HI-STYLED

INDUSTRIAL

SEWING

MACHINES

HIGH

SPEED

OVERSEAMERS

WITH

INTERMITTENT

DIFFERENTIAL

FEED

CHICAGO

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

Here

are

Oil

Specifications

for

Union

Special

Sewing

Machines

Specification

174

spec

ifies a high q

ualit

y pet-

roleum

oil,

viscosity

100

sec

ond

s at

100°

F. Recom-

mended

for

all

oiling

applications

on high speed

machine

Specification 175 specifies a high

quality

pet

leum

oil, viscosity

100

seconds at

100°F

., water

whit

e or wi

maximum

A.S.T.M. co

lor

number

For

use

where freedom from

oil

staining is para-

mount.

Specification 87 specifies a high

quality

pet

roleum

oil,

viscosi

300

seconds at

100°F.

Specification

100

specifies a general purpose

high

quality

grease

for

use

in ball bearings and trans-

mitter

similar

commerc

N.L.G

.I.

, grease

3. Where

No.

3 grease

not

obtainable,

No.

may

used.

UNION

SPECIAL

SPECIFICATION

NO. 174 175

Viscosity S.S.U.

100°F

90-125

125

300-350

Flash

(Min.)

350

Pour

(Max.)

20 20

Color

A.S.T.M.

(Max.)

3 1 3

Neutralization

No. (Max.) 0.

0.10

Viscosity

Index

& D

Min

.) 85

85 85

Compounding

None

Copper

Corro

(Max

line

. 175-225 175-225 175-

225

*Used

Buna N

Rubber

Retainers

NOTE

1: The

use

non-

corrosive additives

oil

meeting above classification

desirable

but

not

essential. These

may

include

Oxidation

inhib

tors

Rust

inhibitors

Lubr

city

addit

ves

Anti

oxidant

Film

strength

additives

These additives

must

completely

lubl

the

oil

and

not

removable

wick

feeding

nor

shall

they

separate.

NOTE

Oil

s c

onta

ining

following

type

addit

shall

not

used

time

Extreme

pressure additives-corrosi

2. Tackiness

adhesive additives

3. Lead soap

additives

4. Detergents

NUT

OUA

CORPORATION

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

October,

197

Catalog

No.

103

INSTRUCTIONS

FOR

ADJUSTING

AND

OPERATING

LIST

PARTS

Class

39500

Styles

39500

Second

Edition

1967

Union

Special

Corporation

Rights

Reserved

All

Countries

CORPORATION

INDUSTRIAL

SEWING

MACHINES

CHICAGO

Printed

U.S.

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

IDENTIFICATION

MACHINES

Each

Union

Special

machine

identified

Style

number

name

plate

the

machine.

Style

numbers

are

classified

standard

and

special.

Standard

Style

numbers

have

one

letters

suffixed.

but

never

contain

the

letter

"Z".

Ex-

ample:

"Style

39500

FS".

Special

Style

numbers

contain

the

letter

"Z".

When

only

minor

changes

are

made

standard

machine.

suffixed

the

standard

Style

number.

Example:

"Style

39500

FSZ".

Styles

machines

similar

construction

are

grouped

under

Class

number

which

differs

from

the

Style

number

that

contains

letters.

Example:

"Class

39500".

APPLICATION

LOG

This

catalog

applies

specifically

the

standard

Styles

machines

listed

herein.

can

also

applied

with

discretion

some

Special

Styles

machines

Class

39500.

References

directions,

such

right.

left,

front,

back.

etc

••

are

given

from

the

operator's

position

while

seated

the

machine.

Operating

direction

handwheel

away

from

operator.

STYLES

MACHINES

Hi-Style

High

Speed,

One

Two

Curved

Blade

Needles.

Two

Looper.

Three

Four

Thread

Overseaming

Machine.

Intermittent

Differential

Feed.

Trimming

Mechanism

with

Spring

Pressed

Lower

Knife.

Automatic

Lubricating

System.

39500

Single

needle

three

thread.

medium

heavy

duty

machine.

for

seaming

and

intermittently

gathering

shirring

woven

and

knit

materials

such

dresses.

aprons.

lingerie.

smocks.

nightgowns

and

similar

garments.

Knee

press

controlled

tandem

intermittent

differential

feed.

Slotted

presser

foot

separate

top

and

bottom

plies.

Gathering

ratio

depending

stitch

length.

Seam

specification

504-SSa-1.

Standard

width

seam

1/8

inch

(3.17

mm).

Stitch

range

8-20

per

inch.

Cam

adjusted

main

and

differential

feeds.

Maximum

recommended

speed

6000

R.P.M.

39500

Single

needle

three

thread,

medium

heavy

duty

machine.

for

seaming

and

intermittently

gathering

shirring

woven

and

knit

materials

such

dresses.

aprons.

lingerie.

smocks.

nightgowns

and

similar

garments.

Knee

press

controlled

tandem

intermittent

--.?

ifferential

feed.

Independent

swing-out

pressure

plate

att

a c

lmien

for

shirring

Gathering

ratio

depending

stitch

length

';-

Seam

specificat

<5il"

504-SSa-1.

Standard

width

seam

3/16

inch

(4.

mm).

Stitch

range

8-20

per

inch.

Cam

adjusted

main

and

differential

feeds.

Maximum

recommended

speed

6000

R.P.M.

39500

Single

needle

three

thread.

medium

heavy

duty

machine.

for

seaming

and

intermittently

gathering

shirring

woven

and

knit

materials

such

dresses,

aprons.

lingerie.

smocks.

nightgowns

and

similar

garments.

Knee

press

controlled

tandem

intermittent

differential

feed.

Presser

foot

bottom

grooved

for

1/ 8

inch

cord.

Independent

swing-out

pressure

plate

attachment

for

shirring.

Gathering

ratio

depending

stitch

length.

Seam

speci-

cation

504-SSa-1.

Standard

width

3/16

inch

(4.

mm).

Stitch

range

8-20

per

inch.

Cam

adjusted

main

and

differential

feeds.

Maximum

recommend-

speed

5500

R.P.M.

39500

Two

needle

four

thread.

medium

heavy

duty

machine.

for

seaming

and

intermittently

gathering

shirring

woven

and

knit

materials

such

dres

ses.

aprons.

lingerie.

smocks.

nightgowns

and

similar

garments.

Knee

press

controlled

tandem

intermittent

differential

feed.

Independent

swing-out

pres

plate

attachment

for

hirring.

Gath

er ing r

atio

1 de

pending

stitch

length.

Seam

specification

512-SSa-1.

Standard

width

seam

from

left

needle

/ 64

inch

(6.

mm).

Stitch

range

8-20

per

inch.

Cam

adjusted

main

and

differential

feeds.

Maximum

recommended

speed

6000

R.P.M.

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

STYLES

MACHINES

(Continued)

39500

Two

needle

four

thread,

medium

heavy

duty

machine,

for

seaming

and

intermittently

gathering

shirring

woven

and

knit

materials

such

dres

ses.

aprons,

lingerie,

smocks,

nightgowns

and

similar

garments.

Knee

press

controlled

tandem

intermittent

differential

feed.

Independent

swing-out

pres

sure

plate

attachment

for

shirring.

Gathering

ratio

depending

stitch

length.

Seam

specification

512-SSa-1.

Standard

width

seam

from

left

needle

17/ 64

inch

(6.

mm).

Stitch

range

8-2

per

inch.

Cam

adjusted

main

and

differential

feeds.

Maximum

recommended

speed

5500

R.P.M.

39500

Single

needle

three

thread.

medium

heavy

duty

machine,

for

seaming

and

intermittently

gathering

shirring

all

types

cotton,

dacron,

rayon

and

silk

fabrics

where

a 3/ 32

inch

(2. 38

mm)

turned

down

hem

desired.

Knee

press

controlled

tandem

intermittent

differential

feed.

Presser

foot

has

short

curler

stitch

tongue.

Independent

swing-out

pressure

plate

attachment

for

shirring.

Gathering

ratio

depending

stitch

length.

Seam

speci-

fication

504-EFe-1

inverted.

Standard

width

seam

3/32

inch

(2.

mm).

Stitch

range

10-20

per

inch.

Cam

adjusted

main

and

differential

feeds.

Maxi-

mum

recommended

speed

6000

R.P.M.

39500

Single

needle

three

thread.

light

medium

duty

machine,

with

operator

adjusted

intermittent

differential

feed

for

seaming

and

trimming

all

types

and

weights

flat,

warp

and

ribbed

knit

cotton,

wool,

rayon

and

silk

fabrics

where

long

straight

seams

are

necessary.

Thumbscrew

feed

which

allows

either

re-

versed

forward

differential

feeding.

Seam

specification

504-SSa-1.

Standard

width

seams

3/32

and

1/8

inch

(2.38

and

3.17

mm).

Stitch

range

8-30

per

inch.

Cam

adjusted

main

and

differential

feeds.

Maximum

recommended

speed

6000

R.P.M.

39500

Single

needle

three

thread,

medium

heavy

duty

machine,

for

seaming

and

intermittent

gathering

shirring

woven

and

knit

materials

such

dresses,

aprons,

lingerie,

smocks.

nightgowns

and

similar

garments.

Knee

press

controlled

tandem

(in

termitten

differential

feed.

Independent

swing-out

pressure

plate

tac

men

.~..

shi

rin

Gathering

ratio

depending

stitch

length.

eam

specification

4-SSa-1.

Standard

width

seam

3/16

inch

(4.

mm).

Stitch

range

8-20

per

inch.

Cam

adjusted

main

and

differential

feeds.

Maximum

recommended

speed

5500

R.P.M.

OILING

CAUTION!

Oil

was

drained

from

machine

when

shipped.

reservoir

must

fiiled

before

beginning

operate.

Oil

capacity

Class

39500

ounces.

straight

mineral

oil

Saybolt

viscosity

125

seconds

100

Fahrenheit

should

used.

Machine

filled

with

oil

spring

cap

top

cover.

Oillevel

checked

sight

gauge

front

machine.

Red

bulb

oil

level

indicator

should

show

between

gauge

lines

when

machine

stationary.

Machine

automatically

lubricated.

oiling

necessary,

other

than

keeping

main

reservoir

filled.

Check

oil

daily

before

the

morning

start;

add

oil

required.

The

oil

drain

plug

screw

located

back

machine

near

bottom

edge

base.

magnetic

screw

designed

accumulate

possible

foreign

materials

which

may

have

entered

the

crank

case.

should

removed

and

cleaned

periodically.

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

NEEDLES

Each

Union

Special

needle

has

both

type

and

size

number.

The

type

number

de-

notes

the

kind

shank,

point,

length,

groove,

finish

and

other

details.

The

siz

number,

stamped

the

needle

shank,

denotes

largest

diameter

blade,

measured

thousandths

inch,

midway

between

shank

and

eye.

Collectively,

type

and

size

number

represent

the

complete

symbol

which

given

the

label

all

nee-

dles

packaged

and

sold

Union

Special.

Class

39500

machines

use

curved

blade

needle.

The

standard

recommended

needle

for

Styles

39500

FS,

FT.,

FU,

GD,

GL,

and

Type

154

GAS

while

the

standard

needle

for

Style

39500

Type

154

GBS.

Below

are

the

type

numbers,

description

and

sizes

available

the

recommended

needles.

Type

No.

154

GAS

154

GBS

Description

and

Sizes

Round

shank,

round

point.,

curved

blade,

standard

length,

single

groove,

struck

groove,

spotted,

chromium

plated

and

available

sizes

022., 025, 027, 029, 032, 036, 040, 044, 049, 054,

060.

Round

shank,

round

point,

curved

blade,

standard

length,

double

groove,

struck

groove,

spotted,

chromium

plated

and

available

sizes

027, 029,

032.

have

needle

orders

promptly

and

accurately

filled,

empty

package,

sample

needle,

the

type

and

size

number

should

forwarded.

Use

description

label.

complete

order

would

read:

1000

Needles,

Type

154

GAS,

Size

027

•

Selection

the

proper

needle

size

determined

size

thread

used.

Thread

should

pass

freely

through

needle

eye

order

produce

good

stitch

formation.

Success

the

operation

Union

Special

machinee

can

secured

only

use

needles

packaged

under

our

brand

name,

which

backed

re-

putation

for

producing

highest

quality

needles

materials

and

workmanship

for

than

three-quarters

century.

CHANGING

NEEDLES

Release

pressure

presser

foot

turning

presser

foot

release

bushing

(AG,

Fig.

and

lA)

and

swing

presser

arm

(U)

out

position.

Turn

handwheel

opera-

ting

direction

until

needle

its

lowest

point

travel.

Using

hexagonal

socket

wrench

No.

21388

AU.,

furnished

with

machine,

loosen

needle

clamp

nut

about

1/4

turn.

Again

turn

handwheel

until

needle

"is

high

position;

withdraw

needle.

replace

needle,

leave

needle

holder

high

position

and,

with

the

flat

the

left,

insert

needle

holder

until

rests

against

stop

pin.

Keeping

needle

this

position,

turn

handwheel

until

holder

again

its

low

point

travel,

then

tighten

nut.

Return

presser

arm

(U)

position;

re-lock

presser

foot

release

bushing

(AG).

THREAD

STAND

(504

STITCH)

After

thread

comes

from

cones

cone

support

(A.,

Fig.

brought

through

back

hole

thread

eyelet

(B).,

then

down

through

the

front

hole

thread

eyelet.

threaded

through

the

upper

holes

tension

thread

guide

(C)

from

front

back

and

then

throu

the

lower

holes

from

back

front.

should

noted

that

the

lower

looper

thread

threaded

through

the

tension

thread

guide

first

through

the

upper

hole

back

front.,

second

throu

the

middle

hole

front

back

and

third

through

the

lower

hole

back

front.

All

threads

then

continue

between

the

tension

discs

(J).,

through

tension

post

slot

(K)

tension

post

(G)

and

through

front

thread

guide

(M).

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

li]

Tension

Nut

Tension Spring Fe

Tension

Spring~

---~~~

[!]

Tension

Post

IIJ

spring

Shield

..-:::

O Tension

Discs

:~.::

··

Tension

Post

Slot :

IITension

Disc

Felt

·..

nsion

Thr

Guide

FIJ

Front

Thr

Guide

IIJupper

Looper

Thread

Eyelet

Iii

Auxiliary

Looper

Thread

Eyelet

(9Lower

Looper

Thread

Eyelet

DFrame

Looper

Thread

Guide

Presser

Arm

Fig.

l;)

Thread

Eyelet

Top

Cover

..,.,.

Needle

Thread

Eyelet

Upper

Looper

Thread

Tube

Assembly

Lower

Looper

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

m Tension

Nut

[!]

Tension

ll)

spring Shield

O Tension Di

scs

·..

Tension

Post

Slot ·.

nTe

nsion

Dis

c Felt

·.

Tension

Thr

Guid

f,I)

Front

Thr

ead Guide

(II

Upper Looper

Thread

Eyelet

Iii

Auxiliary

Looper

Thread

Eyelet

Lower

Looper

Thr

Eyelet

(il

Fabric

Guard

cket

Frame

Looper

Thread

Guide

Presser

Arm

Fig.

(;)

Thr

elet

---...

Top

Cover

lllli..

Needl

Thread

Eyelet

Upper

Looper

Thread

Tube Aa

sembly

Upper

Looper

Lower

Looper

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

THREAD

STAND

(512

STITCH)

After

thread

comes

from

cones

cone

support

(A,

Fig.

the

needle

threads

are

threaded

through

the

back

bar

the

thread

eyelet

(B),

under

the

middle

bar

and

through

the

center

holes

the

front

bar.

The

looper

threads

come

from

the

cones,

through

holes

the

middle

bar

from

back

front

and

then

through

the

two

outside

holes

the

front

bar.

threaded

through

the

upper

holes

tension

thread

guide

(C)

front

back

and

then

through

the

lower

holes

from

back

front.

The

threads

continue

between

the

tension

discs

(J),

through

tension

post

slot

(K)

tension

post

(G)

and

through

front

thread

guide

(M).

NOTE:

Refer

Fig.

for

threading

Styles

39500

FS,

FT,

FU,

GT,

and

MM,

refer

Fig.

for

threading

Styles

39500

and

GL.

THREADING

Only

parts

involved

threading

are

shown

threading

diagrams

(Fig.

and

lA).

Parts

are

placed

their

relative

positions

for

clarity.

will

simplify

the

threading

these

machines

the

recommended

quence

threading

lower

looper

first,

upper

looper

second,

and

needle

needles

third.

The

threading

Fig.

and

Fig.

are

the

same,

the

only

difference

will

the

threading

two

needle

threads

Fig.

compared

one

needle

thread

Fig.

The

additional

needle

Fig.

moves

the

lower

looper

thread

tension

post

the

right.

Before

beginning

thread,

swing

cloth

plate

open,

turn

handwheel

operating

direction

until

needle

(X)

high

position,

release

pressure

presser

foot

turning

presser

foot

release

bushing

(AG),

and

swing

presser

arm

(U)

out

posi-

tion.

sure

the

threads,

they

come

from

the

tension

thread

guide

(C),

are

be-

tween

the

tension

discs

(J)

and

tension

post

slot

(K)

tension

post

(G).

The

tens-

ion

posts

should

positioned

the

tension

post

slot

will

the

approximate

angle

for

the

different

threads

indicated

Fig.

and

lA.

THREAD

LOWER

LOOPER

Double

end

thread

and

lead

through

both

eyes

lower

looper

thread

eye

let

(R,

Fig.

lA)

from

right

left.

NOTE:

Thread

must

pass

front

looper

thread

pull-off

·(AF).

Lead

thread

behind

fabric

guard

(S)

and

through

hole

frame

looper

thread

guide

(T).

Turn

handwheel

operating

direction

until

heel

lower

looper

(V)

all

the

way

the

left;

then

thread

through

both

eyes

from

left

right.

Left

eye

lower

looper

can

threaded

easily

tweezers

are

left

hand.

THREAD

UPPER

LOOPER

Turn

handwheel

until

point

upper

looper

(W)

all

the

way

left.

Lead

thread

through

auxiliary

looper

thread

eyelet

(P)from

back

front,

then

through

both

eyes

upper

looper

thread

eyelet

(N)

from

left

right.

NOTE:

Thread

must

pass

front

looper

thread

pull-off

(AF).

After

pulling

upper

looper

thread

tube

assembly

(AA).

lead

thread

under

neck

top

cover

casting

and

down

through

thread

tube

sembly

(AA).

Pull

thread

out

bottom

tube;

push

tube

down,

then

insert

thread

through

upper

looper

eye

from

front

back.

CAUTION!

sure

upper

looperthread

under

lowerlooperthreadwhenpass-

ing

from

tube

assembly

upper

looper

eye.

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

THREAD

THE

NEEDLE

Turn

handwheel

operating

direction

until

needle

needles

(X.

Fig.

lA)

its

highest

position.

Insert

needle

thread

threads

from

right

left.

through

both

eyes

needle

thread

eyelet

(AD).

under

neck

top

cover

casting;

and

then

down

through

hole

holes

top

cover

needle

thread

eyelet

(AC).

Thread

needle

from

front.

THREAD

TENSION

The

amount

tension

needle

and

looper

threads

regulated

tension

nuts

(D.

Fig.

lA).

Tension

threads

should

only

enough

secure

proper

stitch

formation.

PRESSER

FOOT

PRESSURE

Sufficient

presser

foot

pressure

feed

work

uniformly

should

maintained.

Should

necessary

increase

decrease

amount

pressure

presser

foot.

loosen

lock

nut

(A.

Fig.

and

turn

adjusting

screw

(B).

Adjusting

screw

has

right

hand

thread

tightening

increases

pressure.

loosening

decreases

pressure.

When

pressure

adjusting

screw

(B)

has

been

properly

set.

tighten

lock

nut

(A).

With

presser

foot

resting

throat

plate.

position

locking

nut

(C)

that

its

under

surface

approximately

1/ 32

inch

1/16

inch

mm)

from

the

top

surface

ad-

justing

screw

(B).

Set

cap

(D)

against

locking

nut

(C).

FEED

ECCENTRICS

Fig.

Feed

eccentrics

used

Style

39500

machines

have

been

selected

produce

approximately

stitches

per

inch.

will

noted

that

the

part

number

main

feed

eccentric

No.

39540

B-14

while

that

the

differential

feed

eccentric

No.

39540

B-4.

Minor

numbers

the

part

symbol

indicate

approximately

the

number

stitches

obtainable

when

using

that

eccentric.

Unless

otherwise

specified.

machine

will

shipped

with

above

combination

eccentrics.

Refer

exploded

views

for

eccentrics

used

the

other

styles

machines

covered

this

catalog.

Generally

speaking.

the

main

(right

hand)

feed

eccentric

determines

the

number

stitches

produced;

the

differential

(left

hand)

feed

eccentric

selected

give

the

proper

differential

gathering

action.

Following

stitch

number

feed

eccentrics

are

available

under

No.

39540

B-4.

5.,

8.,

10. 11. 12. 13.

14.,

15.,

16.,

18.,

20.,

22. 24.

26.,

28.,

30.,

32.,

34. 36.

40.

Only

two

eccentrics

are

supplied

with

each

ma-

chine.

Additional

eccentrics

may

ordered

separ-

ately.

order

eccentric.

use

No.

39540

with

Fig.

minor

number

suffixed

indicate

number

stitches

desired.

Example:

"39540

B-14".

ASSEMBLING

AND

ADJUSTING

SEWING

PARTS

Before

assembling

and

adjusting

sewing

parts.

remove

cloth

plate.,

fabric

guard.,

chip

guard.,

upper

knife

assembly.

lower

knife

holder

assembly.

then

this

suggested

sequence.

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