Dillenger CONVERSION KIT Bedienungsanleitung
CONVERSION KIT
Please read through carefully before beginning your conversion
User Manual
Dillenger 1000W 48V 10Ah
English
2
SAFETY
PLEASE NOTE
Mechanical Safety Check:
Routinely check the condition of your bike. Make sure no fasteners have come loose. Perform
a visual inspection of the whole bicycle before every ride. Make sure tyres are correctly inated
within the range given on the tyre sidewall. Check your brakes for proper operation.
Your First Ride:
Be sure to pick an area away from cars, other cyclists, obstacles or other hazards to become
familiar with the controls, features and performance of your new electric bike.
We highly recommend the purchase of the Dillenger hub motor
conversion kit. It will make your installation and ongoing maintenance
much easier. This can be purchased online.
Thank you for purchasing your new Dillenger conversion kit! We know you’ll love it, and with
some care it should last for a very long time. Please read through this manual carefully before
operating the kit.
THANK YOU
3
ITEM CHECK LIST
Each conversion kit is tested for quality control before shipping to a customer. Before converting
your bike, it’s a good idea to lay each of the components out to visiualise how they will come
together on your bicycle.
●Before you begin your conversion, it can be helpful to lay everything out rst and make sure
all the parts are there.
●Something missing? Double check the box, even under the aps. Those small parts can be
sneaky. If you still can’t nd it let us know and we’ll assist you ASAP.
Wheel
Handle Bar Controls
Battery
RPAS
Charger
Cables
4
Contents
Thank you 2
SAFETY 2
Item check list 3
Install Overview 5
Parts OF THE KIT 6
Safety warning 7
Installation 8
Preparing for Installation 8
Installing the Wheel 9
Battery Install 10
Controller and Handlebar Controls 11
Display and E-brakes 12
Throttle and Grips 13
Removable Peddle Assist (RPAS) 14
RPAS and Tidy Up 15
Battery Operation 16
Charging 17
Maintenance and Care 18
Trouble Shooting 19
Trouble Shooting Continued 20
Specications 21
Contact Us 22
5
INSTALL OVERVIEW
Remove Contents
Take your components out of the box. Remove the
protective packaging. Keep track of all the parts that you
remove from the box. – Remove the battery and put it
on charge.
1.
Installation
Once you have your bike ready for installation, the rst
step (after transferring your rim take, tube and tyre) is
to install the wheel and secure the axle nuts. Take note
of the order or the washers so that you can replicate
this when installing onto the forks. Then move on to the
battery cradle and handlebar controls.
3.
Ride!
Once the battery is fully charged, you’ve checked your
tyre pressures and fasteners you’re now ready to go!
5.
Prepare you bike
Make sure you have measured your dropout slot
widths (approx. 10mm) and the clearance between your
dropouts (approx. 135mm for rear forks). Remove your
current wheel, remove the tyre, tube, rim tape and also
your handlebar grips, shifters and brakes.
2.
Tidy Up
After you have installed all of the components needed to
control each part of the kit, it’s now time to tidy up the
wiring harness and make your conversion look nice and
neat.
4.
6
KIT COMPONENTS
Below are some of the main components of your conversion kit.
Battery Rack Battery
Wheel/Motor
E-brake Handle
and Grip
Battery Cable
RPAS
Handlebar
Display
4-1 Cable
E-brake Handle
and Throttle
Wiring/Controller Bag
Controller
7
INSTALLATION PROCESS
Before beginning your conversion, there
are a couple things you can do that will
make the installation more ecient.
Remove your handlebar controls such as
your brakes, shifters and grips. Remove
your front wheel and install your existing
tube, tyre and rim tap (recommended)
onto the new electric wheel.
The rst step in any conversion is
installing the wheel. The easiest way to
take o your wheel is to turn your bike
upside down so that your bike rests on the
handlebars, and the seat. Your seat height
may need to be adjusted to ensure the
bike will be stable, when upside down.
Take o your disk brake caliper from the
forks, or release your V-brakes if you have
not done so already. For disk brake users,
it’s much easier to t the motor wheel with
the caliper removed.
8
Gear set install
The rear wheel hub motor uses a traditional freewheel type sprocket/gear set. This is very
common and you bike will generally either have this type, or a splined cassette type. Whilst it
is possible to remove your bikes existing freewheel, we strongly urge customers to purchase
a new free wheel from us or anywhere else that stocks freewheel gear sets.
Freewheels are considered to be a ‘one time’ only installation. Once they are fastened, they
can be very dicult to take o and transfer to another bike. It’s a relatively inexpensive
part and will save you time and money in the long run, to purchase a new one with your
conversion kit. We stock these freewheels online and instore for your convenience. You don’t
need any special tools to screw on and tighten the freewheel, as the act of pedaling tightens
the freewheel by design.
First step is to locate the spacer that is used to space the freewheel away from the hub. This
isn’t essential for 1, 6 or 7 speed gear sets, but it’s recommended. Once you’ve located the
small silver spacer (shown below) you can screw on (clockwise) the freewheel gently, taking
care not to cross thread the hub or gear set.
Just a note on gear sets. We stock 1, 6, 7, 8 and 9 speed freewheels. There is not enough
width in the rear forks for a 10 speed or more. For customers that are using a 10 speed or
more, you can get away with using the same shifters and adjust your dérailleur so that you
get the correct amount of travel from chain ring 1 to 9. Another option is to purchase a 9
speed shifter which is very aordable. For anyone that isn’t satised with a comprise on gear
sets to make space for a 1,000W hub motor (which is completely changing the entire bike),
then this kit is not for you.
For those with disk brakes, the disk brake rotor
installs onto the side of the motor hub just like a
regular hub.
You can use the existing bolts that are already
installed into the side of the hub. Simply loosen
the bolts, remove the black plastic spacer and
install your disk rotor.
Tighten the bolts as shown to maximum 5Nm (40
lbs) tightening torque. If you overtightened these
bolts, you may risk stripping the hub which is
not covered by warranty. If you’re not using disk
brakes, you can leave the bolts and spacer as they
are, or remove them completely. If you remove
the plastic spacer and tighten up the bolts without
a disk in place, the motor won’t spin freely.
If you don’t have disk brakes, you can leave this
side of the hub untouched.
9
Wheel Install
For those with disk brakes, the disk brake rotor
installs onto the side of the motor hub just like a
regular hub.
You can use the existing bolts that are already
installed into the side of the hub. Simply loosen
the bolts, remove the black plastic spacer and
install your disk rotor.
Tighten the bolts as shown to maximum 5Nm (40
lbs) tightening torque. If you overtightened these
bolts, you may risk stripping the hub which is
not covered by warranty. If you’re not using disk
brakes, you can leave the bolts and spacer as they
are, or remove them completely. If you remove
the plastic spacer and tighten up the bolts without
a disk in place, the motor won’t spin freely.
If you don’t have disk brakes, you can leave this
side of the hub untouched.
10
Wheel Install continued
Once you have installed the disk brake, loosen the axle nuts on the electric wheel. This
will allow the axle to slot into your dropouts. We are showing the most common way that
the fasteners can be arranged, but it is possible you will discover a more suitable way to
arrange them, depending on your bike and gear set layout. If you need to space the rear
forks out further, you can use the washers and spacers provided. If the you need more
room on the gear set side, space the hub over with the washers provided, or if you need
to space the hub evenly over to the disk brake side, you can rearrange the fasteners to
achieve this.
The distance between your dropouts should be around approx. 135mm. Your rear forks/
chain stays will ex in and out a certain amount without causing any structural issues.
The dropout axle slots should be approx. 10mm however you may need to le o a thin
layer of paint for the axle to slot in all the way. The axles are designed to be a very tight
t, so don’t stress if you need to remove a small amount of material, this is normal.
So long as the hub is orientated so that the freewheel thread side is on the chainwheel
side of the bike, it will rotate in the correct direction.
With your bike upside down, your wheel should be pushed all the way down into the
dropouts to make sure it’s a nice and tight t. This is very important. If the dropouts are not
embedded rmly in the bottom of the drop out slots this could cause failure of the forks or
cause the electric hub axle to become unsecured.
Tighten to approx. 30-40Nm (250 - 350 in lbs). If you would like to install the torque arm on
the rear wheel, please see the page over.
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