Frequency Central Stasis Leak Bedienungsanleitung

Frequency central

Build documentation for:

Stasis Leak

Chorus/tap delay/plate reverb

Stasis Leak is a 48kHz DSP effects module, providing a choice of stereo chorus, stereo plate reverb

and tap tempo delay. Stasis Leak is based around a Belton ABE-FX sub board, which in turn is based

around a Coolaudio V1000 chip.

What’s not included on this build doc: How to wire the whole thing together within an enclosure.

Maybe you know this bit already. Some hints on page 4.

Bypass LED resistor Tap LED resistor

Stasis Leak features 2 PCBs:

•Main PCB (schematic)

•Belton ABE-FX, a fully populated SMD PCB which plugs into the Pots ‘n’ sockets PCB

Please observe correct polarity of the electrolytic caps and ICs!

Bill of Materials

33R x 1

100R x 1

1K x 1

3K9 x 4

4K7 x 4

10K x 6

100K x 5

200K x 2

1M x 1

All resistors ¼ watt

metal film.

470pF x 4

100nF x 1

10uF x 3

47uF x 2

Belton ABE-FX

You can buy this from

me, or some other

place.

TL072 x 2

1N4148 x 1

5mm red LED x 2

B100K x 4

Pin Header

SPDT toggle x 1

on/off/on

3PDT footswitch x 1

Momentary

footswitch x1

For Tap Tempo

6.3mm socket x 2

DC socket x 1

1590BB enclosure

Affixing the Belton ABE-FX

The Belton plugs in to the Main PCB using a right angle header (see BOM above). Make sure you

mount the Belton the correct way around (see photos).

Tap Tempo

The momentary switch in the BOM can be used as either push to make or push to break. It’s worth

making sure you know which lug is which before soldering. For this application we need push to

make. See photo below. Connect one lug of the switch to the TAP pad on the PCB, connect the other

lug to ground (Gnd on the PCB). No need to connect the Tap LED to anything other than the PCB.

Main PCB:

Populate the Main PCB front first, as shown on the silkscreen, starting with the lowest profile

components, so:

•Resistors, diode

•IC sockets

•Header for Belton. You will need to space this off the board by 1mm or so. Wedge a credit

card between it and the PCB, then solder it in place. Return the credit card to your wallet.

•Non-electrolytic capacitors

•Electrolytic capacitors

Now populate the rear of the Main PCB:

•Potentiometers, on/off/on switch, LEDs

Building your Stasis Leak into an enclosure

The Stasis Leak PCB is designed to fit into a 1590BB enclosure.

The Bypass LED needs to have it’s pad on the PCB grounded, as part of your 3PDT wiring.

Please note that there are centre holes for the potentiometers on the PCB, you can use these to

mark your enclosure. Probably best to do this BEFORE you assemble the PCB.

Here’s a DXF file

Here’s a drill template:

RDH 06/12/19

https://www.frequencycentral.co.uk/

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