Mountain Models Eva Bedienungsanleitung

Eva

Extremely Versatile Airframe

Eva Specifications

Length: 32”

Weight (without battery): ~12oz.

Revision History

Date Revision Notes/Comments

6/3/05 Document initial creation.

Thank you for purchasing the Eva. This plane is an aileron/elevator/rudder (full house)

setup, designed for the intermediate to advanced pilot who wants a plane with

outstanding performance. Due to the number of wing options, the Eva can be flown as a

mild sport flyer, a pattern plane, or a 3D plane. You can quickly and easily swap out

wings.

Sincerely, Mountain Models

Doug Binder 465 D Street

[email protected] Penrose, CO 81240

www.mountainmodels.com

Phone: 719.372.6727

Before You Begin

Before you begin building your Eva make sure you read and understand all of the

instructions thoroughly.

Additionally, you will need to have the following items. Check to make sure that all of

your parts are there and in good shape, and review a couple quick building tips to make

this whole process go quicker and easier.

What You Will Need

•Smooth and flat work surface

•Wax paper to protect the plans

•Thin and thick Cyanoacrylate (CA) glue

•Quick set epoxy

•Hobby knife with #11 blades

•Needle nose pliers

•Wire cutters

•Sanding block with 200 grit sandpaper

•Covering material

•Sealing iron for applying the covering

•4 channel radio minimum

•GWS EPS350C-C or Brushless Motor

•2 aileron servos (we recommend either the Hitec HS55s or the GWS Picos)

•2 tail servos (we recommend either the Hitec HS55s or the GWS Picos)

•Electronic Speed Control (ESC) suitable for your motor

•8 cell 650 mAH NiMH pack (for Brushed Motor)

•3 cell 1200-1500 mAH LiPoly pack (for Brushless Motor)

Parts List

Number

in Kit Description of Part

Loose Wood Plastic, and Carbon

2 1/4” x 1/4” x 18”Balsa triangle stock

1 1/4” x 1/4” x 4”Balsa triangle stock

1 5” x 3/16” hardwood dowel for elevator

1 0.23” x15” carbon spar tube

2 10.5” Yellow Pushrod Tubing

Metal

2 .025” x 18” ” thin music wire for rudder and elevator pushrods

1 .032” x 18” ” thin music wire for the tail wheel and pushrods

1 Aluminum Landing Gear

Plastic

1 Plastic Canopy

1 Plastic Nose Cowl

Number

in Kit Description of Part

Bagged Parts

5 4-40 T Nuts

5 4-40 x 3/8” Phillips Head Bolts

7 #4 Washers

2 LYT43 wheels drilled out to 1/8”

1 1/2" tail wheel

2 4-40 x 1” bolts for wheel axles

4 4-40 Lock Nuts

1 #2 x 3/8” wood screw for motor retainer

1 6” Velcro strip for mounting the battery and receiver

1 6” double-sided Velcro strip for battery strap

2 Neodymium canopy hold down magnet

2 6” heat shrink tubing

1 ¾” x 1” Tyvek strip to retain tail wheel wire

1 3-32” Allen wrench

General Building Tips

•Balsa is a lightweight and fragile wood, so you do need to be careful with it;

however, you will also need to use a little bit of force to make everything fit

properly, so don’t be too timid.

•Join all of your pieces using thin CA (Cyanoacrylate) glue, unless we tell you

otherwise. In general, only a small amount of CA is necessary to glue parts

together.

•Don’t remove any pieces from the balsa sheets until they’re ready to be used.

That way, parts won’t get mixed up or disappear.

•After you remove pieces from the balsa sheets, carefully remove any of the extra

material from where the piece was attached.

•Don’t over force your pieces together. If they aren’t going together properly,

make sure you have the right pieces and that they are oriented correctly.

•If you want to remove the charred edges caused by the laser cutting process,

dampen a cloth with bleach and gently rub the affected areas. Removing the

char will not increase the strength but will make it look better.

Assembly Instructions

Experienced builders may notice that this building order

goes against the normal building conventions. We have found that fewer pieces get

mangled this way, since you are building the stronger pieces first. For example, the tail

feathers are at the end of the build process instead of the beginning, so that they are

less likely to get underfoot or under cat (which seems to be a recurring problem) and

are being built right before they are attached to the fuselage and each other.

Assembling the Fuselage

To remove the pieces, gently flex the balsa sheets until the pieces fall out.

You may find that you need to carefully trim the extra pieces of wood that

originally held the piece to the sheet.

1. Press the T nuts into the front former and the landing gear mount. You will need to

hammer the T nuts fully in.

2. Place the second and third formers into the fuselage bottom, along with the landing

gear mount and the two 1/16 ply former doublers. Ensure that the formers are

perpendicular to the bottom sheet. Glue with thick CA or, preferably, epoxy to

withstand the landing loads.

3. Position the rest of the bulkheads on to the fuselage bottom. Ensure the bulkheads

are well seated and perpendicular to the bottom sheet and glue with thin CA.

4. Position the fuselage sides but don’t glue. Tack the fuselage sides to the fuselage

bottom by placing a small drop of glue on the joint between the side and the bottom

between each bulkhead. Don’t get any glue on the bulkheads.

5. Add the 1/16” balsa fuselage side doublers. The fat halves of the doublers go towards

the rear of the fuselage. The tops of the front half of the doublers are flush with the

top of the fuselage sides. Glue the doublers to the fuselage sides and the fuselage

sides to the bulkheads and bottom sheet. Glue the rear of the fuselage sides together.

6. Slide the 18” x ¼” balsa triangle stock under the fuselage formers. The stock will end

1/8” behind the front of the fuselage. Glue the stock to the fuselage sides and bottom

along the entire length of the stock.

7. Position and glue the rear crutch to the fuselage.

8. Glue the two pushrod guide tubes into position. They should extend just past the

forth bulkhead from the rear and just clear the opening in the rear of the fuselage.

9. The top of the turtledeck is made from two pieces of 1/16” balsa glued together to

make a “T”. Glue the “T” to the rear formers.

10. Position and glue a 1/32” spacer strip on the fuselage doubler then glue a 1/32” balsa

turtledeck side to the spacer.

11. Wet the 1/32” balsa turtledeck side to make it bend better and glue the top of the

1/32” balsa to the “T” you just installed.

12. Install the other 1/32” balsa turtledeck. Sand the 1/32” balsa that extends past the

“T” so that it is flush with the top of the “T”.

13. Glue the 1/16” turtledeck top to the “T” then sand it round.

14. Carefully align the 1/16” ply wing spar reinforcements to the sides of the fuselage.

15. Attach the front crutch to the firewall then install both parts into the fuselage. Note

that the T nuts are on the same side as the crutch.

16. Cut two pieces of triangle stock to 1.75” and glue as shown to reinforce the firewall.

17. Glue the four 1/8” balsa rear turtledeck blocks.

18. Sand the blocks to shape.

19. Sand the fuselage smooth. Round the bottom edges of the fuselage. You will sand

deep into the triangle stock to give the bottom a rounded shape. Note where the

stock ends so that you don’t sand the rear of the fuselage too much. The front of the

fuselage needs to be rounded quite a bit so that the nose cowl will fit. Use the nose

cowl as a guide to see when you have sanded enough.

20. Glue the 1/16” ply tailwheel wire support to the bottom rear of the fuselage so that

the hole is just past the rear of the fuselage.

21. Glue the canopy magnet shelf into place.

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