Rapido GMD-1 Bedienungsanleitung

GMD-1 Rebuild

OPERATOR’S

MANUAL

FRANÇAIS AU VERSO

REBUILT GMD-1 LOCOMOTIVE PRODUCT GUIDELINES

Thank you for purchasing this model of CN’s rebuilt GMD-1… The One With The Stripes.

All you modern-era model railroaders bugged us for this version since the ﬁrst day we

announced we were making a GMD-1 back in 2012. We are certain you will not be

disappointed. We have tooled all three rebuilt GMD-1 series – the 1400s, the 1600s,

and the 1430-1444 series of retrucked 1600s.

If this is your ﬁrst Rapido locomotive, well hello! It’s nice to meet you! We must say you

are looking particularly handsome today. And we look forward to you owning many

more Rapido products in the future. This manual is full of useful and interesting informa-

tion for you to get the utmost pleasure out of your GMD-1 model. Did we mention how

handsome you are? We hope you will take the time to read it, enjoy our witty yet ac-

cessible humour, and perhaps make a life-long friend. Someone as cultured, classy and

elegant as your kind self only deserves the best that the model railroad industry has to

offer.

If you are a returning customer, just put the darn thing on the track, note the ditch lights

are on F6, and don’t burn it up with a cheap DC controller.

As always, if there is anything amiss with your GMD-1 please do not hesitate to con-

tact us. We stand by our products 100%. The best way to contact us is through email

([email protected]) but you can reach us by phone or Canada Post as well.

Please do not send a faulty model back to us without ﬁrst getting authorization. If you

bought this model in 2017, stuck it under your layout, died 30 years later, had your

family sell it in an estate sale, and it is being opened for the ﬁrst time by its new owner

in 2055… Don’t call us. We’re all retired and living the good life at Joey’s Yak Farm and

Yoga Spa in Cochabamba, Bolivia.

Rapido Trains Inc.

500 Alden Road, Unit 21

Markham, Ontario

L3R 5H5 Canada

Tel. (905) 474-3314 - Toll Free 1-855-LRC-6917

Fax. (905) 474-3325

Email. [email protected]

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Prototype History ...............................................................................................4

Break-In ............................................................................................................5

Which Way is the Front?.....................................................................................5

How to Hold Your GMD-1...................................................................................5

Ditch Lights........................................................................................................6

Checking and Adjusting Your Locomotive..............................................................6

Missing or Damaged Parts ..................................................................................7

Removing the Shell.............................................................................................7

Operation – DC (Silent) ......................................................................................7

Installing a Silent DCC Decoder...........................................................................8

Operation – DC (Sound) .....................................................................................8

Operation – DCC with Sound..............................................................................9

• Locomotive Address ...............................................................................9

• Turn On the Sound ...............................................................................10

• Functions ............................................................................................11

• Functions: More Information ..................................................................12

• Horns .................................................................................................14

• Sound Volume Settings .........................................................................14

• Sound Volume Settings Chart ................................................................15

• Factory Reset ......................................................................................16

• Awesome Slow Speed Thingy ...............................................................16

• More Information ................................................................................16

• Limited Lifetime Warranty .....................................................................16

• Acknowledgements ..............................................................................17

GMD-1 DCC FUNCTION QUICK REFERENCE

F0 HEADLIGHTS F11 DOPPLER HORN - FAST

F1 BELL F12 SWITCHING MODE

F2 HORN F14 NUMBER BOARDS

F3 CURVE SQUEAL F15 BRAKE

F4 FULL THROTTLE F20 SARCO VALVE (SPITTER) - SLOW

F5 DOPPLER HORN - SLOW F21 SARCO VALVE (SPITTER) - FAST

F6 DITCH LIGHTS F22 SARCO AFTER SHUTDOWN

F7 DIMMER F23 BRAKE SET/RELEASE

F8 STARTUP/MUTE/SHUTDOWN

F9 CLASS LIGHTS - FRONT

F10 CLASS LIGHTS - REAR

PROTOTYPE HISTORY

1600-Series GMD-1A

In 1988 CN rebuilt 15 more GMD-1 locomotives for continued branchline use on the

Prairies. Unlike the 1100s, this was a major rebuild performed by CN’s Pointe St-Charles

shops in Montreal. The batteries were removed from the short hood and replaced with a

chemical toilet and access door; the batts were moved outboard beside the short hood.

The units received anticlimbers, ditch light brackets, improved spark arrestors, straight

exhaust stacks, upgraded sanding, snowplows, improved traction motors, and Wabco

26L brakes (replacing the old 6SL and 26L systems). The cabs were re-oriented to run

short hood forward, and interior facilities were improved – they now had a fridge! The

1600-series units were called GMD-1A and received the class designation GR-612A.

Most importantly for railfans, the 1600-series GMD-1 locomotives received what would

become the deﬁnitive GMD-1 paint scheme: red short hood and gorgeous striped long

hood. These were instantly recognizable to railfans from a distance and came to symbol-

ize Canadian branchline trafﬁc in the 1990s.

1400-Series GMD-1B

CN followed the 1600-series rebuilds in 1988 with the 1400-series rebuilds in 1989.

The GMD-1B, classiﬁed GR-412B, is mechanically very similar to its 1600-series cousin.

The main differences are the larger, 2000 gallon fuel tank and the 4-wheel, Flexicoil

trucks. The 1400s also received a toilet, accessed from inside the cab. According to one

CN engineer who has operated the GMD-1 locomotives since the dark ages, the addi-

tion of toilets was a reﬂection of the fact that railroading was no longer a boys-only club.

The women engineers requested toilets in more units. Operation of the 1400s remained

long-hood forward.

1400-1402 were rebuilt from 1917, 1916 and 1913 respectively, thus retaining their

original Flexicoil trucks. The remaining 1400s done in 1989 (numbers 1403-1423)

were rebuilt from 1000-series GMD-1 locomotives using the trucks from retired GP9

engines.

The 1400s and 1600s received upgraded power assemblies, effectively creating a

645C prime mover rather than its original 567C. The 1100s did not receive upgraded

engines.

1400-1437 Series Retrucked 1600s

Between 1998 and 2000, all 15 1600-series GMD-1 locomotives were rebuilt to 1400s

using the trucks and fuel tanks from retired 1100s. Just to add some interest for railfans,

these were numbered 1430-1444.

At the time of writing, many GMD-1 locomotives are still in service today and there is

talk of a further rebuild program.

BREAK-IN

Don’t break in to anyone’s layout room to steal their GMD-1. Just buy more for yourself.

But this isn’t about that kind of break-in.

Every locomotive needs a break-in period. Your GMD-1 has been tested at our new LRC

factory for about two minutes. That is not enough time to get the gears to mesh nicely

or to even out any jerky operation in a new motor. We suggest that, after reading this

manual, you put your GMD-1 on a test loop and just let it run in each direction for an

hour or two. Fast and slow.

There already should be enough grease in the gearbox so you don’t need to add any.

Just let the thing run.

WHICH WAY IS FRONT?

The 1600-series GMD-1A locomotives were conﬁgured to operate short-hood forward,

as they did when retrucked into 1400-1434. But the 1400-series GMD-1Bs, they were

left to operate long-hood forward when they were rebuilt. Your DCC-equipped models

reﬂect these differences. If you wish to change the direction that your GMD-1 operates

in, you can use CV29. Simply read the value for CV29, and then add 1 to that value.

Simple!

HOW TO HOLD YOUR GMD-1

The GMD-1 has numerous very delicate parts. If you want to back date it to be the qual-

ity of a model produced in 1978, then rip all the parts off. We’re assuming you don’t

want to do that, so the GMD-1 should be picked up carefully. The fuel tank and the

middle of the long hood are both easily accessed and well balanced — if your hands

are big enough, the best way to pick up the unit is to grab it from above with your thumb

and foreﬁnger on either side of the fuel tank. Always make sure your hands are free of

shmutz before touching your engine.

If you are taking your GMD-1 to the club all the time and regularly handling it, stuff will

break off. We suggest wrapping your GMD-1 in a plastic bag before placing it in the

packaging or in your holder so you can catch bits that fall off. White glue is the recom-

mended adhesive for reattaching the bits, although you can also use CA if you are very

careful and very brave.

DITCH LIGHTS

The neatest innovation on our rebuilt GMD-1 model is the ditch lights. We’re very happy

with the way the ditch lights turned out and we hope you will be too. It is extremely dif-

ﬁcult to make deck-mounted, tall-stalk ditch lights that actually work.

One particular challenge that cannot be easily surmounted is that the real GMD-1 ditch

lights were removable. This means that they could be installed at either end of the real

thing. We checked 100s of photographs and there really was no rhyme or reason, but

we did ﬁnd that in later years they tended to be left on both ends. Consequently, we

have mounted the ditch light at the respective “front” ends of the 1400s and 1600s, and

we’ve mounted them on both ends of 1430-44.

We will be selling the ditch lights separately if you would like to install ditch lights on

both ends of your 1400s. It was very rare to see ditch lights on the long-hood end of a

1600.

CHECKING AND ADJUSTING YOUR LOCOMOTIVE

We try and make sure that every locomotive is perfectly up to spec before it leaves the

factory, but if the karaoke was particularly good the night before your model was as-

sembled there may be a couple of bugs. Doing a quick pre-service check will solve most

operational glitches.

• Check to see that all wheelsets are correctly in gauge using an NMRA RP-2

Standards Gauge. Should any of the wheelsets be out of gauge, then remove the

affected wheelset from the truck by prying off the bottom lid of the gearbox with a

small ﬂat screwdriver and then spreading apart the sideframes. The wheelset can

be regauged by grabbing each wheel and twisting. Reverse the steps to replace

the wheelset, and ensure the gearbox cover is snapped into place before placing

it on the track.

• Check that all underbody piping and appliances are ﬁrmly installed and clear of

the track. Of particular note are the air hoses on the ends of the locomotive and

both coupler trip pins. Bend up any low coupler trip pins so they don’t interfere

with your switches and crossings. We recommend using Kadee part #237 (Trip

Pin Pliers) or Micro-Mark part #80600 (Trip Pin Bending Plier).

• Make sure that the trucks swivel freely and without binding. If they catch on any-

thing, check to ensure that the ends of the trucks don’t bind against the steps. If

they do, see that everything is ﬁrmly installed.

MISSING OR DAMAGED PARTS

If you open your GMD-1 box and discover that something has obviously been bumped

in transit and is damaged, please contact us. We know that some of you don’t like to

touch your models, but if it is a matter of gluing an exhaust stack back on you can do it

yourself in less than a minute with a drop of white glue. If you really want to send your

model back to us for us to install that, we would be happy to. But if you do send it back

to us for us to put that one part back on and other stuff falls off when we send it back to

you, then tough tooties. We’re not ﬁxing it again.

If you see some grab irons are missing and they are not ﬂoating around the packaging,

let us know and we will send you replacements. More information about our limited

lifetime warranty can be found towards the end of this manual.

REMOVING THE SHELL

If you need to open up your GMD-1 (to install a crew, install a decoder, etc.) it is actually

quite easy to do. Just be sure to remember these important points:

• We have a transporter lock on the molecular pattern of your locomotive. If some-

thing pops off while you are removing the shell, our starship’s transporters will

automatically lock on to the little part and beam it directly into the heart of the sun.

Don’t bother looking for it. It’s gone. You might hear the transporter effect as the

part is beamed away. I know it would have been more useful for us to beam the

part back onto your workbench but someone’s been ﬁddling with our transporters

and we haven’t been able to ﬁx them. Sorry.

• To that end, please make every effort to ensure nothing ﬂies away. Work on a

clean, white surface. In fact, paint all the walls, the ﬂoor and the ceiling white,

wear white coveralls, and remove everything else from within a three-mile radius

of your workbench, especially (but not limited to) vegetation, people and wind.

• Turn the locomotive upside down in a foam cradle (painted white, of course) and

remove the coupler screws. Pull the coupler boxes out of the ends and turn the

loco right-way up. Now wiggle the shell off. Carefully. Remember the transporter

lock.

• That’s it, really.

• No, really. That’s it.

• Be aware that for the ﬁrst time, we have wires between the chassis and the shell.

Don’t yank too hard.

OPERATION - DC (SILENT)

If your GMD-1 locomotive is not equipped with a sound decoder, it should function like

most other HO scale locomotives. Put it on the track. Give it some juice. Watch it go.

If you are new to the hobby (or just like to occasionally “play trains”) and you have a

DC-powered train set, please contact us before operating your GMD-1 as it may not be

safe (for your engine and/or your wallet) for you to use your controller.

Some train set throttles put out a very high maximum voltage that is not suitable for scale

model trains. The maximum recommended voltage is 16 volts DC. Similarly, controllers

designed for large scale trains put out a much higher voltage than your GMD-1 can

handle.

If you use a train set throttle or a throttle designed for large scale trains, your locomo-

tive’s circuitry may end up looking like those “your brain on drugs” commercials. In

such situations, we’ll try our best to ﬁx it for you. But we may have to charge you for the

replacement parts and/or the labour involved. That’s because you didn’t read this bit

of the manual. In DC, the number boards are always on and the headlights/ditch lights

are directional. The class lights are installed and wired, but they will not work in DC.

INSTALLING A SILENT DCC DECODER

The GMD-1 contains an ESU-designed motherboard which is connected to the track,

motor and lighting outputs. A blind plug is attached to the motherboard using a 21-pin

connector. To install a decoder, remove the blind plug and install a 21-pin decoder

(recommended) or a 21-pin adapter to attach an 8-pin or a 9-pin decoder. Your chosen

decoder should have six function outputs.

At the time of writing, we recommend the following 21-pin decoder:

• ESU #54615 - LokPilot V4.0 DCC with 21MTC

We feel the 21-pin connectors are superior because there are enough pins to ensure that

all your lighting functions are connected. The necessary resistors are included on our

ESU-designed motherboard so you don’t have to futz around with resistors. Just plug in

the recommended decoder and you have DCC.

ESU has made a GMD-1 function mapping which can be downloaded into their non-

sound decoder (54615) so that the function buttons and motor control are exactly the

same as our factory-released sound versions. This is available for download on the

GMD-1 page in the Support section of our web site. You will need an ESU LokProgram-

mer to write the function mapping to the 54615 decoder. If you don’t have a LokPro-

grammer, you can adjust CVs in the usual way.

We will be selling rebuilt GMD-1 sound decoders separately; if they aren’t on our web

site by the time you read this, call Dan Garcia at the ofﬁce and yell at him.

OPERATION – DC (SOUND)

To operate your sound-equipped GMD-1 locomotive on a DC layout, just give the throttle

some juice. The engine will start up once sufﬁcient voltage has been reached (around

seven volts). See the note above (in Operation – DC (Silent)) about using train-set or

large-scale throttles. With DC layouts, you have very little control over the sounds of

your model.

WARNING: If you have purchased a sound-equipped GMD-1 and you

operate your trains with a Model Rectiﬁer Corporation RailPower 1300

DC controller, stop what you are doing immediately. Do not pass Go.

Do not collect $200. The RailPower 1300 is notorious for voltage spikes

and it WILL destroy your locomotive. There is no “if” about it. We will

not repair any GMD-1 destroyed by a 1300 or any other “train set”

DC controller. “Train set” DC controllers should not be used with sound-

equipped locomotives.

The only lights that work in DC are the headlights, ditch lights and number boards. You

can’t turn on the class lights in DC. Some throttle manufacturers produce special doo-

dads which are meant to trigger the sounds in locomotives on DC layouts. As we have

no involvement in the development of those doo-dads, we have absolutely no idea how

they will affect your GMD-1, for good or for ill. As always, we’ll try to help you ﬁx your

GMD-1 if one of these doo-dads scrambles your locomotive’s circuitry, but we can’t

guarantee we’ll be able to.

It is usually at this point in the manual that Jason inserts a gentle dig at his fellow mod-

ellers who won’t switch from DC to DCC. He has chosen not to do that this time around,

because the last time he made fun of people still using DC he was kidnapped by a band

of journeymen from the masons’ guild, tied to a bale of hay with straps made at the local

tannery, and burned at the stake for being a warlock. Luckily he got better.

If you want a taste of what you are missing by not switching to DCC, please read on…

OPERATION – DCC WITH SOUND

We go to extreme lengths for accuracy, in sounds as well as in looks. Our sound decod-

ers are LokSound Select decoders by ESU, programmed with sounds we recorded from

a rebuilt SW1200RS, which has the same prime mover, exhaust and hood design as the

rebuilt GMD-1. So you can rest assured that the sounds are bang-on accurate. We did

not just toss our original GMD-1 sounds onto the decoder as the rebuilt GMD-1 sounds

completely different.

As we do for all of our sound decoders, we recorded the prime mover under load – it

was hauling loaded ballast hoppers. Locomotives sound a lot different when they are

working. If you have decoders from other manufacturers in your locomotives you might

want to check out the available line of Rapido decoders on our web site. All of our de-

coder sounds were recorded under load and we simply can’t stand decoders that don’t

have this feature.

More detailed decoder instructions, including all sorts of weird CV settings we don’t

understand, can be found in the ESU Loksound Select decoder manual. This is available

for download on the GMD-1 page in the Support section of our web site.

LOCOMOTIVE ADDRESS

Your Rapido GMD-1 comes from the factory with a decoder address of 3. We suggest if

you are using DCC control that you ﬁrst test that the locomotive responds on address 3.

Once you have veriﬁed that the locomotive is responding you should assign it a unique

address (we suggest the road number of the locomotive) before going any further. This

can be done either on your programming track (recommended) or on the main if your

system supports programming on the main. Be aware however that if you do program

the locomotive on the main and you have any other locomotives on your layout assigned

to address 3 (the normal default address for new locomotives) that ALL of them will likely

also be changed to your new address! Also be aware that if you give your locomotive a

four-digit address it will not work at all if you try to run it on a friend’s DC layout.

Also please keep in mind that some DCC systems do not have sufﬁcient power to pro-

gram sound-equipped locomotives on the mainline. If your sounds do not operate cor-

rectly on a Digitrax DCC system, this likely means that you need to clear the memory

on your system, achieved by “clearing slot #36.” A basic summary of how to do this

can be found on the GMD-1 page in the Support section of our web site. More detailed

information can be found on the Digitrax web site.

If you have a really old DCC system, you may ﬁnd that this locomotive won’t work at

all – nor will many other new models. Go update your DCC system to a newer version.

Your computer is updated regularly. Your DCC system should be updated as well.

TURN ON THE SOUND

Press F8 and you will hear the GMD-1 startup sequence followed by the sound of it

idling. You can adjust CVs to prevent the locomotive from moving until the startup se-

quence has played out. Jason is really impatient so he turned this feature off. Refer to

a full ESU LokSound Select decoder manual for more information. You can download it

from the GMD-1 page in the Support section of our web site. The feature is called the

“Prime Mover Startup Delay” and at the time of writing it was on page 35 of the ESU

manual.

If you press F8 when the locomotive is already moving, it will skip the startup and the

sound will just turn on. Press F8 again to turn the sound off.

Note that if you are listening to your GMD-1 idling nicely and then you select another

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