Chef's Choice Trizor XV Bedienungsanleitung

MODEL 15 I STRUCTIO S

Trizor XV™Knife Sharpener

EdgeSelect®—15° Edge Angle

Read these instructions before use.

It is essential that you follow these

instructions to achieve optimum results.

IMPOR AN SAFEGUARDS

When using electrical appliances, basic safety precautions should always be

followed including the following:

1. Read all instructions. Every user should read this manual.

2. To protect against electrical hazards, do not immerse the Chef’sChoice®Trizor XV™

Model 15 in water or other liquid.

3. Make sure that only clean knife blades are inserted in Trizor XV™ Model 15.

4. Unplug from outlet when not in use, before putting on or taking off parts and before cleaning.

5. Avoid contacting moving parts.

6. Do not operate any appliance with a damaged cord or plug or after the appliance

malfunctions, or is dropped or damaged in any manner.

U.S. customers: You can return your sharpener to EdgeCraft’s factory for service where

the cost of repair or electrical or mechanical adjustment can be estimated. When the

electrical cord on this appliance is damaged, it must be replaced by the Chef’sChoice®

distributor or other qualified service to avoid the danger of electrical shock.

Outside U.S.: Please return your sharpener to your local distributor where the cost of

repair or electrical or mechanical adjustment can be estimated. If the supply cord of this

appliance is damaged, it must be replaced by a repair facility appointed by the manufac-

turer because special tools are required. Please consult your Chef’sChoice®distributor.

7. CAUTION! This appliance may be fitted with a polarized power plug (one blade is wider

than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug will fit in a polarized outlet

only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does

not fit, contact a qualified electrician. Do ot modify the plug i a yway.

8. The use of attachments not recommended or sold by EdgeCraft Corporation may cause

fire, electric shock or injury.

9. The Chef’sChoice®Trizor XV™ Model 15 is designed to sharpen American, European, and

Asian style knives. Do not attempt to sharpen scissors, ax blades or any blade that does

not fit freely in the slots.

10.Do not let the cord hang over edge of table or counter or touch hot surfaces.

11.When in the “ON” position (Red flash on switch is exposed when “ON”), the

Chef’sChoice®sharpener should always be on a stable countertop or table.

12.WARNING: KNIVES PROPERLY S ARPENED ON YOUR TRIZOR XV™ MODEL 15 WILL BE

S ARPER T AN YOU EXPECT. TO AVOID INJURY, USE AND ANDLE T EM WIT

EXTREME CARE. DO NOT CUT TOWARD ANY PART OF YOUR FINGERS, AND OR BODY.

DO NOT RUN FINGER ALONG EDGE. STORE IN A SAFE MANNER.

13.Do not use outdoors.

14.Close supervision is necessary when any appliance is used by or near children or

the infirm.

15.Do not use honing oils, water or any other lubricant with the Trizor XV™ Model 15.

16.For household use only.

17.SAVE T ESE INSTRUCTIONS.

YOU MADE A GOOD CHOICE

The Trizor XV™ Model 15 Sharpener from Chef’sChoice®is the world’s first sharpener

designed specially to create the exceedingly sharp and effective Trizor™XV, edge on all

household cutlery. Now you can enjoy knives that slice with astonishingly ease, yet have

the durability of the acclaimed Trizor®edge.

The Trizor XV™ edge gives you the superior edge durability of the Chef’sChoice®triple bevel

Trizor®edge while forming each of the major edge facets at 15 degrees (30º total) for a

sharpness that matches the best of Asian knives. Asian artisans devoted lifetimes to develop

the skills required to hand sharpen edges of this quality. Now you can with the Trizor XV™

Sharpener sharpen, hone and strop to the same perfection in a matter of seconds.

The Chef’sChoice®Model 15 is designed to place this superior 15 degree Trizor XV™ edge

on all of your household knives whether they are European, American, Japanese, or other

Asian styles. Virtually all European and American style household knives are factory sharp-

ened with edge facets at 20 degrees. Most of the Asian knives, however are sharpened at

15º on each side of the edge and that has established their reputation for edge sharpness.

UNDERS ANDING HE RIZOR XV™ EDGE

The original Trizor®edge, an innovation from Chef’sChoice®has long been acknowledged

for its superior sharpness and durability. Its uniqueness is the result of the triple bevel

design of each of the two edge facets that meet to form the edge.

The Trizor®design uses multiple diamond abrasives of successively finer grits to shape the

facets into a modified gothic arch to create an edge that has added strength, durability, and

sharpness. In the original Trizor®edge the major edge angle is created at 20 degrees.

The new Trizor XV™ edge is likewise made by a three step sharpening, honing and

stropping process but the major edge angle is set at 15º (See Figure 1) for added

sharpness and effortless use.

You will appreciate the reduced effort in cutting and the enhanced sharpness. Remember

the edge will be sharper than you expect.

Figure 1. The Trizor®

XV Edge is sharper

with the added

durability of the

triple bevel edge.

30°

15°

The Trizor XV™ Edge

40°

20°

Conventional 20° Edge

GE ING ACQUAIN ED WI H HE RIZOR XV™ SHARPENER – MODEL 15

The Model 15, Figure 2 is a three stage sharpener with 100% diamond abrasives in the

first two stages to sharpen and hone the edge, followed in Stage 3 with the Chef’sChoice®

proprietary stropping/polishing disks to create an astonishingly sharp edge. You will find it

easy to convert any of your household knives to the new Trizor XV™, 15 degree edge. It is

very likely that all of your conventional kitchen knives whether European or American

brands have been sharpened through the years at about 20 degrees. owever, if you have

any Asian design knives, they were likely sharpened at 15 degrees at the factory; these

can be restored to factory-new condition in just minutes. All traditional-single beveled-

Asian knives such as sashimi knives require special care and must be sharpened prima-

rily on one side of the edge. All other Asian blades are sharpened by the same procedures

as the European/American brand knives.

You will find you can also sharpen your serrated blades with the Model 15 by following the

special instructions included on page 12.

The Model 15 retains the popular EdgeSelect®feature, introduced by Chef’sChoice®, which

allows you to sharpen each knife according to your intended use, such as gourmet food

preparation, butchering, dressing of game or of fish. The three stages can be used in

different sequences, for example to give you either an astonishingly sharp, smooth faceted

edge for effortless cutting or one with a selected amount of residual “bite” – ideal for cutting

fibrous food, meats, stalky vegetables or dressing of game.This feature is described in detail

in a following section.

The Model 15 is equipped with a manually actuated diamond dressing system that can be

used, when necessary, to clean any accumulated food or sharpening debris from the

surface of the ultrafine abrasive Stage 3 polishing/stropping disks. We strongly urge that

you always thoroughly clean your knives before sharpening them. Unless you are a heavy

user of the sharpener, you will be able to sharpen for months or even a year or more before

you need to dress the stropping/polishing disks. Only if you sense a distinct decrease in

polishing efficiency in Stage 3 is there any need to use this convenient feature described

on page 13.

Figure 2. The Model 15 Trizor XV knife sharpener.

Stage 1

Left

slot

Right

slot

Stage 3

Left

slot

Right

slot

Knife

Holding

Spring

Power switch

Handle

Tip Edge

Choil

Bolster

Figure 3. A typical kitchen knife.

Stage 2

Left

slot

Right

slot

Back

Because of their heavy duty and specialized blade designs we do not recommend the

Model 15 for the very thick European cleavers or the heavy hunting knives with concave

blade faces. These can be readily sharpened in Models 120, 130, 2000, and 2100. The

Model 15 is ideal for sharpening Asian cleavers and fish fillet knives.

Never operate the sharpener from the back side. Use just enough downward pressure

when sharpening to ensure uniform and consistent contact of the blade edge with the

abrasive disks on each stroke. (See Suggestion 5, page 14). Additional pressure is unneces-

sary and will not speed the sharpening process. Avoid excessive cutting into the plastic

enclosure.Accidental cutting into the enclosure however will not functionally impact operations

of the sharpener or damage the edge.

Try a practice pull through the sharpener before you turn on the power. Slip the knife blade

smoothly into the left slot between the left angle guide of Stage 1 and the plastic knife

holding spring. Do not twist the knife. Move the blade down in the slot until you feel it

contact the diamond disk. Pull it towards you lifting the handle slightly as you approach the

tip. This practice pull will give you a feel for the spring tension. Remove the knife and read

the following instructions specific to the type of knife you will be sharpening.

HOW O CREA E HE RIZOR XV™ EDGE ON

EURO/AMERICAN AND CON EMPORARY ASIAN BLADES

If you have European or American brand knives, it is extremely easy to convert their edge

to the Trizor XV™ (15 degree) edge. The procedure outlined here applies equally to

sharpening contemporary Asian blades. The edge of Euro/American and contemporary Asian

knives are identical in that they are sharpened on both sides of the edge. If you have any

uncertainty about the type of Asian blades you wish to sharpen, refer to their

description on pages 10 and 11.Virtually all Asian blades are factory sharpened at 15 degrees.

To convert from the existing Euro/American edge to the Trizor XV™ edge or to sharpen

contemporary Asian blades, start with the Sharpening Stage 1 as follows:

EURO/AMERICAN AND CON EMPORARY ASIAN BLADES

S AR IN SHARPENING S AGE 1

Turn ON the power and pull the length of blade thru the left slot (Figure 4) and then thru

the right slot of Stage 1, using the left and right slots on alternate pulls. (Take about

3-4 seconds for each pull of a 5” long blade). The first time you sharpen an European or

American knife it may take up to 20 pair of pulls to fully re-angle the edge of a thin blade.

Thicker blades will require more pulls. Check for a burr as described below and continue

to make more pulls if necessary to create a small burr along the entire length of the blade.

If you are sharpening a contemporary Asian blade (which probably has been sharpened

previously at 15 degrees) you will find that only a few (1-2) pairs of alternating pulls (alter-

nating left and right slots) will be needed to develop a burr. Do not over sharpen. When you

have developed a burr along the full blade length proceed to Stage 2.

DE EC ING HE BURR

To confirm the presence of a burr (see Figure 5) move your forefinger carefully across the

edge in the direction shown. Do not move your finger along the edge – to avoid cutting your

finger. If the last pull was in the right slot, the burr will appear only on the right side of the

blade as you normally hold it and vice versa. The burr, when present, feels like a rough and

bent extension of the edge; the opposite side of the edge feels very smooth by comparison.

If there is no burr continue sharpening in Stage 1, alternating left and right slots until a full

burr develops. When a burr is present along the entire blade length proceed as below to

Stage 2.

HONING IN S AGE 2

Make about 1 or 2 pairs of pulls through Stage 2 (Figure 6) alternating each pull in the left

and right slots. Take about 3 seconds for each pull on a 5 inch (12 cm) long blade.

Check for a burr before proceeding to Stage 3. If necessary make additional pairs of pulls

to develop a burr along the entire length of blade before proceeding to Stage 3.

Figure 5. When you create a distinct burr along the

blade edge, it can be detected by sliding finger across

and away from the edge. Caution! See text.

Figure 4. Sharpen Euro/American and contemporary

Asian knives first in Stage 1.

S ROPPING/POLISHING HE EDGE IN S AGE 3

Pull the blade through the left slot of Stage 3 (see Figure 7) and then through the right slot

of Stage 3. Make 3 pairs of pulls, alternating each pull in the left and right slots. You should

take about 3 to 4 seconds for each pull for a 5 inch (12 cm) long blade.

Then make 2 pairs of alternating faster pulls in this Stage, about 1 second per pull for a

5 inch (12 cm) blade to put a final polish on the edge.

Check the blade for sharpness. For a sharper edge make a few more pairs of fast pulls and

check for sharpness.

RE-SHARPENING EURO/AMERICAN AND CON EMPORARY ASIAN BLADES

Re-sharpen following the Stropping/Polishing procedure in Stage 3 as described above.

Depending on its use, you should be able to re-sharpen to a razor sharp edge 3 or more times

using only Stage 3 before finding it necessary to again hone in Stage 2. one in Stage 2 only

when you find it is taking too long or too many pulls in Stage 3 to bring the edge to razor

sharpness. In that event, follow the honing and stropping/polishing sequence in Stages 2 and

3 as described above.

SHARPENING HE RADI IONAL (SINGLE BEVEL)

JAPANESE BLADE

Traditional Japanese knives such as the sashimi blade shown here are single sided and

have a large factory bevel (see Bevel A, Figure 10c) on the front side of the blade. There

are a large number of manufacturers of knives of this type used widely to prepare sashimi.

The factory bevel (Bevel A) is commonly ground at about 10 degrees, but there are

exceptions and that angle is not standardized at the factories. Designs of the

Figure 6. Honing in Stage 2 (left slot). Figure 7. Stropping/Polishing in Stage 3.

traditional Japanese knives and the detailed structure of the cutting edges likewise vary

widely from one manufacturer to the next, however there are some similarities. The

cutting edge consists of a small primary facet on the front face of the blade below the large

bevel and a much smaller secondary microfacet along the back face. Commonly the back

side microfacet (Figure 10d) can be easily seen only with a hand magnifier. The back face

is ground flat at the factory or more commonly it is slightly hollow ground to ensure that

an effective microfacet can be formed there as part of the cutting edge. Because of the

lack of standardization, the manual approach used to sharpen these knives in Asia has

proven difficult, laborious and time consuming. The Chef’sChoice®Model15 Sharpener is

designed to sharpen all traditional Asian blades and to create a factory-quality edge.

Before you start to sharpen a traditional blade, examine it carefully in order to confirm that you

have the traditional single bevel blade and to determine whether you have a right or left

handed type as described on page 10 and 11, Figure 10c. It is essential that you follow

carefully the sharpening procedure and sequence as described below in order to achieve the

optimum edge on your traditional blade.

Again confirm which side of the blade has the large factory Bevel A. old the blade in your

hand (as when you are cutting) and if the large factory bevel is on the right side of the blade,

the blade is right handed. For the right handed blades start sharpening in the left slot of

Stage 2 so that only the beveled side (right side) of the edge will contact the honing wheel.

S EP 1

S AR HONING RADI IONAL JAPANESE KNIVES IN S AGE 2

(RIGH HANDED BLADES)

In this example which assumes your traditional blade is right handed, you must hone only in

the left slot of Stage 2 (see Figure 8). The number of pulls that you need to make depends on

the factory angle of Bevel A (Figure 10c and 10d) and how dull your blade may be.

Make five (5) to ten (10) pulls in only the left slot of Stage 2 and then check for a burr

along the back side of the blade edge. (The burr created in Stage 2 will be small but

Figure 8. Honing a right-handed traditional Japanese

knife in Stage 2.

Figure 9. Stropping/Polishing a traditional Japanese

knife in Stage 3.

easily felt as shown in Figure 5. Make certain the burr is present along the entire length

of the edge. If there is no burr or only a partial burr, continue to make additional pulls all

in the left slot about five (5) at a time and check for a burr after each group of five (5)

pulls. In general 20-30 total pulls in the left slot will be adequate to raise a burr; it is

unlikely to take more than 50 left slot pulls to create the burr. When a burr is confirmed,

proceed to Step 2.

S EP 2

S ROPPING/POLISHING HE FINAL

EDGE ON RADI IONAL JAPANESE BLADE IN S AGE 3

(RIGH HANDED BLADE)

a. Make five (5) regular pulls 3-4 seconds each only in the left slot of Stage 3 (Figure 9) and

then proceed to remove any burr as follows:

b. Make one (1) regular pull in right slot of Stage 3 along the back side of the edge.

c. Make several fast pulls (one [1] second each) in the left slot of Stage 3.

d. Make one (1) fast pull in the right slot of Stage 3.

Check the blade carefully for sharpness using a thin sheet of paper. The blade should be

razor sharp. If not razor sharp repeat 3c and 3d above and retest the blade for sharpness.

NOTE: If your traditio al blade is excessively wor or if the edge is chipped a d irregular

you ca use the left slot of Stage 1 to reco ditio the edge. Use the left slot o ly (for right

ha ded blades). Make as ma y pulls as ecessary to reestablish a smooth u iform edge

li e. Use a black felt pe to mark facet a d follow progress of sharpe i g alo g the edge

u til edge li e is restored. The proceed i Stage 2 a d 3 as described o page 8 a d this

same page above.

RESHARPENING HE RADI IONAL JAPANESE BLADE (RIGH HANDED)

In general you will be able to resharpen quickly by following the sequence a thru d of Step

2 in the preceeding section. Repeat this if necessary to obtain a razor sharp edge. When

resharpening only in Stage 3 fails to develop a sharp edge or if the edge has been substan-

tially dulled you will need to re-hone the edge in Stage 2. Use only the left slot of Stage 2.

Generally you will find that about five (5) re-honing pulls will be sufficient in Stage 2. In any

event develop a burr before moving back to Stage 3. Finish the edge in Stage 3 following

Step 3a, b, c, d.

SHARPENING LEF HANDED RADI IONAL BLADES

The procedure you must use with left handed blades is similar to that procedure for right

handed blades as detailed above – Except, in all cases the slots you must use are reversed.

Where the sharpening procedure for right handed blades calls for use of just the left slot,

you must use only the right slot when sharpening a left-handed blade. Likewise use the

left slot where the right handed instructions call for using the right slot.

DESCRIP ION OF EURO/AMERICAN AND ASIAN BLADES

In general you will find that Euro/American blades shown in Figure 10a are sturdier

than the more delicate and thinner contemporary Asian blades. The variation among com-

mercially available knives of any type is great and in

fact some Euro/American blades are very thin and

certain Asian knives have a thicker cross-section

designed for heavier work.

1. EUROPEAN/AMERICAN BLADES

While most of the Euro/American knives (shown on the right),

Figure 10a have a thick cross-section designed for heavier

work, the range of blade thickness in these familiar blades is

great and certain of these knives, such as the conventional

paring, fillet and utility blades, have a relatively thin cross-sec-

tion well suited to their intended application. Euro-

pean/American straight edge blades are universally double

beveled (sharpened on both sides of the blade.)

2. CON EMPORARY ASIAN KNIVES

The more popular Asian blades; the thin, light weight Santoku

and Nakiri for example are generally double faceted (sharpened

on both faces of the blade) as shown in Figure 10b. Occasionally

Santoku knives are sold with single facets (Figure 10c below)

but these are not readily available in the United States.

There are other but somewhat heavier double-faceted Asian

knives, the Deba and Gyutou, popular in Asia, which are used

for chopping hard vegetables, for tailing and filleting fish and for

meats. These are basically Asian chefs knives designed for

heavier duty work.The Chinese cleaver is included in this class.

3. RADI IONAL JAPANESE KNIVES

The traditional Japanese knife is single beveled and has a wide

factory bevel A along one face of the blade above a small edge

facet. These are sold as either right handed or left handed

versions as shown in Figure 10c.The large wide factory bevel A

is ground, commonly at about 10 degrees. The most popular

example of this type blade is the sashimi knife also known as

Yanagi and Takohiki, designed as shown to the right. This

lengthy, slicing blade is ideal for preparing very thin slices of

raw tuna or salmon. The back side of this blade is commonly

slightly hollow ground. A small single cutting edge facet of

Thickness

(approx. 0.5mm)

double faceted

Each facet

about 20°

Figure 10a. European/American blade.

Thickness

(approx. 0.25mm)

double faceted

Thickness

(approx. 0.1-0.2mm)

Back

Side

Left handed Right handed

Factory

Bevel A

Commonly

small

10 to 11°

Factory

Bevel A

Commonly

small

10 to 11°

Front face

Each facet

about 15°

Sharpened

edge facet

about 15°

Figure 10b. Double faceted contemporary

Asian blades.

Figure 10c. Single beveled traditional

Asian blades.

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