Duerkopp Adler 744-122 Bedienungsanleitung

Contents Page

Preface and General Safety Notes

Part 1: Operating Instructions Cl. 744-122

1. Product Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

1.1 Summary and Intended Use . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

1.2 Technical Specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

1.3 Optional Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

2. Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

2.1 Replacing the Material Guide Rail by Primary Seams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

2.2 Attaching the Material Stopper by Primary Seams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

2.3 Setting the Seam Interval by Primary Seams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

2.4 Needles-Yarn-Thread Tensions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

2.5 Inserting the Material and Starting the Sewing Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

2.6 Thread Monitor for Needle and Bobbin Thread . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

2.7 Build-on Stacker by Primary Seams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

1. Product Description

1.1_ Summary and Intended Use

The 744-122 sewing unit is for sewing

pre-determined, straight or curved seams.A rail

appropriate to the seam configuration holds and

guides the material.

The material transport is conducted by a step

motor. The sewing unit has electro-pneumatic

controls.

The Microcontrol control units have the integrated

"Multitest" testing and monitoring system. Along

with monitoring the sewing process this allows a

quick checking of the input and output elements.

Possible operating errors and malfunctions are

shown in the display.

Depending on the program, the control of the

sewing unit can occur via photocell or distance

measurement.

Along with continuous seams from seam beginning

to seam end the following additional functions can

be selected with the control unit:

– Slit at the beginning of the material

– Slit at the end of the material

– Slit at the beginning and at the end of the

material

– Seam interruption or partial stitch condensing

– Seam interruption with slit at the beginning and

at the end of the material

– Security at the seam end through chain

stitching or stitch condensing

Through equipment with the appropriate parts sets,

the sewing unit can be used for the following work

procedures:

1. Primary seams: Work procedure A,

e.g. rear sleeve seam, mid-back seam, front

sleeve seam, side piece seam-overcoat, front

sleeve seam with outer material-lining in one

step etc.

2. Sewing waistbands on trousers: work

procedure D

3. Sewing waistbands on skirts: Work procedure E

The selector switch on the back of the control unit

front panel must have a setting appropriate to the

work procedures.

The setting normally occurs at the factory.

Which selector switch setting should be chosen for

which work procedure can be found in the

Microcontrol controls summary in the annex to

these instructions.

Please direct further enquiries concerning work

procedures/applications to

or its offices.

1.2 Technical Specification

Nominal voltage: Standard machine

3x380-400V+N, 50 Hz

The nominal voltage (operating voltage) for which

the sewing unit was set up is shown on the plate

attached to the spar at the front left under the table

top.

For operation with other mains voltages the

information contained in the enclosed connection

diagram 9870 744001 B must be strictly adhered to

and the necessary connection changes made.

Depending on the mains voltage and cycle the

necessary modification parts, e.g.pulley, V-belt,

protection switch insert,etc. are available under the

following order no.s:

3x380-400V+N 50 Hz - 744 100121

3x220-230V 50 Hz - 744 100122

3x220-230V 60 Hz - 744 100123

3x415V+N, 50 Hz - 744 100124

Machine Head

– One needle-dual chain stitch Stitch type 401

– Class 935-933-200

– with controlled thread trimmer on the base plate

– Number of stitches: adjustable between

3800-5400 stitches/min.

– Stitch length: adjustable for 2,1 mm,

2,5 mm, 3,0 mm or 3,6 mm

– Stitch length by stitch condensing: 2,0 mm,

1,5 mm or off

– Needle system: 934 SIN

Sewing Lengths

Depending on the equipment, the maximum sewing

length can be either 1000 mm or 1250 mm.

Appropriate transport drive parts and material

guide rails make possible a quick conversion.

Material Guide Rail

The left, right and wait positions can be selected

with the control unit. The wait position keeps the

feed area clear.

The return speed of the material guide rail can be

reduced through a coding. It is dependent on the

form of the material guide rail.

The rail clearance stroke is 30 mm.

Compressed Air :

Operating pressure: 6 bar

Air consumption: approx.9 NL per operating cycle

Vacuum:

The sewing unit is prepared for connection to an

in-house vacuum facility. If this is not available then

a rotary blower must also be ordered.

For 3 x 380-400V+N, 50 Hz - Order no.722 3031K

For 3 x 415V+N, 50 Hz _- Order no.722 3032K

For 3 x 220-230V, 50 Hz - Order no.722 3033K

For 3 x 220-230V, 60 Hz - Order no.722 3034K

For 3 x 220V, 50 Hz - Order no.722 3035K

Dimensions:Width: 3600 mm (2100 mm)

Depth: 1000 mm (1000 mm)

Height: 1500 mm to top of

_ control unit (1400 mm)

( ) = Shipping dimensions

The sewing unit (work level) is height adjustable

from 920-1140 mm for standing operation.

1.3 Optional Equipment

Order no.

794 7451 Side table

935 - - - - Edge cutter and chain trimmer

935 20607 Throat plate with stitch hole 1,5x5 mm

935 20608 Throat plate with stitch hole 1,8x5 mm

2. Operation

Turn main switch off!

- Risk of Injury -

– when threading

– when replacing sewing tools e.g.needle

– when cleaning

– when leaving the work place unattended

– by maintenance work

2.1 Replacing the material guide rail by

primary seams

Turn main switch off!

- Risk of Injury! -

Removing

– Place valve lever 1 in the down position.

– Lift the guide piston 2 with its two rollers 9 and

8 out of the rail 3.

– Pull the rail 3 out of the needle area from the

front.

– Release the left and right clamp lever 7.

– Remove the rail after lifting the clamp piston 6

and place in the mounting at the left on the

covering hood.

Inserting

– The insertion of the rail is conducted in the

reverse order.

– When tightening the clamp lever 7 care should

be taken to see that the pin 5 of the clamp

piston 6 snap into the hole 4 of the rail.

– The roller 8 of the guide piston and the roller_9

for the thread trimmer must be lowered into the

groove on the rail. Place the valve lever 1 up

again.Otherwise the display *Schiene* will

appear. - A starting of the sewing unit is then

not possible.

9 8

2.2 Attaching the material stopper by

primary seams

Turn main switch off!

- Risk of Injury -

– The contours of the material stopper and the

material guide rail must agree in the transport

carriage’s right hand position.

– Turn the star grip 7 back several turns.

– Slide the holder plate 5 under the star grip 7 in

such a manner that its cutout is exactly seated

on the collar bolt and the hole locks above the

location peg 6.

– Screw the star grip 7 tight.

– When equipped with material holder 1 on the

material stopper its compressed air hose

should be plugged into the pneumatic socket 3.

– The coding plug_2_is always to be plugged into

the socket 8_.

It contains the coding for the allowable rail

return speed.

2.3 Setting the seam interval by pri-

mary seams

The uniform gap between material guide rail and

material stopper, that is, the planned seam interval,

is to be set after loosening the screws 4.

2 3

7 6 5

2.4 Needles - Yarns - Thread tension

Needles

System 934 SIN needles are to be used.

(SIN = slightly rounded point)

Recommended needle thickness:

Nm 80

Nm 90 for thin material

Nm 100 for medium material

Nm 110

Nm 120 for thick material

Throat plates with wider stitch holes are to be used

for needle thicknesses above Nm 100. See Section

1.3 Optional Equipment.

Turn main switch off!

- Risk of Injury -

When inserting the needle care is to be taken that

the hollow neck of the needle points to the left

when seen from the operating side of the sewing

unit.

Yarns

High sewing security and good sewability are

achieved with covering yarns, especially

a) with dual polyester endless - polyester covered,

e.g.Epic Poly Poly, Rasant x, Saba C and

others;

b) with dual polyester endless - cotton covered,

e.g.Frikka, Koban, Rasant and others.

As yarn thickness dependent on the needle

thickness we recommend:

Needle thicknessCovering yarn

Nm polyester-endless

90 120 (Nm 80/2)

100 100 (Nm 65/2)

110 75 (Nm 50/2)

Concerning the threading of the needle and bobbin

threads see the enclosed operating card.

Thread tension

The tension of the needle thread must be greater

than that of the bobbin thread. The bobbin thread

tension is therefore equipped with a spring of

thinner wire.

Too high thread tensions cause the material being

sewn to pucker.

A too low bobbin thread tension can cause faulty

stitches.

For drawing the threads for trimming or by seam

interruptions the needle thread tension is released

pneumatically.

2.5 Inserting the material and starting

the sewing unit

The sewing unit is equipped at the factory for a

specific work procedure, e.g. for primary seams, for

sewing waistbands on trousers or for sewing

waistbands on skirts.

For each of these work procedures there are

multiple insertion methods with variing switching

stages for feeding, suction and starting available.

For the choice of insertion methods for each work

procedure and type of handling see Section 4.5 of

the Microcontrol summary in the manual annex.

Switching on the feed procedure occurs via the "E"

key of the control unit.Then an activation through

the STOP key is necessary.

2.6 Thread monitor for needle and bob-

bin thread

The threads are monitored by proximity switches.

The needle thread by the b15 switch in conjunction

with the metal eye on the arm head.

The metal eye and switch b14 for the bobbin thread

are immediately in front of the hook.

By needle thread breakage the display shows -X-

By bobbin thread breakage the display shows -XX-

The sewing unit cannot be re-started.

When threading:

Turn main switch off!

- Risk of Injury -

2.7 Build-on stacker by primary seams

In order that the pieces sewn can be stacked

centered on the stacker 1 according to their length,

a clamp-on moment in advance of the pull-out

moment can be selected.

(For this the b417.5 selector switch on the back of

the control unit front panel must be in the "open"

position.)

To choosing the clamp-on moment see the

operating card 744-122.

The stacker can be opened pneumatically via

pedal for removing the stacked pieces sewn.

b15

b14

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