FuzzDog Ultimatum Fuzz Bedienungsanleitung

Ultimatum Fuzz

The Ultimate experience in

vintage-style octave-up fuzz

No reproduction permitted without the express written

Schematic + BOM

R1 1M

R2 1

R3 47

R4 47

R5 100

R6 100

R7 4 7

R8 100

R9 4 7

R10 100

R11 100

R12 220R

R13 CLR (2 2)

R14 CLR (2 2)

R15 15

R16 150

R17 10

R18 1

R19 22

R20 4 7

R21 470

R22 47

R23 1 5

R24 10

R25 100

C1 47n

C2 47n

C3 1n

C4 10u elec

C5 10u elec

C6 10u elec

C7 10u elec

C8 10u elec

C9 10u elec

C10 15n

C11 100n

C12 10u elec

C13 10u elec

C14 100u elec

C15 10p

C16 1n

D12 1N34A

D34 LED

D56 1N34A

D7 1N4001

Q14 2N3904

TONE 100 B

VOL 100 B

SUST 100 B

SW1 DPDT

Be very careful when soldering the diodes, LEDs and transistors. They’re very sensitive to heat. You

should use some kind of heat sink (crocodile clip or reverse action tweezers) on each leg as you

solder them. eep exposure to heat to a minimum (under 2 seconds).

The long leg (anode) of the electrolytic capacitors go into the square pads. The striped leg (cathode)

of the diodes goes into the square pads. C14 should be placed flat to the board as seen on the

cover image. This gives lots of clearance when mounting into the enclosure.

Snap the small metal tag off the pots so they can be mounted flush in the box.

Pots and switches mount on the back side of the board. Red line in the image above shows the

direction of the switch tags. If you’re using board-mounted pots you’ll have to place these last as

they’ll restrict your access to the pads for the other components.

Pots and toggle switch mount on the back side of the board. You can use vertical-mount pots or

just wire up ‘normal’ ones. It’s a good idea to place the pots in their holes in the enclosure when

you’re soldering them in place on the PCB. That way you know they’re going to line up ok. Best way

to do it is to solder a single pin of each pot in place, then do a visual check to see that they’re all

sitting at the same height. If not, melt the joints and readjust any that are off.

The back of your board should be looking lovely, just like this (except you haven’t attached the

ribbon cable yet - just imagine it isn’t there).

You’re ready to get the footswitch daughterboard set up. Let’s go...

When mounting the footswitches it’s a good idea to do it using the enclosure. Drop the footswitches

into their holes in the enclosure, but on the top face on the box (as above). Now place your

daughterboard onto the switches and get them nice and straight. Solder a single tag of each

footswitch into place, then take them out of the enclosure and check the positioning. You want the

tags as horizontal as possible for the best fit, and the switches should be flat against the PCB. If

they’re at all wonky, melt the solder joint and adjust. Once they’re looking good and you’re sure they

still sit in the enclosure holes ok, get the other tags soldered in too. Don’t forget to solder in the

current limiting resistors for your LEDs, but leave the LEDs out for now.

Now you need to join the two boards together. You have a nice 6-way ribbon cable, right? If not, just

run six lengths of wire between the two boards. The pads are clearly marked, just join like for like.

Now attach some decent lengths of wire to the rest of the offboard pads - your V and G connections

at the top of the board, and your jack connections on the daughterboard. Ignore those LEDS again -

they aren’t really there...

Now we take a break from the norm. Usually you’d do some testing before boxing up your circuit. In

this case there are only six connections to make offboard, and they’re the same connections you’d

have to make to test the circuit as to actually complete it, so let’s go ahead and make them neat.

NOW we get to place those LEDs too. Pull the LEDs through the board (long leg to round pad), and

bend the legs slightly so they don’t fall out. Get your jacks and DC socket in place and tightened.

Now drop your two circuit boards into place and tighten things up. Connect your jack and DC wires

(there’s a diagram on the next page if it needs to be clearer than the pic below). Of course, your DC

socket will be on the correct side of the enclosure. Oops!

You can now get your LEDs in place. Unbend the legs and push them down to locate into their

holes in the enclosure. Once seated, solder them in. Simple! No need for bezels.

WHY IS THERE AN EXTRA PAD FOR THE ‘OCTAVE’ FOOTSWITCH LED...?

You can use a bi-colour LED in there if you want, i.e. green for normal, red for octave.

Use a common-anode LED. We like to keep it simple around here though, so a standard LED is supplied.

Wiring

IN OUT

Couldn’t be much simpler. Six wires to connect as above.

This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be Tip Negative / Sleeve Positive.

That’s the same as your standard pedals (Boss etc), and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to

this pedal.

Drilling template

Hammond 1590BB

91 x 116 x 30mm

(top face dimensions, not including lid)

Recommended drill sizes:

Pots 7mm

Jacks 10mm

Footswitch 12mm

DC Socket 12mm

Toggle Switch 6mm

This template is a rough guide only. You should ensure correct marking of your

enclosure before drilling. You use this template at your own risk.

Pedal Parts Ltd can accept no responsibility for incorrect drilling of enclosures.

PedalParts.co.uk

30mm

19mm

It’s a good idea to drill the holes for the pots and toggle

1mm larger to give

yourself some

wiggle room

unless you’re a

drill ninja

60mm

14mm

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