FuzzDog Klone V4 Bedienungsanleitung

Klone V4

Ultimate box of

transparent overdrive

No reproduction permitted without the express written

Important notes

If you’re using any of our footswitch daughterboards,

DOWNLOAD THE DAUGHTE BOA D DOCUMENT

•Download and read the appropriate build document for the daughterboard

as well as this one BEF RE you start.

•D N T solder the supplied Current Limiting Resistor (CLR) to the main

circuit board even if there is a place for it. This should be soldered to the

footswitch daughterboard.

POWE SUPPLY

Unless otherwise stated in this document this circuit is designed to be

powered with 9V DC.

COMPONENT SPECS

Unless otherwise stated in this document:

•Resistors should be 0.25W. You can use those with higher ratings but

check the physical size of them.

•Electrolytics caps should be at least 25V for 9V circuits, 35V for 18V

circuits. Again, check physical size if using higher ratings.

LAYOUT CONVENTIONS

Unless otherwise stated in this document, the following are used:

•Electrolytic capacitors:

Long leg (anode) to square pad.

•Diodes/LEDs:

Striped leg (cathode) to square pad. Short leg to square pad for LEDs.

•ICs:

Square pad indicates pin 1.

Schematic

B M

R1 10K

R2 2M

R3 5K1

R4 1K5

R5 1K

R6 10K

R7 1K5

R8 15K

R9 47R (2K)

R10 15K

R11 422K (420K IS FINE)

R12 1K

R13 47K

R14 22K

R15 10K (27K)

R16 4K7 (12K)

R17 392K (390K IS FINE)

R18 4K7 (1K8)

R19 100K

R20 100K

R21 1K8 (4K7)

R22 560R

R24 100K

R26 560R

R27 100K

R28 2K2**

R29 27K

R30 27K

R31 2M

D12 D9E*

D3 LED

D45 1N4001

D6 12V zener

rated min 1W

IC12 TL072

IC3 7660S*

V L 10KA (10KB)

T NE 10KB

GAIN 100KB

DUAL GANG

C1 100n

C2 68n*

C3 390n (330n IS FINE)

C4 100n

C5 68n

C6 82n*

C7 1u tant

C8 390p

C9 1u elec

C10 1u elec

C11 2n2

C12 27n

C13 560p (820p)

C14 3n9*

C15 4u7 elec

C16 4u7 elec

C17 47u elec

C18 1u elec

C19 1u elec

C20 47u elec

C21 1u elec

C22 1u elec

B M is for Silver Pony version.

Gold version values shown in blue.

If using a 7660 for IC3 you need one with an

S suffix. This ensures it will operate at a

frequency high enough to be inaudible.

*There are a few value substitutions we

recommend - see next page for details.

**R28 is the current limiter for the LED. This

is now located on the footswitch

daughterboard and is marked ‘CLR’.

The Buffered/True-Bypass selection is

designed for a 2.54mm-pitch miniature slide

switch.

If you prefer to hardwire one way or the other,

wire in jumpers as shown above. Red for True

Bypass, blue for Buffered.

Anode (+) leg of electrolytic caps go into the

square pad.

Cathode (-) leg of diodes and the LED go into

the square pads.

Snap the little metal tag off the pots to mount

them flush in the box.

You should use some kind of heat sink on the

legs of the diodes when soldering. They aren’t

keen on heat. Any more than 3-4 seconds of

iron and they’re toast. Use sockets for the ICs

or be extra careful with them too.

Footswitch lugs should be horizontal and

inndicated above.

The current limiting resistor for the LED goes

into the spot marked ‘CLR’ on the

daughterboard. We supply 2K2.

Be VERY careful when bending the legs of the

germanium diodes. The glass case is very

fragile and likely to break. Hold the leg with

some needle-nosed pliers against the case,

and bend the leg with your finger so the

pliers are taking any strain away from it.

To give yourself more clearance when

mounting the circuit into your enclosure,

C17 and C20 can be bent over the adjacent

components as shown in the cover image.

Connect the two PCBs together using pads

1 2 V G 3 4

Your jacks connect to G / IN and G / UT on

the daughterboad.

DC connections are G and V pads next to

‘TRUE’.

PART SUBSTITUTI NS

The circuit benefits from some extra bass in

both the gain and clean sections:

C2 100n (clean)

C6 120 - 150n (gain)

The Tone (Treble) control has a more useful

range if you increase C14 to 6n8 or 8n2.

Footswitch lugs should be horizontal

The best way to get the pots lined up

is to first solder one pin of each.

nce they’re tacked in place adjust

them so they’re straight and check to

see if the heights line up. If not, melt

that soldered joint and adjust. nce

you’re happy all the pots are aligned

you can solder in the other legs.

Make sure you don’t push the pot

pins all the way into the PCB.

There’s not a lot of clearance

on the bottom of the dual gang,

so it has to sit a little way up

from the PCB.

Keep it simple...

No charge...

You can eliminate the charge pump if you

prefer. It’s only in there to give IC2 more

headroom and avoid clipping. Is there any

need? The signal is already clipped by the

diodes anyway.

To leave this out and avoid any potential

whining issues associated with charge

pumps, do the following:

Leave out:

C18, C19, C21, C22

D4, D5

IC3

Place jumper wires in place of:

D4, D5, C19

No buffer...

If you prefer to keep things True Bypass and

you want to use your own daughterboard you

can get rid of the buffered bypass element.

Leave out:

24, 26, 27

C16

Take wires from the following pads to your

daughterboard or switch wiring.

2 - IN

3 - OUT

V - +Volts

G - Ground

Wire it up - switching board

Wire it up - true bypass

Wire it up - buffered bypass

Sorry, it’s not particularly elegant, but pad 1 from the

main board should connect directly to the footswitch lug

as shown. It should actually work fine without this wire,

but it follows the original in that it grounds the output of

the gain section on bypass.

What’s going on with those switches?

Here’s what’s connected to what...

Jack

OUT

GND

BUFFERED

TRUE BYPASS

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