FuzzDog FuzzPup Rodent Bedienungsanleitung

Rode t

A big, fat bitey Rat

in a shrew’s body

No reproduction permitted without the express written

FuzzPup

IMPORTANT

Before you start...

Grab the general build doc that covers all FuzzPup builds. Most of

the information you need for this build is in there.

Read it? OK, carry on.

FuzzPups

Lovely little boxes of joy with a

totally standardised build pattern

No reproduction permitted without the express written

Schematic

+ BOM

The PCB is designed to take 1/8W

(0.125W) resistors. You can use 1/4W if

you wish, but you’ll have to position them

upright. Make sure they’re bent enough

that you’ll have plenty of clearance in your

enclosure. But really, get some 1/8W.

To save space on the PCB we’ve not

included a separate spot for R4. If you

aren’t using the Ruez mod trimmer you

must place R4 as shown later in this

document.

NOTE: C12 is for power filtering and goes

on the underside of the PCB. Be careful

not to place this right against the board or

you’ll short out the pads around it. You

can only add this cap if you’re having your

DC socket on the top edge of the

enclosure, otherwise it’ll get in the way.

It’s not entirely necessary, so feel free to

leave it out if you really want a side-

mounted DC socket.

*Use R4 or 1KB Trimmer. See next page

for placement.

**Standard Rat clipping.

Replace with 3mm Red LEDs for Turbo,

1N34A for You Dirty.

R1 1M

R2 1K

R3 560R

R4 47R*

R5 1K

R6 1K5

R7 1M

R8 10K

R9 47R

R10 10K

R11 10K

R12 1M

Q1 2N5458

IC LM308N

or OP07

C1 22n

C2 1n

C3 100p

C4 33p

C5 4u7 elec

C6 2u2 elec

C7 4u7 elec

C8 3n3

C9 22n

C10 1u elec

C11 100u elec

C12 47u elec

C13 47n

FILT 100KA

DIST 100KA

VOL 100KA

RUEZ 1KB trim*

D1 1N4001

D2,3 1N4148**

Unlike most of our FuzzPup PCBs the Rat doesn’t have pads for the jack

connections. You have to use to daughterboard for those. It’s also a little wider at

30mm, so there’s not so much room for wire access once it’s built.

If you are ’t addi g the Ruez respo se mod trimmer, place R4 as show above.

Wire up your pots

If you’re using the pot daughterboard you need to allow some slack in the wires

attaching it to the main PCB. About an inch is a good length. We recommend

wiring on the top side of the main PCB rather than underneath as it’s easier to

guide the wires on final assembly, and they’re less likely to get snagged up under

the boards.

If you have the means to strip ribbon cable

this can make a really neat finish rather

than individual wires.

The followi g pages show the FuzzPup BigFluff

bei g assembled. The process is ide tical .

Assembly #1

This is where the *fun* starts. As this PCB is slightly different to our normal

FuzzPup range in not having jack connections and being a bit wider, you need to

take a little more care with assembly.

Get your hardware in place in the enclosure and wire it up, leaving plenty of slack

where it’ll join the daughterboard. Once you start soldering that it can get very

awkward if your wires are too short.

Run the wires under the jacks. You don’t want them getting in the way when you

place the main PCB.

Assembly #2

Now attach the wires to the daughterboard. Don’t forget your current limiting

resistor. Push the LED into its pads in the board and bend the legs out slightly to

keep in in place. You’ll push this through into final position once the board is

soldered to the footswitch.

If you have a top-edge DC socket don’t bother with the power GND and 9V wires on

the daughtboard. These will attach to the main PCB.

Assembly #3

Now for the fiddly bit.

Put your pots into position. No need to tighten them up yet, but no harm if you do.

Locate the header pins on the main PCB into the CI, V, G, CO pads on the

daughterboard and bring both boards down into the enclosure. Keep an eye on the

wiring and make sure nothing is snagging, and that your ack Out wire won’t

interfere with the LED.

Locate the daughterboard onto the switch lugs, ensuring your main PCB clears the

edge of the switch. Hopefully you’ve read the main FuzzPup document and have

soldered the header pins at an angle to make this easier.

Now everything should just relax down into position. Once you’re happy with where

the boards are you can solder the headers and footswitch into place.

Once that’s all done you can push your LED down into its hole and finish up.

...a d BOOM!

Hopefully not literally.

One fully assembled mini Rat.

If you have a top-mounted DC socket get it in there and wire it up with the V and G

pads in the top corners of the main PCB.

Enjoy!

FuzzDog.co.uk

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