Micron Wings SkyFox Bedienungsanleitung

Your kit contains the following items

Pre- cut parts

Propeller rigging and rubber

Sandpaper

Covering sheet

The SkyFox offers great glide performance in a

rubber powered plane due to its built up wing.

With a simple body section and tailplane, this

plane can be built relatively simply.

It also features a unique covering techniques

where the film is supplied as a tube. Virtually no

gluing is required as the film is heated and shrinks

to for a firm fit around the wing.

This plane is a great project for the beginner to

intermediate builder.

Additional Items You May Need

* Foam safe glue

* Wood Glue

* Masking Tape

* Cling Wrap

* Hobby Knife

* Pliers

Refer to these pages as you follow this manual. When you see a part written in bold in the build instructions below,

refer back to these pages to see which part it is. Leave the parts in the sheets until they are needed.

Main Body Former

Wings Main Spars

Wings Leading

Edge Spars

Wings Trailing

Edge Spars

Ribs

Wing Main Spar Joiners

Wing Mounts

Wing Mount Boxing

Wing Tips Capping

Centre Rib

Wing Tip Cornices

Tailplane

Vertical Stabiliser

Wing Boxing

Sheets

Tailplane Mount

Rubber Hook

Propeller Assembly

Propeller

Rubber

Rubber bands

Wing Mount Pegs

Wing Brace

Getting Started

For best results you will need a flat surface to work on.

It’s preferable to have a flat piece of corkboard or

sheet of Depron foam so you will be able to pin parts

down if needed.

(image for illustration purpose only –no plans supplied with this kit)

It’s a good idea to put a layer of cling wrap over the

work surface. It’s easier to get your wing frame parts

unstuck from the cling wrap than from other materials.

Tape the cling wrap sheet to the work surface ensuring

it is completely flat and free from wrinkles.

The Wing Sections

Lay the Wing Main Spar on the work surface and

glue in place the 2 Ribs in the slots furthermost

toward each end. Ensure these are level and the

Wing Main Spar is vertical and allow it to dry. Make

sure the ribs form a 90 degree angle with the Wing

Main Spar. Alternate to the other wing and do the

same.

Note: Check that the rib direction on each wing is

correct so you are making one left wing and one right

wing.

Once the first two ribs have dried, continue to glue all

the other ribs in place making sure they are also level

and parallel to each other.

When gluing in he leading and trailing edges, press

them down from the top to slot in the ribs.

Glue in place the Wings Leading Edge Spar ensuring

that the end with the notch in it is attached to the

outermost rib. Allow to dry before continuing.

Glue in place the Wings Trailing Edge Spar in the

same way as above and allow to dry before continuing.

Glue in place the Wing Tips Capping pieces with the

thicker end toward the leading edge of the wings.

Glue in place the Wing Main Spar Joiners on

either side of one of the wing’s main spars.

Ensure the top and bottom of the joiner pieces is

flush with the top and bottom of the Wing Main

Spar.

Sand the Wings Leading Edge Spar and the Wings

Trailing Edge Spar at a slight angle so they fit flush

together.

Slide in the other Wing’s Main Spar and check

that the trailing edge strips and leading edge

strips from each wing meet flush in the middle.

Finally, glue in place the other wing at the Wing

Main Spar Joiner location. Ensure the Wing Main

Spar Joiners are flush with the top and bottom of the

Wing Main Spar.

Once The joint is dried, glue the leading and trailing edge

spars together. Use some masking tape to keep them

lined up while the glue dries.

Glue in the Centre Rib forward and aft pieces. This goes

directly on the centre line of the Wing Main Spar

Joiners. Ensure it is vertical and in line top and

bottom with the V in the joiners.

Then glue in place the Wing Tip Cornice pieces. These

are glued in the trailing edge corner of the wing tips.

Glue in place the Wing Boxing pieces which cover

the top of the wings.

Sand the Wing Boxing pieces to smooth and round off

the leading and trailing edges.

The wing covering sheet is made from heat shrinkable

plastic. Cut the sleeve in half to make 2 sleeves. Next

slide one sleeve over one of the wings. Glue it to the

wood at the wing root using a foam safe glue. Make sure

you leave the excess film protruding from the end of the

wing. When you heat this film to shrink it the part left

over on the end will shrink down leaving a small amount

to be trimmed off later.

Use a hair dryer to gently and evenly heat the covering all

over. Start with the hair dryer about 30cm away and

move closer as needed to allow the covering to shrink.

Work a little on one side and then turn over and work on

the other side alternating to tighten both sides

simultaneously. The finished product should look like this.

After shrinking and trimming the film, use foam safe glue

to attach the end pieces to the Wing Tips Capping.

Foam safe glue is used because of it’s tackiness which

helps it adhere to the film. We recommend using UHU

Expanded Polystyrene glue. As an alternative you could

use a craft glue stick. Pull the film tight (but not over

tight) and allow it to dry.

Next start work on the fuselage.

Measure back 110mm from the front of the Main Body

Former and glue in place the Wing Mounts on

either side.

110mm

Then glue in the Wing Mount Pegs and Wing

Brace.

Finally, glue in place the Wing Mount Boxing pieces

for and aft.

Propeller Assembly

Take the pin and feed it through the Propeller

Assembly as shown.

Put the propeller on so the rounded part of the hub

is toward the back (touching the Propeller

Assembly).

Use some fine tipped pliers to bend the end of the

shaft over as shown.

Attach the Propeller Assembly to the front of the

Main Body Former. Gluing is optional.

Attach the Rubber Hook to the aft end of the Main

Body Former leaving about 1cm of the former protruding.

It should be a very firm fit, however, you may glue it in

place if needed.

Push on the Tailplane Mount to the aft end of the Main

Body Former.

Glue the vertical stabiliser in place on the tailplane.

Use something square to keep it upright while

drying.

Use some sandpaper to scruff up the top surface of

the Tailplane Mount to allow the glue to bond easily to it.

Use foam safe glue such as UHU Por Expanded

Polystyrene to attach the tailplane to the Tailplane

Mount. Foam glue us used because unlike wood

glue, the foam glue dries tacky and gives the best

adhesion to the plastic.

Loop the rubber back and forth around the Prop Hook

and the Rubber Hook. The two ends can be tied in a

knot.

Try to adjust the length so the rubber loom doesn’t hang

down more than this.

A piece of cardboard this shape can be cut from a flat

sheet and taped to the edge of a table to be used as

a balance point test station.

Rubber bands are attached in an X pattern to the

pegs.

The point of Balance should be 28mm from the

leading edge of the wing.

You may need to remove the tailplane and trim one

centimetre at a time off the main body former to

achieve the correct balance point. However don’t trim

more than a few centimetres off. If needed add more

weight to the nose.

Balanced!

Test glide without winding up the rubber first. Further

adjustments can be made by further shortening the

main body former, or adding a shim under the leading

or trailing edge of the wing.

If needed these lines can be cut through with a hobby

knife and the tail surfaces wetted to make them

flexible so the elevators or rudder can be bent to the

desired position.

After test gliding, start to test fly with the propeller

wound up. Start with 1/3 knots and progress to ½ and

finally a full row of knots.

Double knotting is not recommended as it will

eventually lead to the rubber breaking.

Spare rubber can be purchased on

the MicronWings website.

See a test flight video on Youtube (Link)

This manual is for personal use only. No unauthorized copying or digital distributing permitted

without permission from MicronWings.

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