Tower Hobbies Tower Trainer 40 ARF Bedienungsanleitung

TABLE OF CONTENTS

DIE PATTERNS ...............................................................4&5

ITEMS REQUIRED FOR COMPLETION..............................6

GET READY TO BUILD.......................................................8

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES .............................................10

BUILD THE FUSELAGE .....................................................13

BUILD THE WING............................................................20

FINAL ASSEMBLY..............................................................32

FINISHING.......................................................................40

FINAL CONTROL HOOKUPS...........................................46

PREFLIGHT.......................................................................52

FLYING.............................................................................54

FOLLOW THIS IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTION TO

PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF & OTHERS.

Your Trainer 40 is not a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working

model that functions very much like an actual airplane. Because

of its realistic performance, the Trainer 40, if not assembled and

operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or

spectators and damage property.

To make your R/C modeling experience totally enjoyable, we

recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable help with

assembly and during your first flights. You’ll learn faster and

avoid risking your model before you’re truly ready to solo. Your

local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area

whose membership includes qualified instructors.

WARRANTY

Tower Hobbies guarantees this kit to be free from defects in

both materials and workmanship at the date of purchase. This

warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use

or modification. In no case shall Tower’s liability exceed the

original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Tower reserves the

right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In thatTower has no control over the final assembly or material

used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor

accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of

the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-

assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyers are not prepared to accept the liability

associated with the use of this product, they are advised to

return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to

Tower Hobbies.

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK BEFORE BEGINNING

CONSTRUCTION. THIS BOOKLET CONTAINS WARNINGS AND

PRECAUTIONS REGARDING THE USE OF THIS PRODUCT.

® ®

TTOOWWEERRTTRRAAIINNEERR4400

RADIO CONTROLLED MODEL AIRPLANE KIT

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

OUR ALL-TIME FAVORITE TRAINER...

NOW IN KIT FORM

TTR4P03 V 1.0

Wing Span: 55 in.

Wing Area: 618 sq. in. Weight: 5 to 5.5 lb.

Length: 44.5 in. Wing Loading: 18 to 21 oz./sq. ft.

Engine: .40 2-stroke

™

You can also contact the national Academy of ModelAeronautics

(AMA), which has more than 2,500 chartered clubs across the

country. Through any one of them, instructor training programs

and insured newcomer training are available.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

TEL: (800) 435-9262

FAX: (765) 741-0057

or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org

Thank you for purchasing the Tower Hobbies Trainer 40!

TheTower HobbiesTrainer 40 is an excellent trainer model designed

to get you off to a great start in learning to build and fly. After you

learn to fly, the Trainer 40 has enough maneuverability to perform

most aerobatics and provide many hours of flying enjoyment. The

easy construction, great lines and included decals make it easy for

you to build a great-looking model.

The Tower Trainer 40 is designed to fly as well as it looks. Its

thick, flat-bottom wing offers strong lift at slow speeds and great

strength. The computer designed, interlocking structure allows

you to build a straight and true model with confidence-boosting

flight qualities.

Please inspect all parts carefully before starting to build! If any

parts are missing, broken or defective, or if you have any

questions about building or flying this model, please call us at

(217) 398-8970 and we’ll be glad to help. If you are calling for

replacement parts, please look up the part numbers and the kit

identification number (a white sticker on the end of the carton)

and have them ready when calling. Our e-mail address is:

www[email protected]

PRECAUTIONS

1.You must build the plane according to the plan and instructions.

Do not alter or modify the model, as this may result in an unsafe

or unflyable model. In a few cases the plan and instructions may

differ slightly from the photos. In those instances you should

assume the plan and written instructions are correct.

2. You must take your time to build straight, true and strong.

3.You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first class condition,

the correct engine size and correct components (fuel tank,

wheels, etc.) throughout your building process.

4.You must properly install all R/C and other components so the

model operates properly on the ground and in the air.

5.You must test the operation of the model before the first flight

and each successive flight, to insure all equipment is

operating and to make sure the model has remained

structurally sound. Be sure to check external nylon clevises

often. Replace them if they show signs of wear.

6. You must fly the model only with the competent help of a

well-experienced R/C pilot, if you are not already an

experienced R/C pilot at this time.

Die Patterns

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality

kit and great instructions, but ultimately the quality and flyability

of your finished model will depend on how you build it; therefore,

we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your

completed model and no representations are expressed or implied

as to the performance or safety of your completed model.

Remember: Take your time and follow the directions to

complete a well-built model which is straight and true.

EARLY IN THE BUILDING SEQUENCE

Engine selection:

There are several engines that will work well in theTowerTrainer

40. The following engines will provide the best all-around flight

performance: O. S.®.40FX, Super Tigre®GS .40, Tower Hobbies

.40 or O. S. .52 Surpass (4-stroke). Your choice of a 2-stroke or

4-stroke engine will determine the location of the throttle servo

and pushrod exit.

Note:The displacement in bold type is the most highly recommended.

However, all of these engines will fly theTowerTrainer 40.

Selection of wheels

The standard recommended wheels are 2-1/2" for the main and

nose wheels. If you are flying off grass or an uneven surface, you

may wish to use larger wheels than those recommended. The

standard wheels have been tested on grass and work fine, but 3"

wheels would work even better.

“ITEMS REQUIRED FOR COMPLETION”

❍ 4 Channel radio with 4 servos

❍ Engine: .40 - .46 2-stroke or .52 4-stroke

❍ Propeller (Top Flite®Power Point®)

❍ 10 oz. Fuel tank (Great Planes®#GPMQ4104)

❍ 12" Medium fuel tubing (Great Planes #GPMQ4131)

❍ (3) 2-1/2" Wheels (Great Planes #GPMQ4223)

❍ (6) 5/32" Wheel collars (Great Planes #GPMQ4306)

❍ 2-1/2" Spinner (Great Planes #GPMQ4520)

❍ (2) Rolls covering film (TowerKote™)

❍ 1/2" Latex Foam Rubber Padding (Hobbico®# HCAQ1050)

❍ #64 Rubber Bands (Tower Hobbies #TOWQ1220)

❍ Throttle Pushrod (Great Planes #GPMQ3716)

❍ Steering Pushrod (Great Planes #GPMQ3700)

❍ Connector forThrottle (Great Planes #GPMQ3840)

❍ Engine Mount (Great Planes #GPMG1061)

❍ Hardware for engine mount (Great Planes #GPMQ3509)

❍ Screw-Lock connectors (Great Planes #GPMQ3870)

SUGGESTED SUPPLIES AND TOOLS

We recommend Great Planes Pro™CA and Tower Epoxy

❍ 2 oz. CA (Thin) (Great Planes #GPMR6003)

❍ 2 oz. CA+(Medium) (Great Planes #GPMR6009)

❍ 1 oz. CA- (Thick) (Great Planes #GPMR6014)

❍ CA Accelerator (Great Planes #GPMR6035)

❍ 6-Minute Epoxy (Tower Hobbies #TOWR3300)

Die Patterns

❍ 30-Minute Epoxy (Tower Hobbies #TOWR3350)

❍ ProWood glue (Great Planes #GPMR6160, optional)

❍ Hand or Electric Drill

❍ Drill Bits: 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 1/8", 5/32", 3/16", 1/4"

❍ Sealing Iron (Top Flite #TOWR3250)

❍ Heat Gun (Top Flite #TOWR3200)

❍ Hobby Saw (X-acto®Razor Saw)

❍ Hobby Knife, #11 Blades

❍ Razor Plane (Master Airscrew)

❍ Pliers

❍ Screw Drivers (Phillips and Slot tip)

❍ Round file (or similar)

❍ T-Pins

❍ String

❍ Straightedge with scale

❍ MaskingTape (required for construction)

❍ Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)*

❍ T-Bar Sanding Block (or similar)

❍ Wax paper or Plan Protector

❍ Lightweight Balsa Filler such as Hobbico HobbyLite™

❍ Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol (70%)

❍ Dremel Multi-Pro®or similar (optional)

*NOTE: On our workbench, we have four 11" T-Bar sanders,

equipped with #50, #80, #150 and #220-grit sandpaper. This

setup is all that is required for almost any sanding task. Custom

sanding blocks can be made from balsa for sanding hard-to-

reach spots. We also keep some #320-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper

handy for finish sanding before covering.

Common abbreviations used in this book and on the plan

Elev. = Elevator

Fuse = Fuselage

LE = Leading Edge (Front of a wing)

Ply = Plywood

Stab = Stabilizer

TE = Trailing edge (Rear of Wing)

" = Inches

Types of wood

BALSA BASSWOOD PLYWOOD

GET READY TO BUILD

• Unroll the plan sheets. Reroll the plans inside out to make

them lie flat. If you have a small building space, you may fold

or cut the plans to fit onto your building surface.

• Remove all parts from the box.As you do, figure out the name

of each part by comparing it with the plans and the parts list

included with this kit. Using a felt tip or ball point pen, lightly

write the part name or size on each piece to avoid confusion

later. Use the die-cut patterns shown on pages 4 and 5 to

identify the die-cut parts and mark them before removing

them from the sheet. Save all leftovers. If any of the die-cut

parts are difficult to punch out, do not force them! Instead, cut

around the parts with a hobby knife. After punching out the

die-cut parts, use your bar sander or sanding block to lightly

sand the edges to remove any die-cutting irregularities.

• As you identify and mark the parts, separate them into

groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin, Stab (Stabilizer),

and hardware.

NOTES ON USING GLUES

There are two types of glue recommended for building this

model, which are CA and Epoxy.

CA (cyanoacrylate) glue is used for general construction. It is

available in a variety of viscosities. We recommend you have the

following two types...

Thin CA: Has a viscosity similar to water and is used to glue

together parts fitting together very well and which do not require

repositioning after glue is applied.Thin CA is especially effective

for gluing balsa to balsa. It can be used to glue hardwoods such

as plywood, spruce or basswood, but it is usually necessary to

fillet the joint later with medium CA. Thin CA has the ability to

“wick” into joints.This means it will be drawn into very fine gaps

between parts. This characteristic makes thin CA very useful for

a lot of tasks, such as gluing seams already clamped together or

installing CA hinges. Thin CA usually sets very rapidly, so do not

expect to move parts at all after glue is applied. This rapid

reaction may also produce annoying fumes and heat. Always use

CA glues in a well-ventilated area.

Medium CA: Used in general construction for parts which have

gaps, require slight repositioning or involve hardwoods. Medium

CA can be used to make small fillets between parts in high stress

areas. Medium CA is a very good general purpose glue and many

people use it for the majority of their building. The Tower Trainer

40 uses Medium CA in many areas, so it is suggested that you have

a 2 oz. bottle to make sure there is enough to complete the kit.

★★★★ Pro Tip: Zipper top food storage bags are handy to

store your parts as you sort, identify, and separate them into

sub-assemblies.

Some medium CA glues can be slow to set, especially when used to

fill gaps. A product known as CA Accelerator is available to speed

up the curing process. It is sprayed onto the joint after the glue is

applied and chemically reacts with the glue, causing it to set very

rapidly.There are a few precautions when using an accelerator...

Use it in a well-ventilated area. The rapid reaction can release

irritating fumes at a much higher rate than normal. Do not use

CA accelerators with thin CA!

Be careful when using the accelerator around plastics. Certain

accelerators will attack plastics and the vapors may fog clear

canopies. It is best to test the glue and accelerator on a leftover

piece of plastic if one is available.

Using too much accelerator may cause the CA glue to react very

rapidly and literally boil. This will result in a joint with a chalky

white color which is not nearly as strong as a normal joint.

Epoxy is used on high-stress joints requiring strength and vibration

resistance. Epoxy also works well in areas encountering fuel. The

slower cure time allows parts to be clamped, checked and

realigned if necessary before it cures. Epoxy is available in many

different formulas having different cure times. The single best type

of epoxy to have when building your Tower Trainer 40 is one

which sets up in 30 minutes, but you may also find 6-minute

epoxy handy to have around.

NOTES ON SANDING

Use a block or bar sander whenever possible.The flat block will

“ignore” glue and variations in wood hardness and give you a

true and even shape.

Always use fresh, sharp sandpaper. Sharp sandpaper will cut

through glue and hard materials easily, giving an even surface.

Older, dull sandpaper will require more pressure and may gouge

the surface. Now on to building your Tower Trainer 40!

“BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES”

Build the Stabilizer and Elevator

❍ 1. Cut the "Stabilizer/Elevator" section from the fuselage plan

sheet and tape it on your building board. Tape a piece of wax

paper or Plan Protector over the plan.

❍ 2. Place the 1/4" x 1" x 10" balsa stick over the portion of the

plan marked "Stab Forward Center," and line up the back edge of

the stick with the straight line. Draw two angled lines where you

will cut this stick. Remove the stick from the plan and cut the

stick along the lines using a hobby knife or razor saw. Straighten

and square the cut edges with a sanding block. Trim the ends

slightly to match the length shown on the plans.

❍ 3. Pin the Stab Forward Center into position on the plans. Test

fit the balsa 1/4" x 3" x 4" Stab Center into place. There should

be no gaps between the center and forward pieces. After fitting,

glue and pin the center to the forward using Medium CA.

❍ 4. Use two 1/4" x 1/2" x 36" balsa sticks to build the outside

framework of the Stabilizer. Start by placing the longest piece

first, working until you are placing the shortest (end) pieces. Glue

each piece together using Medium CA as you proceed.

❍ 5. Cut the corner gussets from the 1/4" x 1/2" balsa stick and

glue them into position.

★★★★ Pro Tip: If you are unfamiliar with "Built-up"

construction, we have found that the following method is

very easy and accurate.

A. Position an uncut stick directly over the plan and pin it

in place.

B. Mark each side of the stick where it ends or butts with

another part.

C. Remove the stick from the building surface and flip it over.

Draw a line between the marks you made previously using

a straight edge.

D. Using a razor saw, cut as close to the line as possible.Then,

with your sanding block, true-up the ends to the line. Flip

the part over and pin back in place over the plan.

❍ 6. Cut and install the Stab Bracing using 1/4" x 1/4" x 36" balsa

sticks. Note: It is best to start with the straight pieces, then go to

the angled pieces. The alignment of each piece to the plan is not

critical, just as long as it is close and fits snugly into position.

❍ 7. Remove the Stabilizer from your building surface. Examine

and add thick CA glue to any open joints, then use your sanding

block with medium (150-grit) sandpaper to sand both sides of the

Stabilizer framework smooth.

❍ 8. Cut the Elevator from the 1/4" x 1-3/8" x 30" balsa stick. Save

the remaining section for making the Rudder.

❍ 9. Use your sanding block with medium (150-grit) sandpaper

to sand both sides of the Elevator smooth. Round the corners of

both pieces as shown on the plan.

BUILD THE FIN AND RUDDER

❍ 1. Cut the "Fin/Rudder" section from the fuselage plan sheet

and tape it on your building board.Tape a piece of wax paper or

Plan Protector over the plan. Build the frame of the Fin using a

1/4" x 1/2" x 36" balsa stick.

❍ 2. Install the Inner Framework of the Fin using 1/4" x 1/4" x 36"

balsa. Cut and install the corner gusset from the remaining

1/4" x 1/2" balsa.

❍ 3. Remove the Fin from your building surface. Examine and

add thick CA glue to any open joints, then use your sanding block

or bar sander with medium (150-grit) sandpaper to sand both

sides of the Fin smooth.

❍ 4. Build the Dorsal Fin from the remaining 1/4" x 1/2" and 1/4"

x 1/4" pieces. Examine and add thick CA glue to any open joints,

then use your sanding block or bar sander with medium

(150-grit) sandpaper to sand both sides of the Dorsal Fin smooth.

❍ 5. Use the remaining section of 1/4" x 1-3/8" x 30" balsa to

make the Rudder.

❍ 6. Place the Fin, Dorsal Fin and Rudder flat on your work surface

and sand them flat using a sanding block or bar sander and

120-grit sandpaper. Don’t forget to sand both sides smooth. Once

they are sanded, round the corners of the fin, dorsal fin and rudder

to match the plans.

Note: The Dorsal Fin will be glued in place after the Fin is

attached to the fuselage.

Bevel the Elevator and Rudder

❍ 1. Use a smooth ball point pen to draw a centerline along the

leading edge of the Elevator and Rudder.

❍ 2. Refering to the cross sections on the plan, carefully block

sand the elevator and rudder leading edges to a "V" shape. The

centerlines you drew earlier should remain for hinging later.

❍ 3. Using 180-grit sandpaper, round the leading edge and tips

of both the Fin and Stabilizer. Leave the trailing edges square.

INSTALLING THE HINGES

❍ 1. Use a smooth ball point pen to draw a centerline along the

trailing edge of the Stabilizer and Fin. Lay the Fin and Stabilizer on

the plan and mark the hinge locations. Place the Rudder against

the Fin TE and transfer the marks onto the Fin. Place the Elevator

against the Stabilizer and transfer the marks onto the Stabilizer.

❍ 2. Cut the hinge slots on the accurate centerlines which you

previously drew, using a hobby knife or a slotting fork and slotting

hook. (The recommended hinge slotting technique is listed below).

CAUTION!!!: You must use extreme care when cutting hinge

slots with a hobby knife, to avoid cutting yourself! If the balsa

part breaks while you are pushing on the knife, the blade could

go into your hand before you know it! A good precaution is to

wear leather gloves while performing the following steps and

always cut AWAY from yourself.

❍ 3. Insert the hinges into the slots and trial fit the Rudder and

Elevator in place on the Fin and Stabilizer. Do not glue the

hinges until after you have covered the model.

BUILD THE FUSELAGE

Fuse Side Construction

❍ 1. Cut the "Fuselage side view" section from the fuselage plan

sheet and tape it on your building board.Tape a piece ofTop Flite

Plan Protector or wax paper over the plan.

❍ 2. Glue the balsa die-cut 1/8" Upper Forward Fuse Sides to the

balsa die-cut 1/8" Lower Forward Fuse Sides using thin CA. Mark

the inside surface of the fuse sides with the letters 'R' and 'L' to

C. Trial fit the hinge into the slot. If the hinge is difficult to

push in, re-insert the knife and move it back and forth in

the slot a few times to enlarge the slot.

★★★★ Pro Tip: Hinge slotting is a procedure that is required

for every model airplane. We have found that the technique

described below is accurate and fairly easy. Just work slowly

and carefully. Remember: Hobby knives are extremely sharp!

A. Begin by carefully cutting a very shallow slit at the hinge

location. This first cut is to establish your cut in the right

place, so concentrate on staying on the centerline and

don't cut too deep!

B. Make three or four more cuts in the same line,going slightly

deeper each time.As you make these additional cuts, work

on going straight into the wood. Continue this process

while "wiggling" the knife handle back and forth until the

blade has reached the proper depth for the hinge.

designate the inside of the Right and Left fuselage sides. Be sure

to make a RIGHT and a LEFT fuselage side. Sand both sides of

the fuse sides using 150-grit sandpaper.

❍ 3. Locate the four die-cut 1/8" balsa Stabilizer Bases. Carefully

align and laminate two of the bases together using medium CA to

produce a 1/4" thick base. Repeat the procedure for the

remaining two bases. Sand the area shown in the photo using

120-grit sandpaper.

❍ 4. Use a straightedge to mark a line along the top of both fuse

sides, as there is a slight bump necessary for the die-cutting of the

part. Use a hobby knife and/or bar sander to remove the bump.

(This bump is also on the upper fuse doubler.)

❍ 5. Locate the die-cut 1/8" plywood Upper and Lower Fuse

Doublers. Make sure you are making both a Left and Right fuse

side.Test fit them onto the fuse sides as shown in the photo. Make

any necessary adjustment to allow the doublers to fit accurately

onto the fuse sides. Once all the fitting is done, glue them in

position using Thin CA. Make sure to make both a left and right

set. Sand the notches for the balsa fuse rails to provide a smooth

glue surface.

❍ 6. Place the Right Fuse Side onto the fuselage plan and pin it

in position. (The doubler should be facing away from the plan

sheet). Pin the Stabilizer Base into position on the plans.

❍ 7. Use two of the 1/4"x 1/2" x 24" balsa sticks to make the upper

and lower Fuse Rails. Use medium CA to glue them into position.

Trim the excess extending past the Stabilizer Base.

❍ 8. Using a 1/4" x 1/4" x 36" balsa stick, make the Center

Stringer. Use medium CA to glue it into position. Using leftovers

saved from the assembly of the Fin and Stab, cut the center

supports and glue them into position. Position the center supports

as accurately as possible, as the installation of the formers as well

as the top and bottom of the fuse depends on their locations.

❍ 9. Once the glue sets, remove the Fuselage Side from your

building surface. Examine and add thick CA glue to any open joints,

then use your sanding block or bar sander with medium (150-grit)

sandpaper to sand both sides of the Fuselage Side smooth.

❍ 10. Place the Right Fuse Side underneath the wax paper. (The

side doesn’t have to align with the plans for this step.) The

doubler should be facing away from the wax paper or plan

protector. The remaining Fuse Side will be built directly on top of

our completed side to insure accuracy.

❍ 11. Place the Left Fuse Side directly on top of the Right Fuse

Side, carefully aligning them together. Use T-pins to lock the two

sides together. Repeat the procedure for the Stabilizer Base.

❍ 12. Make the Fuse Rails for the Left Fuse Side using the same

technique from the right side. The Left Fuse Side must match the

Right as closely as possible, or the fuselage will not be straight

when you are done. Once all the parts are cut and fit, use

Medium CA to glue them into position.

❍ 13. Once the glue sets, remove the Left Fuselage Side from the Right

Fuselage Side. Examine and add thick CA glue to any open joints, then

use your sanding block or bar sander with medium (150-grit)

sandpaper to sand both sides of the Left Fuselage Side smooth.

❍ 14. Locate the three fuselage triplers and glue them in their proper

locations on the inside of the fuselage. Make sure the alignment of

the triplers doesn’t interfere with the notches for the formers.

❍ 15. Drill 1/4" holes as shown through the fuselage sides for the

wing dowels using the notches in the upper triplers for alignment.

Carefully sand the bottom edges of the fuselage sides flat to provide

a good surface to glue the bottom of the fuse into position.

Fuse Structure Assembly

❍ 1. Locate the die-cut 1/8" plywood F1A Former and the two

die-cut 1/8" plywood F1B Formers. Center the F1A Former on the

F1B Formers with the punch marks visible. The notches of all

formers will align when positioned correctly. Use the plans to

position the formers. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue them together.

Clamp or tape the firewall formers together until the glue sets.You

should have used enough epoxy so it will "ooze" out between the

formers.This excess epoxy can be cleaned up before it cures using

a paper towel dampened with rubbing alcohol.

Note: For the following steps, refer to the firewall cross section

drawing on the fuselage plans. At this point you must know which

engine and mount you will use. If you are using the recommended

engine and mount, the punch marks on F1A will be in the correct

locations. If you are using a different engine or mount requiring

different bolt locations, you will need to determine the locations

for your installation. To determine the center of the mount, draw

lines on the firewall as shown on the plan and in the previous

photo. Position your engine mount so it is centered on the lines.

Mark the locations for your mounting bolts. Locations for the nose

gear and throttle pushrods will be determined the same way for

any engine/mount combination.

❍ 2. If you are using the recommended mount, drill the four

punch marks in F1A with a 3/16" drill.

❍ 3. Gently tap four 6-32 blind nuts into the back (F1B) side of

the firewall. Carefully apply a small drop of Thin CA to the

perimeter of the flange on each 6-32 blind nut.

❍ 4. Locate the die-cut 1/8" plywood Former F2 and drill 3/16"

holes at the punch marks. Use the Former F2 cross section on the

fuselage plan sheet to confirm these locations.

❍ 5. Test fit 1/8" plywood Former F2 in place on the Right Fuse

Side. Press it down into its slot and use a 90 degree triangle to

keep it perpendicular to the fuse side. Glue it in place with

Medium CA.

❍ 6. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" plywood Former F3 in place on the

Right Fuse Side. Press it down into its slot and use a 90 degree

triangle to keep it perpendicular to the fuse side. Glue it in place

with Medium CA.

❍ 7. Position the Left Fuselage Side onto the formers. Use

Medium CA and glue the fuse side to the formers.

❍ 8. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" plywood Landing Gear Plate (LGP).

Once satisfied with the fit, glue it with 6-minute epoxy.

❍ 9. Cut the remaining 1/4" x 1/4" x 36" balsa stick into two 12"

pieces to be used as the Servo Rails. Position the Servo Rails so

they are flush with the aft edge of the main fuse side. They will

extend forward of Former F2 when installed. WickThin CA along

the edges of the rails and fuse sides to glue them in place.

❍ 10. Cut the "FuselageTopView" section from the fuselage plan

sheet and tape it on your building board. Tape a piece of wax

paper or Plan Protector over the plan.

❍ 11. Locate the die-cut 1/8" plywood Forward Fuse Bottom.

Tape the Forward Fuse Bottom onto the fuselage. Set the fuselage

assembly upright (in its normal position) on the waxed paper.

With everything in its proper place, apply thin CA glue to all the

joints, around the formers and along the bottom. Keep checking

the parts fit and alignment as you glue.Wait a minute for the glue

to set, then apply thick CA to the joints to make sure a good bond

exists, especially in the joints that do not fit perfectly.

Note: The use of CA accelerator will be helpful when using thick

CA to fill any large gaps.

❍ 12. Locate the die-cut 1/8" balsa Aft Fuse Bottom and pin it

over the top view. Carefully align the fuselage sides and glue the

LGP to the front of the die-cut 1/8" balsa Fuse Bottom with

Medium CA. Use weights and/or pins to hold the fuse sides in

position. Place one die-cut 1/8" plywood Former F4 and one

die-cut 1/8" plywood Former F5 in their respective positions

against the Aft Fuse Bottom.

❍ 13. Pull the fuse sides against Former F5. The fuselage sides

should be centered on the bottom sheet. Press the Fuselage Sides

down tightly against the sheet and snug against the former. Press

Former F5 tightly against the Stabilizer Base. Use Medium CA to

glue the Fuse Sides to the Fuse Bottom and Former F5.

❍ 14. Pull the fuse sides against Former F4. The fuselage sides

should be centered on the bottom sheet. Press the Fuselage Sides

down tightly against the sheet and snug against the former. Press

Former F4 tightly against the Balsa Center Support. Use Medium

CA to glue the Fuse Sides to the Fuse Bottom and Former F4.

❍ 15. With Former F4 and Former F5 glued in position, apply

thin CA glue to all the joints, around the formers and along the

bottom. Keep checking the parts fit and alignment as you glue.

Wait a minute for the glue to set, then apply thick CA to the joints

to make sure a good bond exists, especially in the joints that do

not fit perfectly.

Note: The use of CA accelerator will be helpful when using thick

CA to fill any large gaps.

❍ 16. Place the remaining Former F4 and Former F5 into

position inside the fuselage. Pull the fuse together against the

formers and tack glue them into position with Thin CA.

❍ 17.Test fit the die-cut 1/8" balsa FuseTop into position, making

sure the slot for the Rudder Pushrod Exit is on the left (looking

from the back to the front). Once satisfied with the fit of the fuse

top, remove it and run a bead of Medium CA along the top of the

Upper Fuse Rails from the front of the rail to in front of Former

F5. Place the FuseTop back into position.After the CA has cured,

remove the fuse from the building board and run a bead of

Medium CA along the seam where the sides meet the fuse top.

Note:The section from F5 to the tail of the fuselage will be glued

after the Fin has been installed.

❍ 18. Test fit the Firewall Assembly into position. Make sure it is

fully seated against the fuse doublers. Remove the firewall and

use 30-minute epoxy to glue it in position. Check the firewall

periodically to make sure it remains pressed tight against the

fuse doublers.

❍ 19. Position the Main Landing Gear on the bottom of the fuse,

using the plans as reference. Place one of the Landing Gear

Straps onto the gear and mark the location of only one of the

holes. Drill the mark using a 1/16" drill bit, then secure the strap

with a #2 x 3/8" Sheet Metal Screw.

❍ 20. Measure the distance from each tip of the Main Landing

Gear to the tail of the fuse. Adjust as necessary to make both

measurements equal. Once the gear is in position, place and

mark the locations for the remaining three Landing Gear Straps.

Drill 1/16" holes at the marks and secure the Main Landing Gear.

In total, you should have eight #2 x 3/8" Sheet Metal Screws and

four Landing Gear Straps. The Main Landing Gear may be

removed until after covering.

❍ 21. Use Medium CA to glue the front fuse doublers to the

inside of the engine compartment.

BUILD THE WING

Note: The Tower Trainer 40 wing, much like the fuselage, is

designed with simplicity and ease of building in mind. Always

remember to test fit parts before using glue to make any

adjustments for the best possible fit.

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