Viper 300+ Bedienungsanleitung

Table of Contents

Experienced security installers may skip to Pg. 8, but read

all the italicized sections, as they describe changes and/or new features.

Installation Points to Remember Page 2

Deciding on Component Location 3

Finding the Wires you Need 5

Step-by-step meter instructions!

Making your Wire Connections 7

Primary Harness Diagram 8

Wire Connection Guide 9

Plug in LED and Valet®/Program Switch 11

Four-pin Shock Sensor Harness 11

Bypassing Sensor Inputs 12

Door Lock Wiring Diagrams 12-15

Transmitter/Receiver Learn Routine™16

Two-vehicle Operation with Single Transmitter 17

Operating-Settings Learn Routine™

New Double Pulse Unlock Feature

Feature Descriptions 20

Nuisance Prevention®Circuitry 21

Valet®Mode 21

Table of Zones 22

Troubleshooting 22

INSTALLATION

GUIDE

Directed Electronics, Inc.

VVIIPPEERR

300+

Do not disconnect the battery if the vehicle has an antitheft-coded radio. If equipped with an air bag, avoid

disconnecting the battery if possible. IMPORTANT: Many airbag systems will display a diagnostic code through

their warning light after they lose power. Disconnecting the battery requires this code to be erased, a procedure

that can require a trip to the dealer.

Before beginning the installation:

•Check with the customer on Status LED location.

•Remove the domelight fuse. This prevents accidentally draining the battery.

•Roll down a window to avoid being locked out of the car.

After the install:

•Test all functions. The "Using Your System" section of the Owner's Guide is very helpful when testing.

•When testing, don’t forget that this system is equipped with Nuisance Prevention®Circuitry.

NPC™ can bypass trigger zones, making them appear to stop working. (See page 21)

INSTALLATION POINTS TO REMEMBER

Primary

harness

3-pin

2-wire

door

lock

harness

Two471T

remote

transmitters

514T

Revenger™

Soft Chirp™

siren

2-pin

mini

blue

Valet®/

Program

plug

2-pin

micro

LED

plug

Stinger™ Double

Guard™

Shock

Sensor

Adjustment

Plug-in

Status LED

Plug-in

Valet®/Program

switch

Pre-wired 8618

Starter Kill

Relay

Step One:

Deciding on Component Locations

Siren

Some things to remember when mounting the siren:

•Keep it away from heat sources. Radiators, exhaust manifolds, turbochargers, and heat shields are all

things to avoid.

•Mount it where a thief cannot easily disconnect it, whether the hood is open or shut. Both the siren and

its wires should be difficult to find. This usually involves disguising the wire to look like a factory harness.

•We recommend against grounding the siren to its

mounting screws. Instead, we recommend running

both the red and black wires into the passenger

compartmentandgroundingtoonecommonpointfor

all devices. After all, both wires are the same length

and come already bonded together. Whenever

possible,conceal your wiresin the factoryharnesses

or in the same style loom as the factory.

•When possible, put the siren on the same side of the

vehicle as the control module, where its wires will

reach the control module’s wires without extending

them. Always run the wires through the center of a

grommet, never through bare metal!

•Point the siren down so water does not collect in it.

Control Module

Never put the control module in the engine compartment!

The first step in hot-wiring a vehicle is removing the driver's side underdash panel to access the starter and ignition

wires. If the control module is placed just behind the driver's side dash it can easily be disconnected.

Whenlocatingthecontrolmodule, try tofinda secure locationthatwill not require youto extend the harnesses’ wires

(theyare1.5meterslong).Keepitawayfromtheheatercore(orany

other heat sources) and any obvious leaks.

The higher the control module is in the vehicle, the better the

transmitterrange will be. If you put the control moduleunder a seat

or inside a metal dashboard, range will suffer, and you may wish to

add a 542T Range Extending Antenna (available separately).

Somegoodcontrolmodulelocations:Abovetheglovebox,insidethe

center console, above the underdash fuse box, above the radio, etc.

Stinger

Doubleguard

Shock Sensor

How the control module is mounted is the single biggest factor in the performance of the on-board shock sensor. We

recommend two mounting methods: using double-sided tape or hook-and-loop fastener to mount to a trim panel or

an air duct, or wire-tying to a wire harness.

NOTE: In many vehicles, screwing the control module to metal will result in poor sensitivity, especially

on the rear of the vehicle.

Ifmountingthemodulewherethesensor'sadjustmentscrewcannotbeeasilyreachedforadjustment,hook-and-loop

fastening tape (such as Velcro) is recommended for ease of removal for future adjustments.

If the sensor must be temporarily bypassed for any reason, please see pg. 12.

Valet

Program Switch

Ensure that the location you pick for the switch has sufficient clearance to the rear. The switch should be well hidden.

It should be placed so passengers or stored items (such as in a glove box or center console) cannot accidentally hit

it. The switch fits in a 9/32" hole.

Thissystem has Remote Valet®.The user can enter and exit Valet®Mode without having to reach the Valet®/program

switch. DEI®introduced this feature so that switch location was less critical in day-to-day use. As long as the

Valet®/program switch can be reached to disarm without a transmitter, easy access is not important.

IMPORTANT! When the vehicle is delivered, please show the user where the switches are located and

how to disarm the system with it.

Status LED

Things to remember when positioning the Status LED:

•Itshouldbevisiblefrombothsidesandtherearofthevehicle,ifposible.

•It needs at least 1/2" clearance to the rear.

•It is easiest to use a small removable panel, such as a switch blank or

a dash bezel. Remove it before drilling your 9/32" hole.

•Use quick-disconnects near the LED wires if the panel is removable.

Thisletsmechanicsor other installers removethepanel without cutting

the wires.

Optional Starter Kill Relay

If Starter Kill Relay or its connections are immediately visible upon removal of the underdash panel, they can easily

be bypassed. Always make the relay and its connections difficult to discern from the factory wiring! Exposed yellow

butt connectors do not look like factory parts, and will not fool anyone! For this reason, routing the starter kill wires

away from the steering column is recommended.

Step 2:

Finding the Wires You Need

Now that you have decided where each component will be located, you’re going to find the wires in the car that the

security system will be connected to.

IMPORTANT! Donot use a12V test lightto find thesewires! All testingdescribed in thismanual is described

using a digital multimeter

Obtaining Constant 12V

We recommend two possible sources for 12V constant: The (+) terminal of the battery, or the constant supply to the

ignition switch.

Always install a fuse within 12 inches of this connection. If the fuse also will be powering other

circuits, such as door locks, a power window module, a Nite-Lite®headlight control system, etc.; fuse accordingly.

IMPORTANT! Do not remove the fuse holder on the red wire. It ensures that the control module has its own

fuse, of the proper value, regardless of how many accessories are added to the main power feed.

Finding the 12V Switched Ignition Wire

The ignition wire is powered when the key is in the run or start position. This is because the ignition wire powers the

ignition system (spark plugs, coil) as well as the fuel delivery system (fuel pump, fuel injection computer). Accessory

wires,on the other hand, lose power when the key is in the start position to make more current available to the starter

motor.

How to find (+)12V ignition with your multimeter:

1. Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine).

2. Attach the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground.

3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the ignition wire. The steering column

harness or ignition switch harness is an excellent place to find this wire.

4. Turn the ignition key switch to the run position. If your meter reads (+)12V,

go to the next step. If it doesn’t, probe another wire.

5. Nowturnthekeytothestartposition.Themeterdisplayshouldstaysteady,

not dropping by more than a few tenths of a volt. If it drops close to or all

the way to zero, go back to step 3. If it stays steady at (+)12V, you have

found an ignition wire.

Finding a (+) Parking Iight Wire

The(+) parkinglight wire is often found near the switch. Many cars have the switch built into the turnsignal lever,and

in these cars the parking light wire can be found in the steering column. The same wire is often available in the kick

panel or running board.

NOTE: Many Toyotas, as well as many other Asian vehicles, send a (-) signal from the switch to a relay. The

relay then sends 12V(+) to the bulbs. Whenever you have difficulty finding a (+) parking light wire near the

switch, simply test the wires at any switch or control panel

which is lit by the instrument panel lighting.

Remember, you need a (+) parking light wire that does not vary with dimmer setting.

How to find a (+) parking light flash wire with your multimeter

1. Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine).

2. Attach the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground.

3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the parking light wire. Usually,

the area near the headlight/parking light switch is an excellent area

to start, as is the kick panel.

4. Turn on the parking lights. If your meter shows (+)12V, turn off the

parking lights and make sure it goes back to zero.

5. If it does return to zero, turn the parking lights back on and, using the dash light dimmer control, turn the

brightness of the dash lights up and down.

If the meter changes more than a volt when using the dimmer,

look for another wire.

If it stays relatively close to (+)12V, you have found your parking light wire.

Finding the Door Pin Switch Circuit

The best places to find the door switch wire are:

At the pin switch

When testing at the pin switch, check the wire to ensure that it “sees” all the doors. Often,

the passenger switch will cover all the doors even if the driver’s switch will not.

At the dome light

This may not be your best choice if the vehicle has delayed domelight supervision, but

it will work in many Hondas, or any vehicle with completely diode-isolated pin switches.

Once you have determined the wire color, the easiest place to connect to the wire is often at the kick panel, at the

windshieldpillar, or in the running board. When an easy location is not available,running awire tothe domelight itself

is often the best solution.

How to find a door pin switch trigger wire with your multimeter:

1. Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine).

2. InmostFords,fastenthe(-)probeofthemetertochassisground.Inmostothercars,fastenthe(+)probe

of your meter to (+)12V constant.

3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the door trigger wire. If the meter reads (+)12V when any door is

opened, you have found a trigger wire.

NOTE: Make sure the wire you use “sees” all the doors! Some newer GM vehicles lack standard-type

pinswitches.Thedomelightinthesevehiclesisturned on when the door handle is lifted. Theseusually

have a blue/white or white coming out of the door into the kick panel which will provide a (-) trigger for

all doors. Some GM vehicles (some Cavaliers, Grand Ams, etc.) have a yellow wire coming out of the

door which provides a (+) door trigger.

How to find the (+)12V starter wire with your multimeter:

1. Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine).

2. Attach the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground.

3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the starter wire. The steering

column is an excellent place to find this wire. Remember you do not

need to interrupt the starter at the same point you test it. Hiding your

starter kill relay and connections is always recommended.

4. Turnthe ignition key switch to the startposition.Make sure the car is

not in gear! If your meter reads (+)12V, go to the next step. If it

doesn’t, probe another wire.

5. Cut the wire you suspect of being the starter wire.

6. Attempt to start the car. If the starter engages, reconnect it and go back to step 3. If the starter does not

turn over, you have the right wire.

Step 3:

Making Your Wire Connections

Before making your connections, plan how your wires will be routed through the vehicle. For instance, the yellow

ignitioninput,thered12Vconstantinput,andtheorangeground-when-armedoutput(fortheoptionalstarterkillrelay)

will often be routed together to the ignition switch harness. In order to keep the wiring neat and make it harder to find,

youmaywishtowrapthesewirestogetherinelectricaltapeorconcealthemintubingsimilartowhatthemanufacturer

used.

Therearetwoacceptablewaysofmakingawireconnection:Solderconnectionsandcrimp connectors.Whenproperly

performed, either type of connection is reliable and trouble-free. Regardless of whether you solder your connections

or you use mechanical-type crimp-on connections, ensure that all connections are mechanically sound and that they

are insulated.

Cheap electrical tape, especially when poorly applied, is not a reliable insulator. It often falls off in hot weather. Use

good-quality electrical tape or heat shrink.

Never

twist-and-tape the wires together without soldering.

Never

use “fuse taps,” as they can damage fuse box terminals.

Ifyouusetappingconnectorssuchas 3M T-Taps (not tobeconfusedwithScotch-Locks),avoidusingtheminhigher-

current applications (constant 12V, ground, etc.). Some tapping connectors are inferior in quality and should be

avoided.

PRIMARY HARNESS DIAGRAM H1, 12-PIN CONNECTOR

ORANGE (-) 500 MA ARMED OUTPUT

WHITE (+) LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT

WHITE/BLUE (-) 200 MA CHANNEL 3 VALIDITY OUTPUT

BLACK/WHITE (-) 200 MA DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT

GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3

BLUE (-) MULTIPLEX TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 4

VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3

BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND INPUT

YELLOW (+) SWITCHED IGNITION INPUT, ZONE 5

BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT

RED (+) CONSTANT POWER INPUT

RED/WHITE (-) 200 MA CHANNEL 2 VALIDITY OUTPUT

H1/1

H1/2

H1/3

H1/4

H1/5

H1/6

H1/7

H1/8

H1/9

H1/10

H1/11

H1/12

WIRE CONNECTION GUIDE

H1/1ORANGE

(-)ground-when-armedoutput:Thiswiresuppliesa(-)500mAgroundaslongasthesystemisarmed.

This output ceases as soon as the system is disarmed. The orange wire is pre-wired to control the 8618 starter kill

relay. NOTE:IfconnectingtheORANGEwiretocontrolanothermodule,suchasa529Tor530Twindowcontroller,

a 1 amp diode (type 1N4004) will be required. Insert the diode as shown below.

H1/2 WHITE

(+) light flash output: This wire should be connected to the (+) parking light wire, as described in the

“Finding the wires you need” section of this manual. This output is protected with a 7.5 amp fuse. Never increase the

value of the light flash fuse. If more current is required, use an external relay.

H1/3 WHITE/BLUE

channel 3 (-) output: This wire provides a (-) 200 mA signal whenever the transmitter code

controllingchannel3isreceived.Thissignalwillcontinueaslongasthattransmissionisreceived.Useforoptionssuch

as the 551T Valet® Start system, the 529T or 530T power window controllers, etc.

IMPORTANT!Neverusethiswiretodriveanythingbutarelayoralow-currentinput!Thetransistorizedoutput

canonly provide200mAofcurrent,and connectingdirectlytoasolenoid,motor,orotherhigh-currentdevice

will cause it to fail.

H1/4 BLACK/WHITE

(-) 200 mA

domelight-supervision output: Connect this wire to the optional domelight

supervision relay as shown below:

IMPORTANT! This output is only intended to drive a relay. It cannot be connected directly to the domelight

circuit, as the output cannot support the current draw of one or more light bulbs.

BLACK

GREEN

TO STARTER MOTOR

ORANGE

IGNITION SWITCH 1N4004DIODE

PRE-WIRED

STARTER KILL

RELAY

ORANGE (-)

WHEN-ARMED

OUTPUT

TO OPTIONAL

SENSORS, 529T,

530T, ETC.

CONTROL

UNIT

IMPORTANT! Never interrupt any wire other than the starter wire. cccc

H1/4 BLACK/WHITE

(+) 12V

CONSTANT FUSED

(-) CHASSIS GROUND IF

DOORS ARE (-) SWITCHED,

(+) 12V IF DOORS ARE

(+) SWITCHED

H1/5 GREEN (-) DOOR INPUT

H1/7 VIOLET (+) DOOR INPUT

WHITE H1/2

(+) LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT

(+) YELLOW SWITCHED IGNITION

YELLOW

H1/5 GREEN

(-) door trigger

H1/7 VIOLET

(+)

door trigger input: If the door switch wire you found is (-) when the

door is open, connect the GREEN wire to it. If the door switch wire you found is (+) when the door is open, use the

VIOLET wire instead.

IMPORTANT! Test to make sure this wire "sees" all doors!

H1/6 BLUE

(-) Multiplex trigger input: This input is capable of triggering either the Warn Away® response or the

triggeredsequence. Inputsthatareshorterthan.8secondswillonlytriggertheWarnAway® response. Thefirststage

ofallDEI® dualstagesensorssupplythistypeofpulse. Inputsthatarelongerthan.8secondswilltriggerthefullalarm

cycle. The second stage output of DEI®dual stage sensors supply this type of pulse. Connecting this input to a hood

or trunk pin switch will also trigger the full alarm response.

H1/8BLACK

(-)chassisgroundconnection.Connect this wire to bare metal,preferablywithafactory bolt rather than

your own screw (screws tend to either strip or loosen with time). We recommend grounding all your components to

the same point in the vehicle.

NOTE: Remove any paint below ring connector.

H1/9 YELLOW

(+) ignition input. Connect this wire to an ignition wire as described on page 5. This wire must show

+12V with the key in run position and during cranking. Take great care that this wire cannot be shorted to the chassis

at any point.

H1/10BROWN

(+) siren output:Connect this to the red wire of the514T Revenger™ siren.Connect the black wire of

the siren to (-) chassis ground, preferably at the same point you grounded the control module’s H1/8 BLACK wire.

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