FuzzDog PHASE 90 Bedienungsanleitung

PHASE 90

One knob of glorious

phasey phun

No reproduction permitted without the express written

Important notes

If you’r using any of our footswitch daught rboards,

DOWNLOAD THE DAUGHTERBOARD DOCUMENT

•Download and read the appropriate build document for the daughterboard

as well as this one BEFORE you start.

•DO NOT solder the supplied Current Limiting Resistor (CLR) to the main

circuit board even if there is a place for it. This should be soldered to the

footswitch daughterboard.

POWER SUPPLY

Unless otherwise stated in this document this circuit is designed to be

powered with 9V DC.

COMPONENT SPECS

Unless otherwise stated in this document:

•Resistors should be 0.25W. You can use those with higher ratings but

check the physical size of them.

•Electrolytics caps should be at least 25V for 9V circuits, 35V for 18V

circuits. Again, check physical size if using higher ratings.

LAYOUT CONVENTIONS

Unless otherwise stated in this document, the following are used:

•El ctrolytic capacitors:

Long leg (anode) to square pad.

•Diod s/LEDs:

Striped leg (cathode) to square pad. Short leg to square pad for LEDs.

•ICs:

Square pad indicates pin 1.

Schematic + BOM

R1 10K

R2 470K

R3 150K

R4 150K

R5 56K

R6 150K

R7 10K

R8 10K

R9 22K

R10 10K

R11 10K

R12 22K

R13 10K

R14 10K

R15 22K

R16 10K

R17 10K

R18 22K

R20 150K

R21 3M9

R22 150K

R23 4K7

R24 470K

R25 150K

R26 47R

R27 10K

R28 1M

R30 1M

D1 5.1v zener

D2 1N4001

D3 LED

Q1 2N5087

Q2-5 Matched FETs*

IC1 TL072

IC2 TL074

C1 10n

C2 47n

C3 47n

C4 47n

C5 47n

C6 47n

C7 47n

C8 10n

C9 15u elec

C10 100u elec

C11 100n

C12 22u

SPEED 500KC

FBACK 47K trim**

BIAS 250K trim

* / ** see page 5

The power and signal pads on the PCB conform to

the FuzzDog Direct Connection format, so can be

paired with the appropriate daughterboard for

quick and easy offboard wiring. Check the separate

daughterboard document for details.

Be very careful when soldering the diodes and

transistors. They’re very sensitive to heat. You

should use some kind of heat sink (crocodile clip or

reverse action tweezers) on each leg as you solder

them. Keep exposure to heat to a minimum (under

2 seconds). Same goes for the ICs if you aren’t

using sockets.

Snap the small metal tag off the pots so they can

be mounted flush in the box.

You should solder all other board-mounted

components before you solder the pot. Once it’s in

place you’ll have no access to some of the board.

*FETs

You need to use a matched set of FETs for this

build. The board is designed for 2N5457. If you’re

using different FETs check your pinout.

BIASING

Use the bias trimmer to adjust the voltage at the

gates of the FETs. You can do this by ear, simply

tweaking until you get the best phasing effect. If you

want to do it by numbers it should be around 3V.

**FEEDBACK

We’ve added space for a trimmer for the feedback

setting. The standard parts for this are:

Script logo version - empty - no feedback

Block logo version - 22K resistor

So it’s up to you. Leave it out, put the 22K across

the trimmer pads shown in red above, or use a

trimmer and adjust to taste. If the latter, use a

47-50K trimmer, set it to the middle position and

tweak it either way until you’re happy.

There are extra pads provided for the trimmers so

you can use several different types. ust drop the

pins into the holes as they naturally fall. Lines

shown above show which pads are internally

connected on the PCB.

22K resistor across

these pads if going

for that option.

See below.

Test the board!

Ch ck th r l vant daught rboard docum nt for mor

info b for you und rtak this stag .

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES will troubl shooting h lp

b off r d if you hav skipp d this stag . No xc ptions.

Once you’ve finished the circuit it makes sense to test is before starting on the switch and LED

wiring. It’ll cut down troubleshooting time in the long run. If the circuit works at this stage, but it

doesn’t once you wire up the switch - guess what? You’ve probably made a mistake with the switch.

Solder some nice, long lengths of wire to the board connections for 9V, GND, IN and OUT. Connect

IN and OUT to the jacks as shown. Connect all the GNDs together (twist them up and add a small

amount of solder to tack it). Connect the battery + lead to the 9V wire, same method. Plug in. Go!

If you’re using a ribbon cable you can tack the wires to the ends of that. It’s a lot easier to take them

off there than it is do desolder wires from the PCB pads.

If it works, carry on and do your switch wiring. If not... aw man. At least you know the problem is

with the circuit. Find out why, get it working, THEN worry about the switch etc.

Your compl t d circuit board

including pots

Wiring shown above will disconnect the battery when you remove the jack plug

from the input, and also when a DC plug is inserted.

The Board GND connections don’t all have to directly attach to the board. You

can run a couple of wires from the DC connector, one to the board, another to

the IN jack, then daisy chain that over to the OUT jack.

It doesn’t matter how they all connect, as long as they do.

This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be Tip

Negative / Sleeve Positive. That’s the same as your standard pedals (Boss etc),

and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.

BOARD

OUT

BOARD

GND

BOARD

GND

BOARD

GND

BOARD

INPUT

BATTERY

OUT

BOARD

GND

BOARD

Wire it up (if using a daughterboard please refer to the relevant document)

This template is a rough guide only. You should ensure correct marking of your

enclosure before drilling. You use this template at your own risk.

Pedal Parts Ltd can accept no responsibility for incorrect drilling of enclosures.

FuzzDog.co.uk

Drilling template

Hammond 1590B

60 x 111 x 31mm

It’s a good idea to drill the pot and

toggle switch holes 1mm bigger i

you’re board-mounting them.

Wiggle room = good!

Recommended drill sizes:

Pots 7mm

Jacks 10mm

Footswitch 12mm

DC Socket 12mm

Toggle switches 6mm

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