FuzzDog Wrecktifier Bedienungsanleitung

Wr cktifi rv2.1

High Gain Distortion fun

No reproduction permitted without the express written

A few notes to start with...

This build is not for the beginner. Please do not attempt unless you know what

you’re doing. The high parts count will make troubleshooting very difficult.

The board has been designed so you can easily add a Boner Boost as the post

boost, as the original boost section hasn’t won many hearts. Boner is

recommended if you want to add some oomph without changing the tone too

much. The original is... weird.

Version 2.1 makes adding the Boner simple - no hacks required.

Post boost is not stand-alone - it will only be engaged when the distortion is

engaged.

This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be Tip Negative /

Sleeve Positive. That’s the same as your standard pedals (Boss etc), and you can

safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.

The board is designed so you can easily run the Distortion part of the circuit at 18V

by adding the optional charge pump circuitry. The Boost section will still run at 9V.

You can even add a small switch or headers + jumper clip to select between 9/18V.

Be very careful when soldering the diodes, LEDs and transistors. They’re very

sensitive to heat. You should use some kind of heat sink (crocodile clip or reverse

action tweezers) on each leg as you solder them. Keep exposure to heat to a

minimum (under 2 seconds). Sockets are recommended for the ICs.

The long leg (anode) of the electrolytic capacitors go into the square pads.

The cathode of the LEDs (short leg) and diodes (striped leg) go into the square pads.

Snap the small metal tag off the pots so they can be mounted flush in the box.

Schematic

BOM

R1 1M

R2 1K

R3 470K

R4 10K

R5 470K

R6 1K

R7 10K

R8 470K

R9 1K

R10 47K

R11 100K

R12 1K

R13 4K7

R14 10K

R15 1K

R16 470K

R17 470K

R18 47K

R19 47K

R20 33K

R21 33K

R22 680K

R23 10K

R24 47R

R25 10K

R26 10K

R27 2K2 (CLR)

R28 2K2 (CLR)

R29 1M

R30 100R

R31A 1M

R31B Empty

R32 100K

R33 47K

R34 1K

R35 47K

R36 10K

C1 220p

C2 220n

C3 33n

C4 560p

C5 220n

C6 1u

C7 220p

C8 220n

C9 1u

C10 220p

C11 1u

C12 4n7

C13 47n

C14 47n

C15 100n

C16 1u

C17 470p

C18 47n

C19 1u

C20 100n

C21 1n

C22 47n

C23 330p

C24 1u

C25 4n7

C26 10n

C27 10u elec

C28 100p

C29 1u

C30 10n

C31 10n

C32 2u2 elec

C33 100u elec

C34 10u elec

C35 10u elec

C36 10u elec

C37 100u elec

Q1 2N5088/2N5089

IC1-3 4580

IC4 7660S

D1-5 1N4148 / 1N914

D6 1N4001

D11-12 1N4148 / 1N914

GAIN 100KA

BASS 100KC

MIDS 100KA

TREBLE 50KA

VOL 100KA

BOOST 100KA

SW1-2 3PDT FOOTSW.

SW3 SPDT TOGGLE

Part numbers shown in BLUE are for the original boost. Ignore these if building the Boner Boost version. See page 5.

Parts listed in green are for the optional charge pump. See page 6 for power options.

Leave the pots and switches until last. You won’t have access to much of the underside of the PCB once

they’re in place. When soldering these, a good tip is to only attach a single pin of each at first. That way you

can easily melt the joint and reposition the pot or switch to get it aligned with the others before attaching the

rest. They’re difficult to move once fully attached.

If your pots don’t have plastic covers you’ll have to leave plenty of space between the board and the pot body,

otherwise you’ll short out the circuit. Place some thick card beneath the pots while you solder them in. Once

you have your first pin connected, take it out and ensure you have a good clearance.

The labels on the connector pads on the main pcb and the daughterboard are:

DI - Distortion IN, DO, Distortion Out, BI - Boost In, BO - Boost Out. Not that you need to know that. just

connect them together.

Footswitches mount with the tags horizontal, as the blue line of SW2 shows above.

R28 and R28 can go on either side of the daughterboard.

IMPORTANT! If you’r building a v rsion with th original boost,

plac a jump r as shown in r d abov .

Now you just need to place four jumper wires as shown below.

Boner Boost

The Boner Boost mod utilises component

spaces that already exist for the original

boost along with a few jumpers.

Place parts as listed in the BOM below.

Remember Q1 needs to go in the opposite

way around to how it is shown on the PCB

screen print.

R29 empty

R30 jumper

R31A Empty

R31B 10M

R32 10M

R33 5K1

R34 empty

R35 100K

R36 empty

C28 empty

C29 100n

C30 empty

C31 empty

C32 10u elec

D7 9.1V Zener

Q1 BS170 (reverse orientation)

BOOST 5KC

NO CHARGE PUMP,

EVERYTHING 9V

Leave out all the charge

pump parts (listed in green

in the BOM).

Connect these two pads with

a jumper.

CHARGE PUMP,

DISTORTION 18V

Place all the charge pump

parts (listed in green in the

BOM).

Connect these two pads with

a jumper.

CHARGE PUMP,

DISTORTION 9V/18V

Place all the charge pump

parts (listed in green in the

BOM).

The 18 / V / 9 pads are

spaced at 0.1” (2.54mm), so

you have some neat options:

Use a SPDT slide switch with

that pitch and drop it straight

in there.

Use header pins and a

jumper clip. Place the

jumper across the top or

bottom two sets of pins to

choose the power.

Wire a SPDT toggle switch

offboard so you can select

the power outside of the box.

Middle pin of the switch to

the V pad.

Power

9V? 18V? Up to you. If you choose to add the optional charge pump that will only have a bearing on

the distortion circuit. The boost, whether original or Boner, stays at 9V.

Aw maaaan... sooo sexy!

Connect everything up...

Connect everything up but the LEDs. That includes the footswitches. Connect the main PCB

to the daughterboard. The pads align perfectly so you have nice straight wire runs.

Ensure your power supply is 9V Tip Negative, or connect up a battery for now. If connecting

a battery, solder long lengths of wire to the +V and GND pads on the PCB, then attach the

battery to the other end of these. This saves desolding stuff from the board, which is a pain.

JACK SOCKETS

DC SOCKET

GND

SIGNAL

Ignore the third tag -

you only need that if

wiring up for battery.

SIGNAL is ACK IN and ACK

OUT on the PCB. Each socket

has its own GND connection

conveniently placed.

Once the sockets are connected... Plug in. Go!

If it works, crack on and get it in the box. If not,

troubleshoot. Check you have everything in the

right place and reflow any poor joints.

First thing to check - have you put in the

appropriate power jumper..?

What about my LEDs?

Pre-drilled enclosures are supplied with 3mm holes for the LEDs, rather than

larger ones that require a mounting bezel. Why? Because you can hold the LED

securely in place with the PCB. When you come to box up your lovely new circuit,

get the pots in place first. Then the jacks. Now, slide your LEDs all the way into the

PCB (short leg to square pad) and bend the legs ever so slightly so they don’t fall

out. Alternatively put a little bluetac on there. Now locate your footswitches into

place and tighten.

When everything is secure, let your LEDs slide down into the holes - use some

needle-nosed pliers or skinny fingers to position them fully in the holes. I won’t kid

you, its a little fiddly but worth it for the neat finish you’ll get.

No bezel = happy pedal.

Once in place, solder.

Those little lights aren’t going anywhere!

Drilling template

Hammond 1590BB (top face measurements)

90 x 116 x 27mm (without base)

Recommended drill sizes:

Pots 7mm

acks 10mm

Footswitch 12mm

DC Socket 12mm

Toggle 6mm

This template is a rough guide only. You should ensure correct marking of your

enclosure before drilling. You use this template at your own risk.

Pedal Parts Ltd can accept no responsibility for incorrect drilling of enclosures.

PedalParts.co.uk

It’s a good idea to drill the holes for the board-

mounted parts 1mm larger to give yourself some

wiggle room unless you’re a drill ninja.

22mm

60mm

33mm

23.5mm

6mm

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