FuzzDog Hot Snake Boost Bedienungsanleitung

Ho Snake Boos

Red Hot Treble Boost

...Careful now

No reproduction permitted without the express written

R1 220

R2 68

R3 8 2

R4 1M*

R5 2 2 (CLR)

C1 1n

C2 3n3

C3 68n

C4 47p

C5 10n

C6 47u elec

C7 47u elec

D1 1N4001

Q1 2N2222**

BOOST 10 B

HEAT 1 B

RANGE 500 A

Schematic + BOM

*R4 is an optional anti-pop resistor.

** See notes overleaf regarding pinout/orientation before placing.

The power and signal pads on the PCB

conform to the FuzzDog Direct Connection

format, so can be paired with the

appropriate daughterboard for quick and

easy offboard wiring. Check the separate

daughterboard document for details.

Be very careful when soldering the diode

and transistor. They’re very sensitive to

heat. You should use some kind of heat

sink (crocodile clip or reverse action

tweezers) on each leg as you solder them.

eep exposure to heat to a minimum

(under 2 seconds).

Snap the small metal tag off the pots so

they can be mounted flush in the box.

Positive (anode) legs of the electrolytic

caps go to the square pads.

C6 and C7 can be laid flat to the PCB as

shown on the cover image. This will give

more clearance in your enclosure.

Negative (cathode) legs of the diodes go to

the square pads.

The controls on this circuit are very

interactive. A little tweak here may require

another tweak there.

TRANSISTOR PINOUTS

Manufacturers can be very unhelpful

sometimes. Different versions of 2N2222

may have different pinouts. Check your

datasheet if sourcing your own parts.

If you’re building a FuzzDog kit, your

transistors will be one of the following:

PN2222 - these should be mounted as per

the component silkscreen on the PCB, i.e.

flat side of Q1 to bottom of board.

P2N2222 - these have the opposite pinout,

and should be reversed.

Test the board!

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES will roubleshoo ing help

be offered if you have skipped his s age. No excep ions.

Once you’ve finished the circuit it makes sense to test is before starting on the switch and

LED wiring. It’ll cut down troubleshooting time in the long run. If the circuit works at this

stage, but it doesn’t once you wire up the switch - guess what? You’ve probably made a

mistake with the switch.

Solder some nice, long lengths of wire to the board connections for 9V, GND, IN and OUT.

Connect IN and OUT to the jacks as shown. Connect all the GNDs together (twist them up

and add a small amount of solder to tack it). Connect the battery + lead to the 9V wire,

same method. Plug in. Go!

If it works, crack on and do your switch wiring. If not... aw man. At least you know the

problem is with the circuit. Find out why, get it working, THEN worry about the switch etc.

BATTERY

IN OUT

Your nice, new circuit board

INCLUDING WIRED POTS!!!!

IN 9V GND OUT

Wiring shown above will disconnect the battery when you remove the jack plug

from the input, and also when a DC plug is inserted.

The Board GND connections don’t all have to directly attach to the board. You

can run a couple of wires from the DC connector, one to the board, another to

the IN jack, then daisy chain that over to the OUT jack.

It doesn’t matter how they all connect, as long as they do.

This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be Tip

Negative / Sleeve Positive. That’s the same as your standard pedals (Boss etc),

and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.

BOARD

OUT

BOARD

GND

BOARD

GND

BOARD

GND

BOARD

INPUT

BATTERY

OUT

BOARD

GND

BOARD

LED+

Wire it up (if using a daughterboard please refer to the relevant document)

This template is a rough guide only. You should ensure correct marking of your

enclosure before drilling. You use this template at your own risk.

Pedal Parts Ltd can accept no responsibility for incorrect drilling of enclosures.

FuzzD g.c .uk

Drilling template

Hamm nd 1590B

60 x 111 x 31mm

Rec mmended drill sizes:

P ts 7mm

Jacks 10mm

F tswitch 12mm

DC S cket 12mm

32mm

21mm

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