FuzzDog Amber Chuck V4 Bedienungsanleitung

Amber Chuck V4

JTM45 in-a-box

No reproduction permitted without the express written

Important notes

If you’re usin any of our footswitch dau hterboards,

DOWNLOAD THE DAUGHTERBOARD DOCUMENT

•Download and read the appropriate build document for the

daughterboard as well as this one BEFORE you start.

•DO NOT solder the supplied Current Limiting Resistor (CLR) to the

main circuit board even if there is a place for it. This should be

soldered to the footswitch daughterboard.

COMPONENT SPECS

Unless otherwise stated in this document:

•Resistors should be 0.25W. You can use those with higher ratings but

check the physical size of them.

•Electrolytics caps should be at least 25V for 9V circuits, 35V for 18V

circuits. Again, check physical size if using higher ratings.

LAYOUT CONVENTIONS

Unless otherwise stated in this document, the following are used:

•Electrolytic capacitors:

Long leg (anode) to square pad.

•Diodes:

Striped leg (cathode) to square pad.

•ICs:

Square pad indicates pin 1.

Schematic + BOM

R1 1M

R2 100

R3 62

R4 10M

R5 2 7

R6 2 7

R7 470

R8 1M

R9 1M

R10 5 1

R11 180R

R12 1M

R13 1M

R14 5 1

R15 330R

R16 6 8

R17 2 2

R18 6 8

R19 68

R20 2 2

R21 15

R22 10

R23 47

R24 91

R25 10

R26 10

R27 22

R28 22

C1 22n

C2 100n

C3 470p

C4 22n

C5 47n

C6 10n

C7 2n2

C8 10n

C9 10n

C10 1n

C11 1n

C12 10u elec

C13 10u elec

C14 10u elec

C15 100n

C16 100u elec

C17 100u elec

C18 100u elec

IC1 TL072

Q1-3 BS170

D1 9.1V zener

D2 1N4001

DRV 10 C

VOL 100 A

BASS 25 B

MID 25 B

TREB 25 B

The power and signal pads on the PCB conform

to the FuzzDog Direct Connection format, so

can be paired with the appropriate

daughterboard for quick and easy offboard

wiring. Check the separate daughterboard

document for details.

Be very careful when soldering the diodes and

transistors,. They’re very sensitive to heat. You

should use some kind of heat sink (crocodile

clip or reverse action tweezers) on each leg as

you solder them. eep exposure to heat to a

minimum (under 2 seconds). Same goes for the

IC if you aren’t using a socket.

Snap the small metal tag off the pots so they

can be mounted flush in the box.

Positive (anode) legs of the electrolytic caps go

to the square pads.

Negative (cathode) legs of the diode goes to the

square pad.

You should solder all other board-mounted

components before you solder the pots. Once

they’re in place you’ll have no access to much of

the board. Make sure your pots all line up nicely.

The best way to do that is to solder a single pin

of each pot in place then melt and adjust if

necessary before soldering in the other two

pins. If your pots don’t have protective plastic

jackets ensure you leave a decent gap between

the pot body and the PCB otherwise you risk

shorting out the circuit.

Test the board!

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES will troubleshootin help

be offered if you have skipped this sta e. No exceptions.

Once you’ve finished the circuit it makes sense to test is before starting on the switch and

LED wiring. It’ll cut down troubleshooting time in the long run. If the circuit works at this

stage, but it doesn’t once you wire up the switch - guess what? You’ve probably made a

mistake with the switch.

Solder some nice, long lengths of wire to the board connections for 9V, GND, IN and OUT.

Connect IN and OUT to the jacks as shown. Connect all the GNDs together (twist them up

and add a small amount of solder to tack it). Connect the battery + lead to the 9V wire,

same method. Plug in. Go!

If it works, carry on and do your switch wiring. If not... aw man. At least you know the

problem is with the circuit. Find out why, get it working, THEN worry about the switch etc.

BATTERY

IN OUT

Your nice, new circuit board

INCLUDING WIRED POTS!!!!

IN 9V GND OUT

Wiring shown above will disconnect the battery when you remove the jack plug

from the input, and also when a DC plug is inserted.

The Board GND connections don’t all have to directly attach to the board. You

can run a couple of wires from the DC connector, one to the board, another to

the IN jack, then daisy chain that over to the OUT jack.

It doesn’t matter how they all connect, as long as they do.

This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be Tip

Negative / Sleeve Positive. That’s the same as your standard pedals (Boss etc),

and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.

BOARD

OUT

BOARD

GND

BOARD

GND

BOARD

GND

BOARD

INPUT

BATTERY

OUT

BOARD

GND

BOARD

Wire it up (if using a daughterboard please refer to the relevant document)

This template is a rough guide only. You should ensure correct marking of your

enclosure before drilling. You use this template at your own risk.

Pedal Parts Ltd can accept no responsibility for incorrect drilling of enclosures.

FuzzDog.co.uk

Drillin template

Hammond 1590B

60 x 111 x 31mm

It’s a ood idea to drill the pot and

to le switch holes 1mm bi er if

you’re board-mountin them.

Wi le room = ood!

Recommended drill sizes:

Pots 7mm

Jacks 10mm

Footswitch 12mm

DC Socket 12mm

27mm

35mm

17.5mm

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