FuzzDog Tube Screamer v4.0 Bedienungsanleitung

Tub Scr am r

v4.0

Tube Screamer

TS808 / TS9

No reproduction permitted without the express written

Schematic + BOM

R1 1

R2 510

R3 10

R5 10

R6 4 7

R7 51

R8 1

R9 10

R10 10

R11 220R

R12 510

R13 10 (100 )

R14 10

R15 100R (470R)

R16 10

R17 1

R18 1

R22 1M

RLED 1 - 4 7

C1 22n

C2 1u

C3 47n

C4 47p

C5 .22u tant

C6 See bass mod

C7 47u (4.7u)

C8 1u

C9 .22u tant

C10 100n

C11 10u

C12 100u

C13 See bass mod

IC 4558

Q1,2 2N3904

D1,2 1N4148

D3 Jumper*

D4 1N4001

TONE 20 W***

DRIVE 500 A

LEVEL 100 A

S1 SPDT**

Parts listed are for the TS808 version.

For TS9 substitute parts in blue.

*Optional extra diode spot for asymetrical clipping. See overleaf.

**Optional switch for More Bass mods - see overleaf.

***The Tone pot on the original is a special W-taper. 20 B will work fine.

The power and signal pads on the

PCB conform to the FuzzDog Direct

Connection format, so can be paired

with the appropriate daughterboard

for quick and easy offboard wiring.

Check the separate daughterboard

document for details.

Be very careful when soldering the

transistors and diodes. They’re very

sensitive to heat. You should use

some kind of heat sink (crocodile clip

or reverse action tweezers) on each

leg as you solder them. eep

exposure to heat to a minimum

(under 2 seconds). Use a socket for

IC1, or be super careful.

Snap the small metal tag off the pots so they can be mounted flush in the box.

Positive (anode) legs of the electrolytic caps go to the square pads. C7 and C12 can be laid flat as

shown in the cover image to give you extra clearance in the enclosure.

Negative (cathode) legs of the diodes go to the square pads.

You should solder all other board-mounted components before you solder the pots. Once they’re in

place you’ll have no access to much of the board. Make sure your pots all line up nicely. The best

way to do that is to solder a single pin of each pot in place then melt and adjust if necessary before

soldering in the other two pins. If your pots don’t have protective plastic jackets ensure you leave a

decent gap between the pot body and the PCB otherwise you risk shorting out the circuit.

If you aren’t using the optional More Bass switch there’s no need to do anything with the pads for

S1. Ignore them.

There are two sets of pads for LEVEL and DRIVE. This gives you the option to place these controls

further down the enclosure if you’re using the More Bass switch. If not, use the top ones to get the

best control spacing.

More Bass mods

C6 and C13 are extra caps for the More Bass mod. Use one cap spot along with a SPDT ON-ON

switch for a single extra bass setting. If you use C6, the extra bass will be engaged when the

switch is up. Use C13 for extra bass in the down position.

For two extra settings use both cap spots and a SPDT ON-

OFF-ON switch.

Recommended values are 47n for much more bass, 22n for a

little more bass, or use both if you’re going for two settings.

Clipping

D3 is included so you can easily add asymetrical clipping

which changes the nature of the tone. If you want this, just

put a 1N4148 in D3 instead of a jumper.

Test the board!

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES will troubl shooting h lp b

off r d if you hav skipp d this stag . No xc ptions.

Once you’ve finished the circuit it makes sense to test is before starting on

the switch and LED wiring. It’ll cut down troubleshooting time in the long run.

If the circuit works at this stage, but it doesn’t once you wire up the switch -

guess what? You’ve probably made a mistake with the switch.

Solder some nice, long lengths of wire to the board connections for 9V, GND,

IN and OUT. Connect IN and OUT to the jacks as shown. Connect all the GNDs

together (twist them up and add a small amount of solder to tack it). Connect

the battery + lead to the 9V wire, same method. Plug in. Go!

If it works, crack on and do your switch wiring. If not... aw man. At least you

know the problem is with the circuit. Find out why, get it working, THEN worry

about the switch etc.

BATTERY

IN OUT

Your nice, new circuit board

INCLUDING WIRED POTS!!!!

IN 9V GND OUT

Wire it up

Wiring shown above will disconnect the battery when you remove the jack plug

from the input, and also when a DC plug is inserted.

The Board GND connections don’t all have to directly attach to the board. You

can run a couple of wires from the DC connector, one to the board, another to

the IN jack, then daisy chain that over to the OUT jack.

It doesn’t matter how they all connect, as long as they do.

This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be Tip

Negative / Sleeve Positive. That’s the same as your standard pedals (Boss etc),

and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.

P dalParts.co.uk

BOARD

OUT

BOARD

GND

BOARD

GND

BOARD

GND

BOARD

INPUT

BATTERY

OUT

BOARD

GND

BOARD

LED+

This template is a rough guide only. You should ensure correct marking of your

enclosure before drilling. You use this template at your own risk.

Pedal Parts Ltd can accept no responsibility for incorrect drilling of enclosures.

P dalParts.co.uk

Drilling t mplat

No Switch

Hammond 1590B

60 x 111 x 31mm

It’s a good id a to drill th

pot and toggl switch hol s

1mm bigg r if you’r

board-mounting th m.

Wiggl room = good!

R comm nd d drill siz s:

Pots 7mm

Jacks 10mm

Footswitch 12mm

DC Sock t 12mm

Toggl Switch 6mm

32mm

21mm

This template is a rough guide only. You should ensure correct marking of your

enclosure before drilling. You use this template at your own risk.

Pedal Parts Ltd can accept no responsibility for incorrect drilling of enclosures.

P dalParts.co.uk

Drilling t mplat

with Switch

Hammond 1590B

60 x 111 x 31mm

It’s a good id a to drill th

pot and toggl switch hol s

1mm bigg r if you’r

board-mounting th m.

Wiggl room = good!

R comm nd d drill siz s:

Pots 7mm

Jacks 10mm

Footswitch 12mm

DC Sock t 12mm

Toggl Switch 6mm

32mm

18mm

5mm

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