FuzzDog Gristleiser Bedienungsanleitung

Gristleiser

Filthy, dirty modulation fun

No reproduction permitted without the express written

Important notes

If you’re using ny of our footswitch d ughterbo rds,

DOWNLOAD THE DAUGHTERBOARD DOCUMENT

•Download and read the appropriate build document for the daughterboard

as well as this one BEFORE you start.

•DO NOT solder the supplied Current Limiting Resistor (CLR) to the main

circuit board even if there is a place for it. This should be soldered to the

footswitch daughterboard.

POWER SUPPLY

Unless otherwise stated in this document this circuit is designed to be

powered with 9V DC.

COMPONENT SPECS

Unless otherwise stated in this document:

•Resistors should be 0.25W. You can use those with higher ratings but

check the physical size of them.

•Electrolytics caps should be at least 25V for 9V circuits, 35V for 18V

circuits. Again, check physical size if using higher ratings.

LAYOUT CONVENTIONS

Unless otherwise stated in this document, the following are used:

•Electrolytic c p citors:

Long leg (anode) to square pad.

•Diodes:

Striped leg (cathode) to square pad.

•ICs:

Square pad indicates pin 1.

Schematic + BOM

R1 47K

R2 100K

R3 10K

R4 10K

R5 1M

R6 47K

R7 47K

R8 100K

R9 47K

R10 470K

R11 470R

R12 56K

R13 CLR (2K2)

R15 10K

R16 18K

R17 47K

R18 180K

R19 10K

R20 18K

R21 6K8

R22 4K7

R23 27K

R24 47K

R25 47K

R26 180K

R27 47K

R28 47K

C1 100n

C2 6n8

C3 6n8

C4 10n

C5 100n

C6 470n

C7 2n2

C8 100u elec

C9 100u elec

C10 10u elec

C11 10u elec

Q1 2N3819*

Q2 2N3906

Q3 2N3904

IC1 7660S

IC2 4558

IC3 TL074

D1-2 1N4148**

Rate Indicator LED

BIAS 100KB

DEPTH 10KB

LEVEL 100KB

SPEED 10KA

SHAPE 100K TRIM

OST 100K TRIM

SW1 3P4T ROTARY

SW2 DPDT ON-ON

*We’ve tried other FETs and

they all worked absolutely fine -

2N5457, 201, 113.

Check your pinout - see later in

the document.

**Originally 1N34A but the

circuit works much better with

1N4148.

The power and signal pads on the PCB conform to

the FuzzDog Direct Connection format, so can be

paired with the appropriate daughterboard for

quick and easy offboard wiring.

Be very careful when soldering the transistors and

diodes. They’re very sensitive to heat. You should

use some kind of heat sink (crocodile clip or

reverse action tweezers) on each leg as you solder

them. Keep exposure to heat to a minimum (under

2 seconds).

Be very careful when bending the legs of the

germanium diodes in D07 cases. The glass casing

is very brittle where the leg enters it. You should

grip the leg with some fine needle-nosed pliers

pushed right against the glass body, then bend the

leg with your fingers. The pliers will take the strain

away from the body.

The cathode (striped end) of the diodes go into the

square pads. The anode (long leg) of electrolytic

capacitors go into the square pads.

You should get all the components in the top side

of the board before soldering in the pots - once

they’re in place you’ll have no access to some of

the components without bending them out of the

way - you can only do that so many times before

the legs snap.

As the rotary is much deeper than the pots you

should line everything up carefully before

soldering. Vertical mount pot pins will only just

reach the PCB when flush with the switch. Use the

enclosure as a guide.

The rotary switch has a small plastic locator tab on

the top side - line this up with the symbol on the

pcb. It should be right next to the edge of the PCB.

If your rotary switch has more than four positions

(three clicks) when you turn it, you’ll have to adjust

it. Take off the nut and anti-vibration washer and

you’ll see another washer with a locator tab which

is inserted into a hole in the switch body. Move that

locator tab into the third hole from the left. You

should now only have four positions on your turn.

FETS

The PCB has an extra pad next to Q1 to allow FETs

with different pinouts to be used. If you’re going for

something with standard DSG pinout, such as 201

or 2N5457, they should be inserted exactly as

indicated on the screen print. 2N3819 have a SGD

pinout, so imagine you’re inserting it into the

normal pads, then move it across one pad so the

right hand pin goes into the extra pad marked D.

<< “Norm l”

2N3819 >>

Test the board!

Check the relev nt d ughterbo rd document for more

info before you undert ke this st ge.

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES will troubleshooting help

be offered if you h ve skipped this st ge. No exceptions.

Once you’ve finished the circuit it makes sense to test is before starting on the switch and LED

wiring. It’ll cut down troubleshooting time in the long run. If the circuit works at this stage, but it

doesn’t once you wire up the switch - guess what? You’ve probably made a mistake with the switch.

Solder some nice, long lengths of wire to the board connections for 9V, GND, IN and OUT. Connect

IN and OUT to the jacks as shown. Connect all the GNDs together (twist them up and add a small

amount of solder to tack it). Connect the battery + lead to the 9V wire, same method. Plug in. Go!

If you’re using a ribbon cable you can tack the wires to the ends of that. It’s a lot easier to take them

off there than it is do desolder wires from the PCB pads.

If it works, carry on and do your switch wiring. If not... aw man. At least you know the problem is

with the circuit. Find out why, get it working, THEN worry about the switch etc.

Your completed circuit bo rd

including pots

SETTING UP

You have two trimmers to set. Pin 3 of the depth pot is the best place to attach your probe if

you’re using a scope.

SHAPE

This adjusts the shape of the triangle wave. If you have an oscilloscope now’s the time to

fire it up. Set the mode switch to triangle and adjust the trimmer until you get a nice

triangular waveform. If you don’t have a scope you’re going to have to trust your ears.

There are two methods. 1) Turn depth and rate up full and adjust until you have the

smoothest tone. 2) Turn depth up full and rate right down - adjust until you have even

up and down slopes.

OFFSET (OST)

This sets the centre of the LFO sweep. Again, a scope is your friend here - adjust this so the

centre of the waveform is at 0V. No scope, adjust by ear for the fullest sweep you can hear.

MAKING SENSE OF IT ALL...

This isn’t an exact-science effect. Everything is highly interactive so experimentation is the

watchword. You’ll find a sweet setting in one mode will do nothing in the next. Once you turn

the rotary switch you’ll find the Bias control will need tweaking to get the next mode

working as you want.

The toggle switch is to select VCA/VCF

modes. If you’re not sure what that is,

just flip the switch.

(if using a daughterboard please refer to the relevant document)

Wire it up - with battery

This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be

Tip Negative / Sleeve Positive. That’s the same as your standard pedals

(Boss etc), and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.

The BOARD GND connections don’t all have to connect to one point. They

can be daisy-chained around the circuit, using larger connection points

(such as jack socket lugs) for multiple connections. As long as they all

connect together in some way.

PedalParts.c .uk

BOARD

OUT

BOARD

GND

BOARD

GND

BOARD

GND

BOARD

INPUT

BATTERY

OUT

BOARD

GND

BOARD

LED+

This template is a rough guide only. You should ensure correct marking of your

enclosure before drilling. You use this template at your own risk.

Pedal Parts Ltd can accept no responsibility for incorrect drilling of enclosures.

FuzzD g.c .uk

Drilling template

Hamm nd 1590BB

Rec mmended drill sizes:

P ts 7mm

Jacks 10mm

F tswitch 12mm

DC S cket 12mm

R tary Switch 10mm

T ggle Switch 6mm

22mm

5mm

35mm

30mm

18mm

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